suburpy

Well a clean up of all connectors and grounds, diconnected battery for a few hours, cleaned ECU circuit board and Crankshaft sensor and now the only code i am getting is 35 which is purge control solenoid valve, given the mess in that side of the car it's no surprise that is the problem, can I use a purge control valve from a same era rex but an sti?

here is a photo of the current wastegate solenoid setup. I think the car was in an accident and it was not setup properly during repair

Thats a good suggestion to check the grounds. I noticed three ground points in the engine bay which i cleaned up, is there any particular ground points related to the ECU i should check ? inside the car?

in regards to the 45 and 44 i noticed the waste gate solenoid has three vacuum hoses, the bottom one is not connected to anything and I presume that this not being connected is what is causing this code. My question is what should it connect too?

Hi All been awhile since I posted here, sold my ea81 wagon and bought a GF8 1994 WRX wagon (aussie model). I had some issue with the altenator light coming on so got a new one and that is now fine. In the process discovered the previous owner had removed the check engine light globe behind the dash. Now the CEL is staying on and I am getting five codes and would like some help with ideas to fix them Code 45 - Pressure sensor - was going to remove and clean solenoid with a bit of carby cleaner? Code 44 Turbo charging pressure control output signal )wastegate solenoid? - again a carby cleaner? Code 42 - Idle Switch - should I remove and clean it and clean uop throttle body Code 12 - starter signal - I replaced the main relay up under the dashboard as the previous owner had it in the car, apparently a know issue with this model Code 11- Crankshaft Position Sensor - pulled it and it has some physical damage amd ap[pear to be out of resistance specs Finally and the wierdest one Code 38 - ATCMM signal - i think this is to do with tourque control for automatics? This car is manual. This leads me to question wether the ECU is stuffed or someone tried to remap it and stuffed it. Happy to go through and check all these things but have a feeling they will still be in there when i put it all back togeteher and it will be ECU related - any comments thoughts welcome

Well you can not adjust the alignment on rear ea81 very much at all, using this method could only get it to move about 1mm at most so still got 9mm toe out! Replaced the rear control arm and bush as well, so that really only leaves the torsion tube or trailing link as culprits??, not that keen on replacing the whole torsion cross member atm. The next best bet is I am going to a chassis alignment place to see what the go is, has anyone here had experience fixing such a bad rear wheel alignment ?

Of course 1983 ea81 4wd wagon you guys call it a GL model, here its a touring wagon. The ones with the high roof at the back.

I have just been in to take the old girl to get a heap of suspension work done before a 1600km trip to the outback. I have over the years replaced all the front bushes, inner and outer tie-rod ends, balljoints, shockers, etc, etc. It drives sweet.... except it has a constant off centre wheel. My toe and camber on the front are well within specs, but when they put it onto the wheel alignment machine the rear drivers side has a toe out of + 10.5mm, the car feels like I am driving a crab. I understand this is non adjustable but what would cause such a massive issue (the passenger side is + 1.6mm). Surely a worn bush wouldnt cause this much difference, do I need to replace a control arm, it doesnt look bent but its hard to tell by eye. The rear is in pretty good nick generally new shocks, rear discs, new bearings about 20,000km ago. I did get bogged recently amnd heard a big bang under the car and came otu the other side and I had gone over a pretty big log, thinking I damaged the arm then? any thoughts on repair appreciated.

Its just my opinion but the ea81 is a really f***n reliable engine - ************ it is used regularly for light aviation duties. But that's irrelevant - Ice Racing !!!! Sick Man - love to have a black and gold trim ea81 turbo for that

Hey all Well I got a strange request a few months ago from a couple that approached me at a supermarketto use the soob in their wedding, it suited the 'surfie' theme they wanted. The big day arrived and the soob looked smick had to share some photos. Ones even got the owner in it:banana:

dude you can get your white steel wheels crhomed up - they look real good - check out my 84 wagon wheels they are only 13's. Getting some 14's and gonna chrome them as well:Flame:

Yep Jumpy Tach = worn distributor bushings - easy fix take to auto electrician Stalling at idle = usually junk in idle fuel circuit on carby. Either try the MMO as suggested or pull carby apart clean and rebuild. Check the vacuum operation of al components and check the throttle shaft on the carby is not loose this can contribute to a changing idle. We all been here before - oh an probably not the coil either

Can someone post a picture of this valve please, was about to do a rear disc on an EA81 - need that valve now

Hey Mate If you really want the weber you can on the new webers get EGR connections, fuel return lines and hook the PCV through the air cleaner thereby all original anti-smog gear is on the wagon. Also though the Hitachi is a good carby and not too hard to rebuild.

forgot to say temp guage to half way is normal with these cars mine is in bars and it normally sits at five bars (1/2 way) and then when stationary goes to six bars and as soon as gets to seven the thermo fan switches on. Thats about 2/3 up guage. All my ea81 been the same. You can have a secondary wired thermo fan in fact many get rid of the clutch belt driven fan and put on a electro fan. Mine has AC so only got the two thermo fans, no belt driven fan. Also in US some use an EA81 turbo dual core radiator, not seen them here in Oz but i'm sureyou could get them, not seen any need myself if cooling maintained well enough but also good idea to replace water pump if you pull the engine.