I have an 88 GL 4spd D/r with an EA81 engine,

 

I have a 95 EJ22 & Adapter plate, and a EA82 5spd D/R Tranny to swap into that car.

 

I've been reading and I'm a little confused about the differences in the trans-axles. From what I understand, the current CVs on the car are too short for 5spd tranny? Does anyone have insight on new clutches and throwout bearings?

 

Any Links to write-ups would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks.

Edited December 31, 201015 yr by Big Country

axles will be just fine.

 

driveshaft will have to be modified (shortened?)

 

 

IMHO, with an EA82 flywheel/transmission, and an EJ22 in front of it. Best bang for the buck clutch option is a Beck/Arnley clutch kit for an XT6/EA82t (#0619130). I've bought and run 3 of these over the years (2 with EJ swaps, one in an XT6), and am very impressed with the quality, and price (RockAuto has 'em for less than $200).

Thanks for the info for the Clutch. I'm starting the EJ swap now,

 

Is a (VSS) Vehicle Speed Sensor necessary for the ECU? or can I just use a speedo cable from the tranny to my dash? I guess my question is, Does the ECU use the speed data for anything other than the speedometer?

 

Thanks,

The VSS will have to be connected or the engine won't rev out all the way. simply tap into the vss wire on the back of he speedo. you should be able to get at ut from under the dash.

speedometer is mechanical, and was for much of the '90s. So no, the VSS wasn't for the gauge. You'll probably have issues if it's an OBD II ECU if you don't have a VSS. some EA81s (don't ask me which ones....I don't know...) already have the VSS in the cluster though, just a matter of hooking up the signal wire.

I have an obd-I ecu from a 95 legacy. What does the vss do exactly? I understand it is an electronic speed sensor, but why does the ecu not run well without it?

'95 is OBD II for the 2.2s.

 

 

I have no idea why....but it's definitely true.

It seems my Intake manifold is from a '92 (OBD-I ?) but the rest of the engine is from a 95. My Harness is from a '95 (therefore OBD-II, thanks numbchux).

 

The Newer ECU won't plug & play with the older intake manifold, will it?

the plugs at the necessary sensors are the same, so if you get your hands on the engine harness from an OBD II engine you should be able to swap that over and then it should all plug right in.

the plugs at the necessary sensors are the same, so if you get your hands on the engine harness from an OBD II engine you should be able to swap that over and then it should all plug right in.

 

To clarify, intake manifold harness from an obd 1 will plug into a engine harness of an obd 2?

 

thanks

To clarify, intake manifold harness from an obd 1 will plug into a engine harness of an obd 2?

 

thanks

 

No.

 

He means that if you get the harness off a 95+ intake and swap it to your 92 intake it will work.

 

Also, you could mate the 92 wiring to the 95+ harness by cutting off the connectors and mating the harness directly or through another set of matching connectors.

 

You'd just need proper diagrhams and a soldering iron.

 

I will tell you now though, when you are looking for wiring info for the 95, it is a 1 year only setup. 96+ ECUs use the same connector, but the pin arrangment and wire colors are unique to 95.

Thanks a ton!

 

Its almost finished! In the Harness, there are two O2 sensors. Are both of those needed? None needed? What do people usually do about this? I have a manifold with no places for them, but i could drill holes if needed. Currently I plan on running only the manifold/Y-pipe and no catalytic converter. Any suggestions?

 

Thanks

the front 02 is pretty important. the OBD II ECUs are pretty smart, and will make adjustments to the fuel trims based on that 02 sensor.

 

 

The rear one is just to check the efficiency for the catalytic converter. it'll throw a code if it's not hooked up (or, if you don't have a cat), but it won't effect the way it runs.

 

 

the 02 sensor bung is mounted in the cat-pipe, right after the manifold, on OBD II setups.

Thanks for all the great info, but I have another question now.

 

On a OBD1 Block, the cam and crank position sensors have three wires. But on a OBD2 Intake harness only has two wires for those sensors. Is the extra a ground?

 

Thanks again.

3rd wire on the old ones is a shield wire. You'll find only 2 wires go to the sensor, even on OBD 1 cars

3rd wire on the old ones is a shield wire. You'll find only 2 wires go to the sensor, even on OBD 1 cars

 

That makes more sense now, thanks.

Did you get my PM?

It Runs! ...Kinda

 

 

This was a proof of concept test run.

There is no O2 sensors and quite a few vacuum leaks (as you can see fingers plugging them...)

 

After fixing the Vacuum leaks and adding a O2 sensor will the idle smooth out?

Any other suggestions from anyone?

 

Thanks.

 

PS, the video doesn't do justice to how loud it was... It never got above 1400RPM in the video...

i have a 74 bug with a ej22 motor in it. it starts up with all four cyclinders and then after it reaches temp it goes into fail safe mode so im told and running off two cyclinders. what can i do to fix this problem

I've never heard of fail safe mode...

 

We tried to start it up again today, this time with the green test plugs unplugged... It didn't want to start. It backfired alot, and never started. We fixed the vacuum leaks, (so we thought) and Added an O2 Sensor. It did however start with the green test connectors plugged in again...

 

How do we know if the Cam and Crank sensor are wired correctly? (We had to splice the wires in.) The Same question for the O2 Sensor.

 

It will not idle. We think the cam and/or crank may be wired backwards, which would cause the backfiring and running in Test Mode. (Test Mode does put it at a factory idle and timing setting, right?) We may have the idle air control plumed wrong. Does anyone have a vacuum diagram, or insight on this problem?

 

Thanks for the help so far everyone, This project is finally moving along, now it's just the small kinks left.

Thanks again!

Great news! I was having idling issues because of too little back pressure! I held a plate over the exhaust and it idled fine! :banana: (I'm only running the legacy Y pipe right now)

 

I *just* finished stripping my wiring harness... wow...

 

Can someone please explain the key switch to me? When looking at it, the Black/Yellow, Red, and Red/Yellow all look like they are supposed to be connected to a hot. Is this true? How is that supposed to work? :-\ Thanks!

 

It may be 2 am, but I still have a huge smile about the harness being fully stripped. Hopefully it still runs