I have no tools and want to spend as little as possible. I am an experienced mechanic.

 

Can you tell me the sizes of the crank pully bolt?

 

I am assuming 10, 12, 14 17 and 19 for everything else.

 

Am I going to need a balancer puller to get off the pully?

 

Is it standard opperating proceedure to do teh water pump at teh same time as the timing belt?

What year, what engine, how many miles, auto or manual?

Hi,

1)All chances are your crankshaft pulley bolt head size is the same as on most Legacies (and as on mine): 22 mm

2) You dont need a puller, the crank pulley will practically fall in your hands when the bolt is removed.

3) People use different methods to immobilize the pulley while they remove the pulley bolt. I think mine is cheap and very efficient. I bought a chain wise grip for around 20$ Can and used it to remove the crank pulley as well as the cam pulleys. The beauty of this tool aside is low cost is that the relatively short handle is easily made to catch on nearby immovable parts and thus permits you to work alone with both hands free.

The only caveat is you have to use something to protect the pulleys and you should use just enough clamping force to hold the pulleys steady. I used my good old judgment and everything went fine. I used part of an old drive belt to protect the crankd pulley and part of the old timing belt to protect the cam pulleys.

4) I think you're about right for the rest of the sockets sizes.

5) Most people here, and me included, think that replacing the water pump is cheap insuraqnce. You should also replace the crank and cam seals and reseal the oil pump (an O ring + sealing compound around where the pump mates with the engine block)

Hope that helps and good luck!

Just saw your alias "WRX". Maybe some of what i wrote does not apply. Others will set things straight if need be.

The Haynes manual says anaerobic sealant for the oil pump, are there any specific recommendations eg Loctite ###

subaru recommends loctite ultra-gray for resealing the oil pump.

 

an alternative method to immobilize the crank is to put the car in 5th (if it is manual), have someone step hard on the brakes, and break it free.

ok....I do have a question about the sealant of the oil pump. I've been trying to get my hands on the three bond or whatever subaru uses. I don't think the ultra grey stuff is anerobic. I have some stuff that is.....but I'm not sure if it's exactly what I want. The damn sealant is holding me up from doing the t-belt.

I have used permatex anerobic gasket maker with excellent results. I have also used the permatex ultra-black with equally good results. I have been too cheap to pay $10 a tube for the ultra-grey, since ultra-black has always performed flawlessly for me. YMMV

 

AFAIK ultra-grey is not anerobic.

 

Three bond 1280B is available under Subaru# S0A5499100. AKAIK this is used for the H6 camcase.

 

Three bond 1215 is available under Subaru# SOA635019. I think this is used everywhere else three bond is called for.

woops

 

its a 92 2.2 legacy 5speed 4x4 (not that it matters too much). hte bolt does look to be about the same as my ea81t (that was the wrx want to be. I used to be on the older gen site. I built a fulltime5 speed pushrod turbo dl wagon taht would destroy everything off the line in low range for the first 5o feet)

 

I measured the bolt before I left and you are right.

 

my favorite trick was to put the breaker bar between the ground and the skid plate and put the socket on the nut and .......................... turn the key. hte starter has way more torque than my little arms. check rotation directionfirst!!!!

 

anyway, thanks or the advice. I ahve no ac, so it looks to be a peice of cake. I also have no money and because it looks easy, I will skip the water pump and seals for now (well, maybe i will do the crank seal) and do them wehn I ahve more cash. I also need to do front drive shafts and my y pipe is leaking, so a little at a time.

When you do the cam seals, the cam sprockets on the 2.2 are a PITA without the correct tool. It can be done with a chain wrench and a piece of old timing belt, but be very careful not to break the rear timing covers. You can probably build a tool.

 

Make sure you properly torque the crank pulley bolt with some blue (medium) loctite when you put it back together.

first posted it to the wrong thread.

 

from tsb #somethingsomething-something. if anyone needs it, i can look it up...

 

Permatex anarobic sealant seems to be correct. Web site is

http://www.permatex.com/heavy_duty/Transmissions.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no=51813

What do you think Josh?

Forgot to attach the product bulletin etc sorry. Ian

Sorry the're two big to attach, you can find thewm on the Permatex website anyway

I finally got a hold of someone at a few dealerships yesterday and they confirmed what theotherskip posted.... three bond part # 004403007

 

BTW....excellent info in that scan....I think I'll be swiping it

Josh,

 

Did you buy any of that three bond yet? I am curious about the size of the container.

 

From http://www.subaruparts.com

 

004403007 Super Three Bond 1215 $20.03

SOA635019 Super Three Bond 1215 $5.00

 

I am guessing the only difference is the size of the container, presuming that the two are actually the same otherwise.

i have to say i've been real pleased with the permatex ultragray. easy to find and after 15k miles, i don't see any leaks anywhere - oil pump, oil pan, etc. i think you can use them interchangeably.

I decided to go with the ultra grey. It's easy to find and it's like 5 bucks

 

It says on that sheet it's comparable, so that's good enough for me.

Wow, $5. Where at? It's $10 at my local Napa for ultra-grey, $5 for ultra-black.

 

FWIW I have never had a leak with ultra-black or the anerobic, but the blue RTV seems to be hit or miss. I won't use the blue stuff on my own cars.

 

A little OT, paid $23 for a bottle of blue loctite at Napa a couple of days ago. Ouch!

i got it at pep boys and autozone. around $5. i've been very down on napa. they just rebrand stuff with a napa logo and charge a lot more. i think they are more around for independent mechanics who need delivery of parts and just pass the cost on to the customer...

I will get it at autozone next time, though I generally try and avoid them as I have had terrible luck with their junk parts. Napa parts are slightly better. I live in the middle of nowhere, and napa is two minutes away. Autozone, advance auto, and a private auto parts store are about 30 minutes away. Many times napa is too convenient and I probably pay a premium.

While browsing my favorite tool catalog that came in the mail today I found this.

 

It looks like it might work great for holding those pesky 2.2l cam sprockets when replacing the cam seals. Pretty cheap too.

 

Universal Cam Adjuster

 

It would make a good addition to my toolbox.

Do you think this tool can also be used, in the same way as the factory one, to hold the crank pulley? I see they do sell a tool specifically for holding the pulley, with a set of pegs in several sizes, but it costs more.

I didn't do my cam seals when I did my 2.2 timing belt (I should have, one is leaking now ), but couldn't you just leave whatever construct you used to keep the engine still to remove the crank pulley, in place and with the timing belt still on and tense, remove the nuts for the cam sprockets? Then to reinstall them, put the belt back on and put some tension on it, and retighten the nuts?

Originally posted by avk

Do you think this tool can also be used, in the same way as the factory one, to hold the crank pulley? I see they do sell a tool specifically for holding the pulley, with a set of pegs in several sizes, but it costs more.

 

I honestly do not know. I have been using a chain wrench with old belts to protect the pulley.