Uncle Ed

Try Napa. Some of the Nissan's used v-belt idler pulleys. I know my 85' pick up had one. Ed

Well, if you've got to go in and do an oil pump & Micky mouse gasket, then you may want to do the timing belts & water pump also. Check all the hoses (especially the small ones for the intake manifold heat & the heater return under the alternator). The oil pump for an 87 "should" fit. Ed

Did it come with the idle fuel shutoff solenoid? Make sure its getting power. I've had vehicles that wouldn't fire on starting fluid but would run if you dumped gas down the carb. Ed

Here is the information that may help you. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/105325-engine-swap-info/ You can use the EA81 large flywheel & pressure plate with the EA82's clutch disk, or use the EA82's flywheel/clutch. However the EA81's flywheel bolts are smaller in diameter than the EA82's bolts. Ed

I've striped the teeth of on one. Grabbed a set of belts from the auto parts store, put them on and drove it to work the next day. The EA82's are supposed to be a non-interference engine. So my advice to you is read the write ups on doing the timing belts, pick up a timing belt set. When your done, you can hand her the keys back with a smile knowing that it's good for another 50k miles. Ed

Remember to check the gap on your plugs before you install them. Plugs/parts can be bad even if they are brand new! I assume that its an EA81, as you said you adjusted the valves. If the tach is jumpy you most likely have a broken/loose wire, or an ignition module gone (your in limp home mode now). Ed

On a 86' with the carb, there is no computer. So, no codes to read. My bet is the igniter in the distributor went. That's assuming that you have a Hitachi distributor that is.

Yup, that would be your leak, and yes thats the pulley you would use for the alternator conversion.

Well, I don't know about anyone else, but I've been using fuel line to replace them. I know of several other post where they've done the same. Ed

Well, welcome to the forum. First things first. On the front of your intake manifold is 2 small hoses, their about 1/4" ID. theres one that runs from your thermostat over to the block, when it cracks or leaks it can spray it coolant all over that side of the engine. Next rinse the engine off. If your using the green antifreeze it will glow yellowish green under a black light, (hint, hint). Ed

Did you modify the stock air cleaner to fit the weber as was done in this other post? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142864-1978-subaru-brat-from-death-to-life-and-everything-in-between/page-7?do=findComment&comment=1279470 Ed

Theres just 2. Rockauto has them for less than $4 each. It sounds to me like you've already found where the leak is. Ed

Check the seals around your front axles, your trans and differential share the same dipstick. It's the seals on your differential that are leaking while you drive. Ed

rockauto.com This was for the rear of the wifes car, so it should be the same for yours. 1987 SUBARU GL 1.8L H4 SOHC NATIONAL 513056 (513056:P) Wheel Bearing Wholesaler Closeout - Private Label Pkg. - 30 Day Warranty $ 19.83 $ 0.00 2 $ 39.66 NATIONAL 225005 Wheel Seal $ 4.14 $ 0.00 2 $ 8.28 NATIONAL 224015 Wheel Seal Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty $ 2.23 $ 0.00 2 Ed

Here you go. I hope this helps. Weber DGEV 32/36: http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?part=43928.060 Ed