WRX1AB

i stand corrected. its been a while since i looked in the mods section. nice work.

ej wont fit, no chance forget it. its easier to weld the driveshafts than to move the body rails. youd be better off selling the 81t to an aircraft guy (they pay bank!) and buying a legacy. not more reliable though, more seals, more belts... a good motor, but a water pump takes a lot more time than 15 mins and a lot more cash too. all motor swaps are a pain, all custom work is worse. THe only problem with the 81 t into an 81 is plumbing and wiring, and most of that is easy. you could always go the easy rout and leave the 4 speed mounting is a no brainer. Mine was a pain beacuase I really like that dual range locking middle diff all wheel drive 5 speed with posi, and the bell hosueings are exact. hell, thats a better box that what I ahve in my legacy which si 3 open difs and no low range. so why the 89 box? low range, open middle diff, hand brake on (fronts) is a very cool trick. and no-one expects the 140 (0r 95) horse rear wheel smoking donut making wagon....no-body. I posted pics when i did it, dont know where they are now.

if you do pull the motor, take the ignition retard system from the driver side fender. its a pass through box for the distributor and the ig mod, and plugs into the knock sensor.

maybe not 140, but it was nice, and I did up the boost, but didnt move the maf and didnt get around to changing the manifold blow off valve so it ran rich as it dumped pressure. I got a plug for it and a variable blow off but never put it on. THe 89 turbo was much larger than the 84, my guess is it got the same power as an ea82t whatever that is (maybe a little more with the wastegate adjuster) but if you like, i stand corrected. THe 82 dl has much smaller diameter drive shafts and cv's than the 89 xt. there was no way of converting over no matter what combnation of shafts and cv's. there are others who shortened the fronts to fit this gearbox htat i found out about after i did it. I had to take the hubs and then shorten teh shafts by an inch. hte ea82s are about 2 inchs wider than the 81's. there is no way in hell the ej22 is going to fit into an 79-84 wagon or hatch or sedan, the unibody rails are far too close, but will fit in an ea82 vehivle (hence the 2 inches wider to fit the overhead cam motor) thats why there are no early 80's subes with over head cam. hte ej22 is only marginaly wider than the ea82, but both are much wider than teh ea81.

this may sound stupid but have you squirted wwd40 or berrymans at the intake whilst it is running? it sounds like a possible super fat vaccume leak, ut I know I am going to getted panned for suggesting it. are all the hoses on corrctly? did the problem start suddenly or has it been gradualyl getting worse? I oce has an escort that had a huge egr pipe missing after I did a motor swap (i was 15) and it ran great above 2k, but hardly at all below and would iddle real y rough. I also had a vanagon do the same thing, it turned out to be a throttle possition seonsor AND a burned wire on the muffler (hte harness ran around the back of the motor) if you squire those things and the revs change then perhaps you have a leak, but it sounds lore like a sensing or engine management issue.

......and thats why the timing belt never snapped! a great peice of enginerring. the funny part was that the ea82 had belts.... but more or less exaclty the same combustion chamber profile. I never got that one, what was the point? ever see an ea82 snap one belt but not the other and keep going, and THEN siesze? wierd! Yes its either cam, front main or oil pump. I live in the UK now so I am trying to gert my dad to ship the parts over for me. they cost a fortune here as there aren't any 92's (let along ea81's or 2's save hte occasional brat on a farm) left in the UK. I am loathed to do repairs on it because its a rust bucket, but its what we have and we have no cash.

I did it, it was well worth the hassel. If you do it, go whole hog, get hte 89 xt gearbox, and rear end, get your front drive shafts shortened and go with the carrier bearing rearward driveshaft. get the rear control arms off hte xt too and bolt them more or less straight on. xt front hubs too, but thats a hassesl, but much better breatks. remember to take teh brain and all the wiring harness. I cut the injection harness out of the rest of the harness and had the motor as a stand alone circuit with a turbo timer. worked great! If I were to do it diferently i would consider the same parts in a hatch. I went full street so it was a little lowered and had 14's with yokham 215 60's on it and kybs all round and sway bars. it did unfortunatlry develope what looked like a head gasket and I took the heads off, replaced gaskets but it still did it. I even examined for cracks but none there, had heads pressure tested and they passed. It turne dout but it wasnt a head gasket that was causing all that water in the motor, it was a rotten intake manifold. you could tell because if you kept the boost pressure up hte water stopped leaking, but it was hard to drive like that all teh time. It was by far the most fun I have had with a subaru, no-body expected hte 140+horse wagon, and it handeles really well too. best trick with tehat gear box: hand brake on, middle diff open, gearbox in low, 7krpm, drop clutch. no-one expects that, or hte low range drage race.

survive me for 7 years. list of damage I tried to incure is too large: setting brakes on fire, jumping at burning man, 4 or five crashes, carrying WAY beyond the rated capacity, trying to get poshes to chace me on tight corners, all of this from an 82 dl wagon. I eventually wrote to subaru and got given the indiana jone of subaru driving award and a free test drive that I never took them up on.

I agree with q-man, but he did not SAY it yet. Best engine for reliability and low maintainance was the ea81t, VERY tough block, loads of extra webbing, and a particularly clever timing belt that consisted of a single cam doing the work for both banks and two gears that never ever ever slipped, stretched, creeped, softened in oil or snapped. all other sube motors after that one are whimpy pampered princesses! I wish i had found cheaper replacemnt parts for it but they were ALL in teh sky attathced to planes, which made them VERY EXPENsIVE AND RARE. It was WAY better than the ea82t which replaced it. OOOOPDS WRONG FORum! but to be fair, i like the ej22 except fo the annoying oil leaks at the front of it that I just cant be bothered to sort out just yet.

I will assume your foot is not doing this. does it ahve overdrive?

is the turn signal lens read or amber? here its amber, and as I recall in the US its red, but I could be on crack. if its yellow, give me a price and I will try to work somehting out. thanks for getting back to me! Richard

Hi, I am a long time subaru owner and board member, and I am wondering if there are any users in the UK besides me. Basically, does anyone know where I can get a tail light for a 92 legacy saloon (sedan). my poor car: last night I was slowing down for an intersection and the pedal went to the floor. my stainless steel brake lines are of course in the house, nice and warm, and after driving home with the gears and hand brake, its parked. I did manage to get some new(er) wings (fenders) for it at a scrapy in edinburgh, but they need some welding before they go in. It may be time to retire the legacy. bummer! I just did a cluth too! Anyway, a shout out to brian and shan and all the others from the Greater sf bay. Richard

Perhaps you problem isn't a weak clutch, but an overtight clutch cable or a sticking linkage? no, its been adjusted and after it gets adjusted it still slips. if the car is hot it does not slip in 5th or 4th at all but when it is cold it slips in 2nd. THe last clutch was the same too. that could be the cable, but it even slips when its been adjusted with endless freeplay. it must be the disk expanding or the pressure plate expanding (because I bet those organic materials dont expand much) and grabbing when its hot any idea about the clutch driven disk fitting on the input shaft? in other news I ordered a stainless set of brake hoses. not for the performance issues, they rust off here and then you fail MOT (inspection)

there was a model released in europe that may not have been released in the US until the wrx, its a 2.0 impreza turbo from the early 90's. its not a wrx or an sti. I was wondering if that one is interchangable. what about the driven disk? Do the trannys have the same nose shaft splines and is the disk about teh same thickness? it may be good to ahve a pucker inside it, as long as its all mostly interchangeable except the pressure plate, althought I never liked this pressure plate, it just never grabbed and now its slipping again. my frankenstien 82 dl with the ea81t in it could always overcome its clutch and my 2.2 legacy is more or less the same. thanks

I have a 92 legacy in the UK. I just replaced hte driven disk (I know, I am super cheap but I can take them out in 5 hours without droppijng the tranny out) and the disk is wasted (1 leaner and lots of very fast, and I mean VERY fast trips on winding scotish roads) so I am bidding on some clutches on ebay> I see some trurbo and non turbo and I have been told that legacy and impreza clutches interchange, but what about the non turbo? can I put an impreza turbo clutch on my non turbo 2.2 legacy? there are some cheap impreza turbo clutches at thae moment. I got burned by a subaru dish flywheel deapth problem wehn I put an ea81t onto an ea82t xt gearbox so if you have dish dimension information, that would be great. THanks RIchard ps hey brian and shanan.

brain, you need two of those things in there, there should be enough room

sould be on this site

have no ramps, not jack, no air tools, no clutch alignment tool, and had a burned out clutch. 5 hours? here is how. 0 get car in air. I backed onto a curb (step) and went back a foot. then I launched the car at two spare wheels laying flat on the ground in front of the front wheels, (had to take a run up coz the clutch was wasted). wheels are good becuase the tires stope them from slipping. my valient can shove my ramps into teh back wall of my garage, but thats another story. Now all four wheels are in the air (but safelt on something!) we can take it all appart. watch closely! 1 take off y pipe 2 take off started (discon batery first) 3 unbolt pressure plate through starter hole 4 take off shifter linkage 6 drop carrier bearing or whole rear rear u joint if you have an unitereupted drive shaft 7 take off dog bone from fire wall to tranny. 8 drop some but not all of the tranny mount. if you have somthing to prop the tranny up, use it. THis will depend entirely on your model. the legacy has a good front brace that should be lft on. I thing the ea 81 has just one, but you can get away with just removing the rubber isolators. 9 unbolt bell housing and slide gearbox back. if you have some extra long bolts, you can put them in the top holes to help put it all back later, but I didnt have any. You should be able to get about 5-6 inches of gap depending on model. legacy has more. 10 slide out clutch disk, toss it, put new one on end of tranny input shaft. if needed, do pressure plate and bearings too. I am not keeping the legacy too much longer and I am broke, so it was just the driven disk. 11 slide on tranny close, leave about 3 inches 12 put pressure plate bolts on finger tight. dont drop them! 13 bolt tranny all the way on, leave the starter off 14 through the starter hole tighten all 6 pressure plate bolts. you will need a deep 12 mm socket on 3/8 drive. I used a wrench and a 1/2 drive, but I got it tight. it helps to ahve a breaker on the crank bolt. 16 -25 put it all back together (you don't need me to go through all that do you? we are over the hump now!!!) OK the trick is the pressure plate gets tightened last so there are no alighnment issues. you do not have to take off the front drive shafts, there is enough play in the DOJ and the cv joint. no need to take off the clutch cable. I learned this trick from doing my valient which has entirely hte wrong flywheel and cluth and gearbox for a '63, and it all has to be assembled after it is in place. luckily there is a huge inspection hole under the valiant. The sube has the starter hole. I did this on my ea81 wagon 5 years ago and managed to get off hte disk, plate, all the bearings, and the fly wheel so I could do a rear main seal. I just did it on my 92 legacy so this is aplicable on 79 through on up to I imagine 2000 plus. this time I only did the disk beucase I could only afford the disk. it took me 3 hours with air tools jacks and ramps to do the ea 81 four years ago, and 5 hours this week. it would ahve been faster this week but my tool box sucks and I dropped a 12 mm into the bell houseing. I recon a fast pair of guys could do it in 1 hour with air tools. Anyway, I have done it now, and its all good. I am sure if I had wanted to I could have done the standard operating proceedure clutch job (bearings, seals, disk, pressure plate, machining etc.) because there is more room in the legacy than in the ea81. A shop quoted me $500 for a clutch on the legacy. I had to laugh. ANy questions?? I should have taken photos but I was in a rush and my hands were FILTHY! Chao Richard

I lived in the SF bay area, but moved to england to finish my chemical engineering degree. my ea81 started out as a DL wagon and ended up as an EA81T with hte rx ea82t tranny (hi low range locking middle diff five speed) so I had to cut the driveshafts and weld them in the front to fit it all in.... SFshan has that cars internals. Thanks for all your klind words!

I have no ramps, not jack, no air tools, no clutch alignment tool, and had a burned out clutch. 5 hours? here is how. 0 get car in air. I backed onto a curb (step) and went back a foot. then I launched the car at two spare wheels laying flat on the ground in front of the front wheels, (had to take a run up coz the clutch was wasted). wheels are good becuase the tires stope them from slipping. my valient can shove my ramps into teh back wall of my garage, but thats another story. Now all four wheels are in the air (but safelt on something!) we can take it all appart. watch closely! 1 take off y pipe 2 take off started (discon batery first) 3 unbolt pressure plate through starter hole 4 take off shifter linkage 6 drop carrier bearing or whole rear rear u joint if you have an unitereupted drive shaft 7 take off dog bone from fire wall to tranny. 8 drop some but not all of the tranny mount. if you have somthing to prop the tranny up, use it. THis will depend entirely on your model. the legacy has a good front brace that should be lft on. I thing the ea 81 has just one, but you can get away with just removing the rubber isolators. 9 unbolt bell housing and slide gearbox back. if you have some extra long bolts, you can put them in the top holes to help put it all back later, but I didnt have any. You should be able to get about 5-6 inches of gap depending on model. legacy has more. 10 slide out clutch disk, toss it, put new one on end of tranny input shaft. if needed, do pressure plate and bearings too. I am not keeping the legacy too much longer and I am broke, so it was just the driven disk. 11 slide on tranny close, leave about 3 inches 12 put pressure plate bolts on finger tight. dont drop them! 13 bolt tranny all the way on, leave the starter off 14 through the starter hole tighten all 6 pressure plate bolts. you will need a deep 12 mm socket on 3/8 drive. I used a wrench and a 1/2 drive, but I got it tight. it helps to ahve a breaker on the crank bolt. 16 -25 put it all back together (you don't need me to go through all that do you? we are over the hump now!!!) OK the trick is the pressure plate gets tightened last so there are no alighnment issues. you do not have to take off the front drive shafts, there is enough play in the DOJ and the cv joint. no need to take off the clutch cable. I learned this trick from doing my valient which has entirely hte wrong flywheel and cluth and gearbox for a '63, and it all has to be assembled after it is in place. luckily there is a huge inspection hole under the valiant. The sube has the starter hole. I did this on my ea81 wagon 5 years ago and managed to get off hte disk, plate, all the bearings, and the fly wheel so I could do a rear main seal. I just did it on my 92 legacy so this is aplicable on 79 through on up to I imagine 2000 plus. this time I only did the disk beucase I could only afford the disk. it took me 3 hours with air tools jacks and ramps to do the ea 81 four years ago, and 5 hours this week. it would ahve been faster this week but my tool box sucks and I dropped a 12 mm into the bell houseing. I recon a fast pair of guys could do it in 1 hour with air tools. Anyway, I have done it now, and its all good. I am sure if I had wanted to I could have done the standard operating proceedure clutch job (bearings, seals, disk, pressure plate, machining etc.) because there is more room in the legacy than in the ea81. A shop quoted me $500 for a clutch on the legacy. I had to laugh. ANy questions?? I should have taken photos but I was in a rush and my hands were FILTHY! Chao Richard

it got cold tonight and the roof closed. I think its the grease. how do I got to this board? if it were my 63 valient i would tear into it but the wife likes this car and wants it to be kept nice.

maybe you need to sacrifice a nore expensive socket! i never met one I could not get off. good job I am not a thief

probably some sort of high swirl venturii air passage around the injector nossle

Hey, where is this hand crank? I am in the UK now, and I finaly got a legacy, and the roof is open, and IT IS ZGOING TO RAIN JUST BECAUSE IT IS ENGLAND! anyway, I am despirate, teh thing has been intermittant for a while, but now its stuck wide open and I have no idea where the hand crank is or where this circuit board is, but if I don't get this thing closed soon, I think its going to by buy buy moldy rusty car! any suggestions, please help!! email me at richard-cl@e-d-a.com if you can point me in the right direction. 91 legacy, glass roof. by the way, sometimes it leaks and sometimes it doesn't whats that all about??

pretty colors. I think you need two of those saab units, there looks like there is enough room. have you thought about a deflector to keep hot engine air off the intercooler and a hood scoop to deflect cold air in? Hey, where the hell does the spare wheel go??????