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New 87 GL owner in PA


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Hey everyone, my name is Rob. Im located in Danville PA and I just picked up this beauty from Paul (moosens) in Bridgeport, CT.

 

This is my first Subaru but I have owned a 93 Geo Tracker and an 87 Nissan Pulsar NX XE (see pic) that I have daily drove. The Tracker destroyed a Grand Am about 3 years back and the impact bent the frame. The Nissan is out of inspection and im not sure if I want to fix it or buy something more fun for a summer driver (Miata!!) So Ive been looking for a new daily driver/winter beater for a while. I saw this GL back months ago but I always kinda wanted another Tracker to build and offroad again so i put off buying it. Once Paul reposted his need to get rid of his GL i started looking into Subaru's again and got hooked. I love how simple they seem, and they offer a lot more room than Trackers and my Nissan(or Miata if i pick one of them up too). Overall it seems like a perfect driver for me.

 

ANYWAY... Here's what I got:

 

1987 Subaru GL Wagon

- White w/Blue Interior

- EA82T newly installed JDM unit

- 5 speed with push button 4WD

- Around 153k miles on dash (but could be more)

- Power steering, A/C, Power Windows, Power Locks

- Has some swapped GL Features like nice seats

- 99% rust free, body has maybe 5 small dings in it.

 

I know it needs (or could use) the following work done:

- Install new speedo cable (Included)

- Rear diff swapped to 3.9 unit ("wrong" tranny was included with JDM engine, need to swap rear diff to match it. New diff included with sale)

- Figure out the front blinkers... They dont work right now, one needs a bulb for sure.

- Fix the windows (all but driver side dont work, i figure the tracks are bad or motors are gone)

- Install intercooler (Paul was nice enough to include a small one)

- Figure out a slight engine tap. It sounded great when i looked at it, two days later the engine was knocking or tapping when i ran it. Odd issue. I filled the oil a bit and it went away a good deal (but is still slightly present). I have a oil change ready for it, see if that calms it.

 

Overall I made out pretty good on the sale. Runs awesome, even if it taps a bit still (Ive heard from many people these hydraulic lifters ARE pretty noisy normally though). Im looking forward to slightly modifying and driving it for a longggg time!

 

Finally, PICS!!! (when directly posted they came out huge so i just linked them for you)

 

http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/2590/s5030089.jpg

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/2066/s5030083.jpg

http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/5761/s5030084.jpg

http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/3793/s5030085.jpg

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/6286/s5030086.jpg

http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/811/s5030087.jpg

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good score, way to go paul keeping it around the "family". welcome to USMB.

 

tapping is very, very common, lots of info here on fixing that. first step is oil change. second step is reseal the oil pump. 3rd is replace the oil pump.

 

you could attempt some treatment options that sometimes work (depending on the cause) before getting into the oil pump.

 

sometimes it's just simpler to replace the oil pump than try multiple things over a long period of time.

 

if an HLA is sticking then it'll need replaced. but you can leave them, it's just annoying and won't cause any issues. you said a daily driver winter beater so just turn the radio up.

 

due to the HLA set up it's best to change your oil often to keep them happy.

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Cool, thanks for the info! I know the EA82T is finicky for oil (read up on it before). Any suggestions for oil weight to keep it happy? I may treat it with some Seafoam in the oil before I change out the oil for new stuff, see if that helps to clean out the HLA's a bit too.

 

If all else fails the oil pump shouldn't be too hard to replace seals on (or replacing the whole thing). Ill actually be keeping this thing nice, so i don't mind dropping bucks to keep it running good.

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if you keep them from running out of oil or overheating they can last a really long time....well here in the rust belt most are eaten away.

 

they can be very reliable. get the ebay timing belt kits with all new pulleys, they're a steal at like $60 for all new pulleys, two tensioners, and both belts. then reseal the oil pump and cam caps while you're at it. i usually throw a new water pump on too while it's all a part. only you know what kind of reliability you want, but that's what i wanted.

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Welcome Rob!

 

I know it needs (or could use) the following work done:

- Install new speedo cable (Included) Easy , you'll do fine

- Rear diff swapped to 3.9 unit ("wrong" tranny was included with JDM engine, need to swap rear diff to match it. New diff included with sale) Hopefully as easy as I've lined it up to be. I alread had the axles off but had to revert when I couldn't get that damn 3.90 nut .... well you know the deal.

- Figure out the front blinkers... They dont work right now, one needs a bulb for sure. Yes, and you might need a small tail harness to the bulb. Normally , back in the day I'd have a half dozen of them...:-\ Easy enough if you do need one. But the lack of working bulb makes it flash faster.

- Fix the windows (all but driver side dont work, i figure the tracks are bad or motors are gone) I know they were dog slow but were working. One of those things where if I had the car any longer I would have made an effort on them. I'm thinknig its electrical and a ground wire. I've got to dig up my factory service manual for you. But meanwhile trace your grounds and maybe take the door panels off and spray the tracks , etc...

- Install intercooler (Paul was nice enough to include a small one) Springtime at the latest ,please. :)

- Figure out a slight engine tap. It sounded great when i looked at it, two days later the engine was knocking or tapping when i ran it. Odd issue. I filled the oil a bit and it went away a good deal (but is still slightly present). I have a oil change ready for it, see if that calms it. Needs louder radio. :grin: Seriously , has to be from the nose being up ...or ???? That sucker was almost too quiet for a Subaru of that era.

 

 

 

Windshield frame , don't neglect that. And make sure water drains out !!! Every corner , what goes under the cowl , etc. etc ..... Spray it with oil if you want to just sustain its condition untill a springtime reconditioning.

Really hoping to see this car and my former '74 at Carlisle this year. You guys are carrying my torches. :lol: We get Danny Williams there too and its going to be a "vintage get down" ! Hot dang!

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Got her legal today! About 300 bucks to register and insure for 6 months. Not bad really.

 

Notes on when I drove it for gas:

- Gas gauge HAS to be broken. Put in 15 bucks and it rose VERY slowly to 1/4 tank and stopped. Is that normal? It rose really slow and 15 bucks took it from E to 1/4. How much room could possibly be left in there? Haha.

- Charge light was on very dimly... The lights also faded out a bit at some points. Just faded, then popped back on full. Charge issue i think. Maybe a batt or alt needs replaced (perfect time to upgrade to a bigger Alt Im thinking :))

- Oil pressure worried me a bit. It was at or above the 45 mark while driving but while stopped idling it dipped very low... Only about 1/8" from the bottom line. I think i read this is sorta normal though right? Or does this mean I should order me a new pump and seals?

- The heat is really odd (and two of the buttons being worn down dont help much... Haha!) I have to figure out how it all works. Im used to my easy panel with pics of where the heat is blowing. This whole old fashioned bi level design is odd to me.

 

Other than that it ran pretty fantastic. No real engine noises to speak of, she's quieted a lot since that odd day it knocked... Drives pretty straight and nice too. Not a bad little vehicle, just has a list of little crap to fix and she's perfect!

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Don't forget to get a good set of tires.

 

Car sat way too long so I expect the gas gauge float ,etc. are gummed up somewhat.

 

Charge light , probably needs an alternator. I know I swapped on in recently. Maybe it wasn't that good.

 

Oil pressure - bothered me too but I always had pressure when I pressed tha gas pedal. I did replace at least the pump gaskets if not the whole pump.

 

Heat - refer to that manual in the glove box. :) Plenty of those control units out there. I know I had extras but "ctsuba" should have all that stuff now. Buttons can be removed and replaced.

 

Enjoy!

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Oil pressure is probably fine. How old is the oil filter, change it maybe?

 

The sending units can fail and the gauges aren't the most accurate.

 

I've been told the engine gets plenty of volume of oil even when the gauge reads low. Subaru even documents this fact in their owners manual or somewhere that it's okay if it appears close to zero on the gauge after warm.

 

Now - you could still have an issue so it's good you're looking out but just be aware that they don't read what you'd think either and this is a really common question.

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These cars like 30 wt oil. I would recommend 10w-30 as 5w-30 may be too light. You could probably do just fine with the HD or ND 30 wt oil. I have run 30 wt chainsaw bar oil in a ford pinto....(leaked profusely)

 

 

I have also run 15w-40 and 20w-50 in these cars, depending on the mileage and how bad they leak

 

At least the car has big enough oil galleries to not choke if the oil is thicker

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Desert - I hope to get to Harrys this week actually. Ill message you with an exact date when i figure it out if you'd like.

 

Miles - Ill give the 10w30 a try then. I usually use Castrol GTX with Purolator or Wix filters. That all sound good?

 

I drive the GL to my dads today for Thanksgiving and noticed part way there the Charge, Brake, and Stop Lamp lights are on about half way (and the park brake light in the center). The Voltmeter is only reading about 10 while the car is on too. Im leaning heavily towards weak alt. Any opinions though?

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Exact same issues? That would be great if its doing the same thing, takes out my guesswork. Those 4 warning lights came half on and the voltmeter read at 10ish? When I turn on the left blinker the lights flicker and the voltmeter goes up and down.

 

Im looking into upgrades as we speak. The Maxima one looks nice and fairly easy (other than swapping the pulley to accommodate the single belt, but that looks simple)

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