Big Country

PICS! Sorry, Its been slow. I've been installing the STi drivetrain! I'm pretty sure I broke 2nd, but I haven't opened the transmission.

I picked up a new toy a couple of weeks ago... I don't exactly have huge plans for it yet, but there are a couple of thoughts going through my head. However, tonight I broke the tranny, so that is at the top of the priority list right now... Here is some info... Engine Mods -05 EJ257 Full STi longblock swap with AVCS -Garrett GT30r w/ .82ar exhaust housing -Full 3" downpipe -GT-Spec UEL header -Turbonetics Newgen wastegate -HKS Hipower catback -4" intake -FMIC -PE 850cc sidefeed injectors -Allstar vented catch can -ARP Headstuds -Perrin overflow tank -Hallman MBC Transmission/Drivetrain/Suspension mods -Forrester transmission -ACT street clutch -M4iF fender braces -KYB GR2 struts -17mm FHI Rear sway bar -20mm FHI Front sway bar (not installed yet) Exterior/Interior Mods -STi V6 replica wing from Bakemono Imports. -STi OEM foglight covers -04-06 STi style hood scoop -Shaved door moldings -JDM Ver.6 Taillights -Black Housing Headlights -Black housing Corners -Triple 52mm center gauge pod

Do Buicks count as a type of terrain?

Welcome! Nice cars and shop! I live in Socorro, Glad to see another Member from NM!

Well damn, at least I know that I definitely have a phase one EJ now Thanks for the info and help

Thanks for the diagram. You were right, it was the main relay. In your drawing there are 3 plugs. I'm under the impression that the obd 1 ecus have three plugs and the obd2 ecus have one large one. I'm only saying this because I have one large plug. Am I missing something? I'm asking because I know that I don't have all of the powered pins connected but it is currently running fine off of the switched power. I would like to fix this at some point. Thanks again

It ran before wires got cut, but I didn't check the main relay. Could you refresh my memory of how the pins are numbered please? I'm in the middle of a move and don't have access to my diagrams. I'll check this out in the morning, otherwise I'm headed to the junk years to pull another ecu. Thanks.

A few weeks back, my stripped wiring harness for my 95 EJ22 swap got some of its wires wrapped up around one of the front axles. A few wires were ripped, but for the most part it just unplugged the engine. Today we soldered the wires back together plugged everything in, and no love. There is no signal to turn on the fuel pump and no spark. From what I've seen while wiring the engine, the ECU grounds the Fuel Pump relay to turn it on. We manually grounded the pin for that wire, to test the the relay and it came on, but the ECU never did that while plugged in. The power and ground pins for the ecu also tested good. I've been using my scan gauge for most of my gauge readings, but when we plugged it into the OBD2 port, it would never connect. This leads me to believe that the ECU is malfunctioning. I'm assuming that it got fried when the wires snapped when wrapped up around the axle... What does everyone else think? Any ideas, experience, or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Update: As of this week, the EJ Swap is finished!

Great news! I was having idling issues because of too little back pressure! I held a plate over the exhaust and it idled fine! :banana: (I'm only running the legacy Y pipe right now) I *just* finished stripping my wiring harness... wow... Can someone please explain the key switch to me? When looking at it, the Black/Yellow, Red, and Red/Yellow all look like they are supposed to be connected to a hot. Is this true? How is that supposed to work? :-\ Thanks! It may be 2 am, but I still have a huge smile about the harness being fully stripped. Hopefully it still runs

I realize that a large portion of the members are not anywhere close to NM, but for the few there are.... The 2011 New Mexico Tech Spring Fling Mudbog Competition! Saturday April 9th!

I've never heard of fail safe mode... We tried to start it up again today, this time with the green test plugs unplugged... It didn't want to start. It backfired alot, and never started. We fixed the vacuum leaks, (so we thought) and Added an O2 Sensor. It did however start with the green test connectors plugged in again... How do we know if the Cam and Crank sensor are wired correctly? (We had to splice the wires in.) The Same question for the O2 Sensor. It will not idle. We think the cam and/or crank may be wired backwards, which would cause the backfiring and running in Test Mode. (Test Mode does put it at a factory idle and timing setting, right?) We may have the idle air control plumed wrong. Does anyone have a vacuum diagram, or insight on this problem? Thanks for the help so far everyone, This project is finally moving along, now it's just the small kinks left. Thanks again!

It Runs! ...Kinda This was a proof of concept test run. There is no O2 sensors and quite a few vacuum leaks (as you can see fingers plugging them...) After fixing the Vacuum leaks and adding a O2 sensor will the idle smooth out? Any other suggestions from anyone? Thanks. PS, the video doesn't do justice to how loud it was... It never got above 1400RPM in the video...

That makes more sense now, thanks. Did you get my PM?

Thanks for all the great info, but I have another question now. On a OBD1 Block, the cam and crank position sensors have three wires. But on a OBD2 Intake harness only has two wires for those sensors. Is the extra a ground? Thanks again.