a mechanic worked on my 2.2, he changed one head and now the car won't start. It ran before this, just overheated whenver it felt like it. Any ideas on what would be causing the car to not start??? Thank you

Welcome! I kinda think the answer is in your statement:

 

It ran before this . . . a mechanic worked on my 2.2 . . . now the car won't start.

 

Sounds like something your mechanic did--or didn't. Could be any number of things, maybe as simple as a sensor not plugged in or the timing belt put on incorrectly, but I'd start by having him go back over his work.

 

Good luck.

a mechanic worked on my 2.2, he changed one head and now the car won't start. It ran before this, just overheated whenver it felt like it. Any ideas on what would be causing the car to not start??? Thank you

 

which side head??

I am running into a problem with getting more info on what he did (he is having personal problems, hard to get ahold of him). I do know that he has rechecked everything that he did, he said he rechecked the timing, and has searched the manual and online trying to see what could be going on. I will see if I can get more info. We really need the car back, and I don't know if he is going to be able to get it done. Thank you for any help you can give.

We've got to have more to go on than just "2.2"! What year/model? What kind of transmission? Mileage? What happens when it "won't start?" Does the engine turn over but not fire off? What sounds do you hear if any?

He probably lined the timing belt pullys up using the big arrows cast into the cam pullys. You need to use the small tic marks right out by the edge of the pully, and the tic mark on the reluctor tooth of the crank pully. Line the cams up to the notches in the rear t-belt cover, and the crank up to the cast arrow in the crank sensor boss. Common mistake.

 

Other option is if he swapped the drivers side head, and used a different cam pully. There's 2 different options for how the cam sensor reluctor teeth are on the back of the cam pully, and you need the right pully to go with the ECU.

My first thought is if the cam pulley had been dropped... If somebody dropped the other pulley that came on that head (or the one original to your engine for that matter) and popped off the ring on the front of the pulley, the timing mark may not be clocked properly to the cam gear. More specifically, the notch that engages the cam. If everything else has been checked out, I can't think of much that would keep you from starting at this point. Is the rest of the timing belt aligned right? Does the engine sound "normal" when cranking over, or does it sound labored, uneven?

Edited June 11, 201015 yr by 2.5GL
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still suspect the belt is not timed right?

He probably lined the timing belt pullys up using the big arrows cast into the cam pullys. You need to use the small tic marks right out by the edge of the pully, and the tic mark on the reluctor tooth of the crank pully. Line the cams up to the notches in the rear t-belt cover, and the crank up to the cast arrow in the crank sensor boss. Common mistake.

 

Other option is if he swapped the drivers side head, and used a different cam pully. There's 2 different options for how the cam sensor reluctor teeth are on the back of the cam pully, and you need the right pully to go with the ECU.

 

Thank you, I will run this info by him and see what he thinks.

still suspect the belt is not timed right?

 

this is the most common cause of a 'no start' after timing belt change or head gaskets.

 

check out the links in my sig below. the one with pics is especially good. check page 2 of that site.

 

with the center timing cover in place you cannot see if the crank sprocket is on the correct mark. if you remove the crank pulley bolt you can see the key way, it should be in the 6 o'clock position.

Please try and refrain from starting multiple posts on the same subject. I've moved all the replies from your other threads to this one. Please continue all discussions here.

 

Thanks

Well I printed all of the above (thank you for the info).

He checked and tried all.

Still no go.

Any more ideas or info?

Thank you.

Check for spark. I'm having the same issue, maybe we can help each other out.

he says spark is great. Says it will fire, and act like it might start, then stops turning over.

hate to say it, but it sounds like a timing issue

 

http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/TimingWaterPump.htm

Can someone please explain (in a way that someone who has never done this-I may go get the car and see if I can get it running) exactly how/what to do a head swap.

I don't think it makes a difference, but this is a right hand steer (mail route vehicle) car.

Thank you very much for the help.