Goobysoobs Posted December 4, 2010 Share Posted December 4, 2010 So my CEL has sorta been coming on, when I drive it used to randomly come on for about 3 sec then turn off. What I mean by random is it would turn on when I was accelerating, braking, or just coasting. and then it turned on and stayed on, I changed the oil and it went off so i figured that was the issue, but It did the same random coming on then staying on again, so naturally I checked the oil and that was fine but it remained on then yesterday it was off when I drove it. Then today it was on when I was driving so I pulled the cover connected the self diagnostic wires together that I learned to do here : (though I couldn't figure which was the memory cable thought I did but it was the door chimer thingy) and It didn't give me a code just flashed a single long one over and over. (no short ones following it) so I just unconnected the self diagnostic wires and when I turned it on no CEL. Any idea on what's going on? Also another minor problem that's just annoying. My driver's door is way too sensitive like when I make a left turn it'll show on the dash that the driver's door is open when it's shut right. And I haven't been able to find the little door sensor to see if its gunky or even add something to make it a little longer so it'll show it's closed. Thanks all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 So you didn't get any codes when connecting just the black memory read connectors? I've got written instructions on my site. It may help to see it in writing, maybe not.... http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html Regarding the door, there are two different switches, one is a push button switch which is used for the overhead light. I don't recall whether this is hooked into the dash door indicator. If it's not, the other switch is actually in the lock mechanism inside the door. This is also used to trigger the auto seat belt to engage/disengage. Replacing the one in the door would likely removing the lock assembly and adjusting the switch or replacing the entire lock mechanism. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 definitely use the instructions for reading/clearing the CEL posted on Legacy777's site - not gonna find much better anywhere else - they helped me tremendously last summer when my car was throwing codes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted December 7, 2010 Author Share Posted December 7, 2010 (edited) Regarding the door, there are two different switches, one is a push button switch which is used for the overhead light. I don't recall whether this is hooked into the dash door indicator. If it's not, the other switch is actually in the lock mechanism inside the door. This is also used to trigger the auto seat belt to engage/disengage. Replacing the one in the door would likely removing the lock assembly and adjusting the switch or replacing the entire lock mechanism. Yeah My auto seat belts stopped working literally 5 min after i bought it a few months ago. lol Was planning on replacing it with the seat belts from an OBW, also I can prevent it from showing the door is open when I turn by holding the door and pulling it against me. So I'm hoping it's in the dash. as for the CEL it hasn't come on and stayed on for a few days, sometimes it will be on for like 5 sec sometimes it just does a quick flash while I'm driving. Edited December 10, 2010 by Goobysoobs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 From what you described, it sounds like it's the latch mechanism in the door with the switch. I doubt it's anything in the dash since if you pull the door towards you the light goes off. When the CEL does flash on for a few seconds, have you tried pulling the codes with the black read memory connectors? If the CEL comes on, there should be a code stored. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted December 9, 2010 Author Share Posted December 9, 2010 Hmm I haven't wasn't sure you could diagnose it while it was still running. thought you had to turn it off then connect everything then turn it back on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 Hmm I haven't wasn't sure you could diagnose it while it was still running. thought you had to turn it off then connect everything then turn it back on. correct. But any recent codes will be stored in the memory. Make sure you use the Black connectors. You need to run the engine over 2000 rpms for about 30 seconds then the codes should output. If the light comes on steady during this process there are no codes. You may not have gotten codes if you used the greens. That is a current time diagnostic mode, and wil on;y display "active" codes. Not so great for tracking down random light on/off. Using both conenctors at the same time, and again running the enigne over 2000 rpms for 30 seconds will clear all codes, unless there is an "active" problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted December 9, 2010 Author Share Posted December 9, 2010 correct. But any recent codes will be stored in the memory. Make sure you use the Black connectors. You need to run the engine over 2000 rpms for about 30 seconds then the codes should output. If the light comes on steady during this process there are no codes. You may not have gotten codes if you used the greens. That is a current time diagnostic mode, and wil on;y display "active" codes. Not so great for tracking down random light on/off. Using both conenctors at the same time, and again running the enigne over 2000 rpms for 30 seconds will clear all codes, unless there is an "active" problem. oh ok thanks I'll try that out tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 You do NOT need to have the engine running to pull any stored codes with the black connectors. You only need to have the key in the "ON" position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted December 10, 2010 Author Share Posted December 10, 2010 (edited) So I could not find the other connector for the black one, I could only find the female, I even cut all the tapes (masking and electrical) that held it all bundled up but still could not find it. But the CEL is now on all the time so I just connected the Green ones and same thing just a steady flash like there is no problem, disconnected them and CEL is still on. I did warm the engine up first and even drove for 2 minutes getting it into 4th gear and still no codes. Although while it was in "on" position but not turned on the fans came on but there was sorta a clicking noise like something else was trying to turn on but wasn't. So I'm not sure if the self diagnoser thing is faulty or what also the body is an LS S/W. Plus it didn't really look like Legacy777's pictures down there.... no TSU bar thingy. Edited December 10, 2010 by Goobysoobs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted December 12, 2010 Share Posted December 12, 2010 you need to do some more digging under that dash - you really need to find that other black connector (or a wire with no connector attached to it?) The greens will NOT tell you what you need to know - you NEED that other wire w/black connector - it has to be in there somewhere - or as mentioned, a wire with no end on it... as for this: there was sorta a clicking noise like something else was trying to turn on but wasn't where was the clicking sound coming from? under the dash, possibly a relay, from behind you (as sitting in drivers seat) possibly fuel pump... in your original post you didnt mention any driveability issues when the CEL would come on - were/are there any issues? missing? bogging? general crappy running? anything at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted December 12, 2010 Share Posted December 12, 2010 The clicking is normal when connecting the green diagnostic connectors. The ECU cycles the relays so it can be determined if they are working correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted December 14, 2010 Author Share Posted December 14, 2010 The clicking is normal when connecting the green diagnostic connectors. The ECU cycles the relays so it can be determined if they are working correctly. Ah OK that's good to know and I'll check again with the daylight maybe dig my hand in there feeling about. As for driving issues the transmission seems like it's slipping(as if it was an automatic the rpms will continue to rise unless i back off the throttle) sometimes when I drive or it's just not getting into gear fast enough. I bought this car with some high miles so tomorrow with the daylight I'm going to change out the transmission fluid because as a lot of people have said most folks never change out manual transmission fluid and I'm hoping that will take care of that and probably the CEL which still flicks on and isn't on all the time now. So I guess wish me luck haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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