tires worn on the inside

[1-3-2-4]

Im getting my alignment done in a few weeks but what would be the cause of excessive wear on the inside front tires? I don't want to do all that until I have the other strusts for the fronts..

 

having said that do the rear stock struts have a camber bolt?

 

the struts I have now are BYB-GR2

Edited October 31, 2010 by 1-3-2-4

[Fairtax4me]

Excessive toe-in/toe-out, or incorrect camber/caster. Or you just need to slow down in corners.

Assuming you mean the tread on the inside edge of the tire is worn, not the tread in the middle of the tire.

 

Stock rear strut to knuckle bolts are straight.

[1-3-2-4]

Excessive toe-in/toe-out, or incorrect camber/caster. Or you just need to slow down in corners.

Assuming you mean the tread on the inside edge of the tire is worn, not the tread in the middle of the tire.

 

Stock rear strut to knuckle bolts are straight.

 

is it possible that the camber can go out of adjustment?

 

Only thing I've done was replace the inner/outer tie rods and the lower ball joints.

 

and yes the inside edge of the tie I'm talking about. middle of the tire seems fine and outer is because of my cornering skills

 

 

Do the rear's have camber bolts? I forgot the last time I had the rear wheels off because my replacement rear struts don't have the little mark on them.

[Fairtax4me]

and yes the inside edge of the tie I'm talking about. middle of the tire seems fine and outer is because of my cornering skills

You have wear on the outside edges as well?

Excessive speed in corners wears BOTH edges of the tires. Inside on one, outside on the other.

 

Most common reason for improper camber is a change in vehicle height. If new springs are installed and an alignment done, when the springs "settle" in a month or so, the camber spec will be out because the car will sit lower. Alignment should be checked periodically during settling, and adjusted accordingly to avoid tire wear.

 

Only thing I've done was replace the inner/outer tie rods and the lower ball joints.

Did you get an alignment done afterwards?

[1-3-2-4]

You have wear on the outside edges as well?

Excessive speed in corners wears BOTH edges of the tires. Inside on one, outside on the other.

 

Most common reason for improper camber is a change in vehicle height. If new springs are installed and an alignment done, when the springs "settle" in a month or so, the camber spec will be out because the car will sit lower. Alignment should be checked periodically during settling, and adjusted accordingly to avoid tire wear.

 

 

Did you get an alignment done afterwards?

i got wear on both inside and outside on both fronts.. I will take a picture when I get home.

 

Now for the tie rods at first I only did the drivers side and the wheel still tracked fine however when I later did the passenger side thats when I had a problem to go forward stright I need to turn the wheel about 20 degrees to the left and if you try and center it, it will want to go to the left.. I thought it was pointless to get the alinement done because im doing the springs and struts next week.

[1-3-2-4]

a few quick shots before going out to vote

 

Passenger side

 

 

Driver's side

 

 

Not really great images to describe because they don't really show the wear on the inside all that well.

[Fairtax4me]

Vote? Who the hell does that anymore? Jk Glad you found someone worth voting for (or against).

I could really care less about who wins my district this round, they're both slimeballs who won't get a damn thing done. (Is that really anything new? )

 

Here's whats fun about alignments. Changing any one parameter affects all of the others as well. If toe is out of spec, the caster and camber angles will be off as well. If Caster is incorrect, the toe will change, if camber is wrong, toe angle will be wrong as well. Same with thrust angle.

At this point, doesn't matter what is out of spec, your tires are hosed. The drivers side mimics the look of severely under-inflated, though it could just be the combination of camber and toe being out of whack.

 

An easy way to set toe without an alignment is with a ruler. You can google self alignments and find some tricks for doing it.

 

Matter of fact... I knew I remembered seeing it somewhere. The FSM has all the specs and measurements, as well as the procedure for doing an alignment.

Edited November 2, 2010 by Fairtax4me

[1-3-2-4]

Vote? Who the hell does that anymore? Jk Glad you found someone worth voting for (or against).

I could really care less about who wins my district this round, they're both slimeballs who won't get a damn thing done. (Is that really anything new? )

 

Here's whats fun about alignments. Changing any one parameter affects all of the others as well. If toe is out of spec, the caster and camber angles will be off as well. If Caster is incorrect, the toe will change, if camber is wrong, toe angle will be wrong as well. Same with thrust angle.

At this point, doesn't matter what is out of spec, your tires are hosed. The drivers side mimics the look of severely under-inflated, though it could just be the combination of camber and toe being out of whack.

 

An easy way to set toe without an alignment is with a ruler. You can google self alignments and find some tricks for doing it.

 

 

haha the people running here both I could care less.. broken promises..

 

the driver's tire is underflated about 2 months ago (yes 2!) something must of caused a slow leak I did not know until I got on the highway the car's steering felt dead.

 

Not only was my stock jack broke but I just got on an on-ramp so I was unable to back up and turn around because its in a blind turn. So I had to creep on the highway at 10 mph or less (cars honking in the first lane and hi-beaming me) to the first exit to see if I could get air in it.

 

It holds but about every 12 hours it starts to deflate to around 23 psi.. Now as to why I did not put my spare on? Because I don't want it to get chewed up like the front's are now Because my spare was unused.

 

Now as to why I did not get new tires yet? At the time it was still summer and I plan on have the wheels on the car now dedicated snow tires so I did not want to run them to early but I will be buying them now before everyone goes nuts at the first snowfall and the prices jump up $20-40

 

and besides the front tires are just at the wear bars now.. last year it was downright scary in the snow on the highway combined with a car that is very bouncy on the smallest bump I said to myself if it's not changed before first snowfall I'm not driving this like like that.

 

 

I have to get this done because it's eating my gas mileage up like crazy

Edited November 2, 2010 by 1-3-2-4

[Setright]

I would put money on "excessive toe-out". The inside edge is playing part of leading edge too, and gets scrubbed out.

 

Fits with a tie-rod swap.

 

With toe-out, you should find the steering quite responsive on turn-in.

 

 

 

Lots of negative camber can cause what you are seeing, but you need more than -1.0 degree, and lots of straights. "Spirited" cornering will even out the wear.

 

Usually, too LITTLE negavtive camber gives wear on the OUTSIDE shoulder.

 

 

Camber bolts for the rear are available, and very good investment. They cost pennies, and give you more influence on the car's handling.

 

 

I suggest using the front stock bolts to get as close to -1.0 as you can, and aftermarket camber bolts on the rear to match the value you can hit on the fronts.

 

Turn-in, and cornering grip will improve!. A lot!

 

What about your swaybays? If you stiffen up the rear, the turn-in will improve, but lift-off oversteer could become a "problem". Again, I like to have even thickness on the swaybars. Gives very adjustable handling, without making the car dangerous.

[1-3-2-4]

turn in feels a little sharper but only when going to the right I have my money bet on excessive toe out as well

 

as for the rear camber bolts the rears don't have a alignment mark

 

as for the rear and front sway bar I was going to buy a adjustable one soon but what is the stock for the 95 Legacy.. a little more overstear would be nice since the car always wants to push under more throttle. If I shift the weight of the car I can get it to oversteer.

[johnceggleston]

every thing you ever wanted to know about sway bars and then some.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/swaybar-faq-134646.html

[1-3-2-4]

every thing you ever wanted to know about sway bars and then some.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/swaybar-faq-134646.html

 

So for a 95 legacy L wagon stock

 

Front: 19mm

 

Rear: 15mm

 

I don't see any aftermarket front swaybars

[Fairtax4me]

You didn't look hard enough. http://www.rallitek.com/RalliTEK-Front-Anti-Sway-Bar-Kit-LegacyOutback-Non-Turbo-1990-2004/p-4378

Whiteline sells . 20mm, and 22mm adjustable and non adjustable. Whiteline bars generally cost more though. Unless you get lucky enough to find one on ebay.

NVM about Perrin.

Edited November 4, 2010 by Fairtax4me

[1-3-2-4]

You didn't look hard enough. http://www.rallitek.com/RalliTEK-Front-Anti-Sway-Bar-Kit-LegacyOutback-Non-Turbo-1990-2004/p-4378

Whiteline sells . 20mm, and 22mm adjustable and non adjustable. Whiteline bars generally cost more though. Unless you get lucky enough to find one on ebay.

NVM about Perrin.

 

oh I was looking at the boxer4racing site.\

 

However it seems the car would benefit more with a larger rear swaybar more then the front. I think when everything is done I will do the rear first.

 

I think I saw on the LegacyGT link that something is prone to breaking when installing a larger bar?

[Fairtax4me]

oh I was looking at the boxer4racing site.\

 

However it seems the car would benefit more with a larger rear swaybar more then the front. I think when everything is done I will do the rear first.

 

I think I saw on the LegacyGT link that something is prone to breaking when installing a larger bar?

 

The stock rear sway bar links are kinda wimpy. Most people have to upgrade because the links break. Then the brackets that hold the bars to the frame get bent (they're kinda wimpy too). There are upgrades available, both are $$$$.

Rallitek offers kits for the Impreza that include the bar, end links, and heavy duty brackets. They SHOULD fit, but I haven't been able to confirm that yet.

[1-3-2-4]

The stock rear sway bar links are kinda wimpy. Most people have to upgrade because the links break. Then the brackets that hold the bars to the frame get bent (they're kinda wimpy too). There are upgrades available, both are $$$$.

Rallitek offers kits for the Impreza that include the bar, end links, and heavy duty brackets. They SHOULD fit, but I haven't been able to confirm that yet.

 

well I hope they wont bend.. I'm not sure how much $$$$ is but if it's over $200 that's nuts.

[Fairtax4me]

well I hope they wont bend.. I'm not sure how much $$$$ is but if it's over $200 that's nuts.

 

The Rallitek kits are like $260 for everything.

Perrin sells the heavy duty mounts for around $120 by themselves. And Whiteline or Perrin heavy duty end links are in the $140 range by themselves.

There was one other place I found that sold heavy duty mounts that I can't recall off the top of my head.

[1-3-2-4]

well I might need those mounts anyways

[Fairtax4me]

I've had my eye on this Rallitek kit for some time. http://www.rallitek.com/RalliTEK-Anti-Sway-Bar-Kit-Impreza-Non-Turbo-1993-2007/p-4382

$350 for front and rear bars, all new bushings, and rear heavy duty mounts and end links.

Just haven't been able to confirm if the Impreza bars will fit the legacy yet. I can't find both of them in a junkyard at the same time to swap bars from one to the other. :-\

[1-3-2-4]

I looked at my mount this morning while getting air and they look fine