83 wagon alternator fun!

[Ogrekhan]

Hey all,

 

I left work tonight and before I got a block my volt gauge dropped to 8 and I had three dummy lights pop up on the cluster. Parking break, brake lamp, and can't recall the third. The volt gauge was right in the happy range every day before this happened and I have no clue why the dummy lights would pop on due to an alternator failing... any ideas? It got me home , about a 10 minute drive and ran fine with the lights still bright. I left it running and tested for voltage at the battery 11.66 volts with the lights on. Once I shut the engine off the battery read a healthy 12.4. I'm going to go out now that I've had a bite to eat and check fuses etc.

[Ogrekhan]

Hey,

 

Fuses are all good and I'm getting only battery voltage at the alternator with the car running so........... looks like it's toast unless anyone has any knowledge to send my way lol.

[swampbrat]

Yep , it's the alternator. Toyotas do the same thing - lots of idiot lights come on when the alt goes. If you can't find a cheapie , I have a spare ( off a 91 ea82 if that will work.

[Ogrekhan]

Hey,

 

Thanks for the response . The really good news is that nobody in this town stocks this alternator so I'll be shelling out $70+tax for a special order reman lol.

Checked all the yards around here and no dice there either. I'm thinking I'll put a WTB add in the parts forum and see if anybody has one to sell so I can have a spare on hand for the inevitable reman fail hehe .

[ferox]

The really good news is that nobody in this town stocks this alternator so I'll be shelling out $70+tax for a special order reman lol.

Checked all the yards around here and no dice there either.

You should look into either the GM alt swap or the Nissan alt swap. They are both more powerful and more plentiful.

[TeamCF]

+1 on a swap. Info for both can be found in the forums. The Nissan one is a bit more "no special tools" friendly. The GM swap may require cutting and welding of brackets. (Mine did) But more amps is oh so nice when it's needed. (I have a tendency to run alot of lights in the woods at night. Alot.)

[Ogrekhan]

Hey,

 

Thanks for the advice! I was reading GD's write up on the nissan swap , and it sounds great but I'm a little fuzzy on the details. First I'm unsure if it will fit with my factory carb and AC. Second if I can use the single groove pulley off my alt or if I'll have to track down a double groove EA-82 pulley. Either way since the sooby is my current DD I had to bite the bullet and shell out for the remain just to get back on the road asap.

[Uncle Ed]

If you read GD's write up then you've seen the pictures of the wife's car. EA81 engine, stock carb and intake. Single groove pulley. The difference between using a single or a double groove pulley is how much you grind or file off of the spacer. I don't know about the clearance with the A/C compressor, but the engine in her car uses the stock mounting with the compressor removed.

 

Ed

[Cougar]

Since you asked about the warning lights.

 

The warnings are placed in the alternator exciter circuit so they come on in the test mode when the ignition is turned on without the engine running. Power comes from the ignition switch, through the lights and to the alternator exciter windings which are basically at ground potential when the alternator isn't running. When the alternator is running, generated voltage is backfed from the windings and the warning lights now have about the same voltage potential across them which makes them turn off until a problem with the charging system happens. Whenever checking for alternator troubles it is a good idea to first make sure the battery warning light is working since it passes current to the alternator field. For most older systems at least. Years ago I learned the lesson about the battery warning light while working many hours on a charging problem with a Ford truck. After I cleaned the connections for the bulb the problem was solved.

Edited December 3, 2010 by Cougar