WRX1AB

a couple of things 1` I want my hoodie!~ 2 its brians turn! 3 When I come back I will work with whoever ends up with all my old parts to put together a wagon or a hatch wiht all that stuff on it 4 Brian I want your legacy miss you guys

tie rods and ball joints might be bad. maybe oyu lost a wheel weight or gained some mud on the back of a rim.

you are not going to break tehm off, they are steal. if anything you might strip teh threads out if not carful. I recomend putting two nuts on it, locking them together, tapping the top of the stud with a hammer (ie, tapping it into teh head to break the oxide layers, but not too hard) , maybe slightly heating it (like afte rits bean running but I realize this might not be feasable) and unscreawing the studs wiht the nuts that you locked together. if the studs are intack, i would (and often do) leave them in tact. maybe get a helicoil set just in case you wreck the threads. most threads get wrecked during insertion not removal though.

jack it up, turn the engine by hand in teh gear that is straight through..........oh ************, its an automatic. OK, I got it.. put a manual in! those things have hte elctromagnetic lock up right? it senses slip and then dumps power to the rear..... i like the drain plug idea... its a good one.

put breaker on nut tell everyone to stand back lock back of breaker on the ground, so that if the engine should rotate it will lock the bar on the ground cross fingers turn ignition key works every time be careful. makesure you know which way the engine turns! only let it turn over a couple of times. do not hit the gas pedle, maybe pul the power wire off hte ignition module so that the engine does not start. I have done the wheel lug breaker in the spark plug hole before but never on an engine i wanted to keep.

I would (I did) put the turbo in and after you find that leak, its going to kick rump roast. the turbo was great. that was the most fun car I ever built.

but thanks everyone for looking this up for me. hey brian!

I knew it was a long shot, but I had to take a chance. My legacy is pretty rare here in hte UK and I already took all the shafts off all the cars (one!) on the yard. I am pretty sure that a peice of the cage has snapped out on the drivers side (right side) because after hard lock it pinches and binds up and then goes band and then its OK for a little while. also, the clydes dales have stopped chasing me when its warm. only when its cold. Its obviously bad. hte bang noise is quite violent. I ahve a 200 mile round trip tonight. the only good news is that i am picking up my previously screwed axels and making a "compliation mix" at some point in the next month. how exciting what with my exams and disertation coming.

don't screw with teh compression! ad a turbo!

I live in the UK now and its going to cost me a fortune to get them shipped. Did you look it uP? I don't mean to be rude... I know they are not stubs like on the old ea81's or 82's. I know there is an outbord cv joint and an inboard doj and that the shafts must be apporximately the same length.... and I also know that the rears probably last for ever......

I ahve a 90 legacy. can someone tell me if hte rear half shafts by some miracle have hte same part number as the fronts? I can't find any fronts, and they are really expensive reman or new in the UK. I know where there are 2 perfect rears and I want to know if the outboard cv joint will mathc up. This would pretty much save me, so please help. a shout out to shan and Brian.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/

yes its a 5 speed, but no turbo. (you lucky dog) I bet your cars is bad rump roast, how much did it cost? jsut for when we get back.....

yes dave, and ooops for so long, its right hand drive. Hte dealer thinks itsd grey market (from japan) and there is a dude in town with the full blown twin turbo 280 hp legacy also from japan. makes me miss my red wagon which I think had just a hair more power than the legacy but it could be that the wqagon was so slow (ea81 to ea81t with teh turbo form the ea82) that the t made a huge huge difference. still the legacy mustered 130 mph on a long trip from bath to newcastle (secluded section) the british are really consious of the age of cars so I got a dirty look form the new 911 that had to get out of the way of the 1992 legacy. it was way cheaper than california too, £500 about $800 in funny money. but it hurts on fuel as it costs $5.00 a gallon here and the thing gets only slightley better gas millage than my 63 valient with a 4bbl.

bump! I think I got it. the car has a PCB (printed curcuit board) imobilizer key that looks a little tired. I have bypassed it and it won't die. I also got a coil pack and a cam sensor and two ignition modules at the scrapyard for cheapo for cheap insurance. ps, the ignition modules for the impreza are the same as for teh legacy.

that thing is only as silly as a k and n filter. os if it is cheaper, then get it. it wont clean the air as good as a k and n filter though. if you increase the ox content too much as in stoichiometric ratios you will melt pistons because the temp will go up, but not the compression ratio. you need O2 in small quantaties to slow hte burn. if you want to add something, ad nitrous.

I have a 1990 legacy 4x4 5speed 2.2, and we live in northern england where subes are rare. its been struggaling to start on and off lately, and it dropped dead on the motorway in trafic today. I pulled the fuel line and it was gushing on crank. we got towed and it started on tow. then it died. then it role started, then it died. Now, it seemed like when it was having trouble starting that as I gave up it would start. so, carnk curcuit bad, run curcuit good, or for those of you with old cars, you would guess resistor curcuit right? Now, if there is a diference, they are both bad. SO, I am guessing igntion module. I have very little in test equipment. so .... 1 is my diagnosis close? 2 are the crank/cam sensors and coil and ignition modules the same on the impreza from teh same year? thanks Richard. Ps shan wheres my hoodie? this is my 4th sube, 2 wagons, 1 hatch and a legacy. you shoulda seen the red wagon! (turbo injection pushrod fulltime 5 speed hi/lo lsd, lowered and kybs all round with teh sticky wide rubber to match. type r killer with push rods!)

I think its m10 1.25

my red wagon was 22 years old when I gave it to shan, the only rust was where I reversed into a gas station pole and smacked it out with a sledge hammer and a crow bar. I never painted it. it was a califormnia ski car/mudder. my legacy here has 1 perforation and 2 rust spots. I now live in the north of englans, and my legacy is 12 years old. It sounds like there is an issue with the new paints or galvinisation. remember all the white for tourus and mazdas and mercedes that pealed paint off in hte late 80s - mid 90's? if you want to spee dup the rust, pour HCl on it (acid from a pool store). the rust will come right off, so will the metal, and it will start rusting again. wear gloves and goggles.

peice of cake. Its not like you are squeezing a wrx motor into a 360

I have to ask, how are you planning on sending power to the wheels? i like the idea of mid engine. however, there are three rotational outputs on those trannies as there is no extrenal removeable xfer case. Were you planning on turning the rear wheels with the transverse "front", near the bell houseing outputs and sending the longitudinal output (formerly rear) to the front? I am really confused. or are you planning on mounting the whole thing transverse and sending lfet to teh rear and right to the front?

ok, thanks Shawn, and I remember you from the old sube days, when had an old sube. You are correct, they are the same. (i bult the wagon ea81 with rx full time hi lo 5 speed and locking middle diff with an ea 81 turbo)

dude, hardware stores here are a JOKE! I can't even get a tap and die! let alone a helicoil kit! the metric bolts I did find were hte wrong pitch. and I fond a 6 mm one for the three bolt flange after the y pipe, but it was the wrong grade and sheard off in the pipe. I have been told to take off the heads and get it helicoiled at a shop. but its running! its sad to think that 20 years ago Britain was still concidered the home of engineering excellence (well, maybe 50 years ago) but now, nobody fixes thier own stuff, and we only make things to BMW spec. I am almost tempted to make inserts my self from the enxt size (or 2) bolt and drill a hole in it and tap it. I ahve done that before. it just seems that a helicoil set it too hard to find in teh UK. wierd. GOD I miss the US sometimes.

bump. Help. also, does anyone know where i can get helicoils in hte UK? I have them in the states... but in hte UK, the kits are hard to get

what size are the exhaust manifold threads? It looks like an m8 1.5 can anyone confirm? I ahve a 92 legacy 2.2. I need my helicoil set! Thanks Yall,