There are surprisingly few posts on this forum concerning rust repair. I just repaired 7 spots on my roof and the bottom of three doors on my '95 Subaru.

My technique is as follows:

 

1. Grind off paint and rust with the 3M black wheel for drills.

2. Naval jelly

3. Rust converter [Dupli color spray can]

4. Precoat spray can- 2 coats

5. Touch up spray can-4 coats [Automotivetouchup]

6. Lacquer

 

If there is penetration, then I cut out enough so that I can get behind the panel with Navel jelly and Rust converter. I find that if there's penetration and I don't get behind the panel, then failure is certain. Of course, this is followed by fiberglass, Bondo, and then steps 4-6.

 

I think that this works most of the time, but there are still failures. Any comments or different ways of doing it. If there is only surface rust. I appreciate that only steps 4-6 are required, but with a 15 year old car, there is often deep rust by the time the paint bubbles.

Good post and comments.

 

I think you'll see more comments about rust repair in the old gen forum and some in the shop talk forum.

I take the rust down to the metal if possible. I talked to a paint supplier that deal with custom mixes for any car. They give out great advice http://www.paintscratch.com/

 

They agreed that the Dupli-color rust converter is an excelant product.

 

I take it down as far as i can. I spray three coats as per instructions, and let it sit for 24 hours before I apply any bondo.

 

When Blu had his rust i gournd down all the rust and left a good size hole. I use the Rust converter, filled the hole, then painted with three cots of Dupli-color primer, wet sand, 4 coats of paint with wet sanding, then 2 coats of top coat, with wet sanding.

 

Blu was easy His hole was under the vinyl body tape so I did not have to paint aside from primer.

 

On the Justy i look for natural body panel breaks to sand and paint to.

 

nipper

 

nipper