EDIT: I did search this forum, as well as google for several hours.

 

Ok, so I have an 1987 subaru gl 3-door coupe with a 1.8l carb EA82 engine, and a 3-speed automatic push-button (single-range) 4wd. Around 120k miles. She's loud, but she runs pretty well (once she warms up).

 

The problem, the transmission just died. I was driving to school down the highway at between 50-55mph. I came up to where the road widens and the speed limit goes up to 65mph. When I pushed down the gas to accelerate, it started slipping for about 1-2 seconds, then it was like it went into neutral. I pulled over and put it in 4wd to make sure that it wasn't the axle. it wasn't. When it was in drive, from a stop, it would not shift out of first. When I had it in second, then put it into drive, it was just like neutral. I had to (reluctantly) drive home in 2nd.

 

The local junkyard's price on transmissions is only $100 plus a $20 core, auto or manual. Because I don't want to mess with an auto having the same issue as mine, I was thinking about converting to a manual. I looked around on Saturday, and they had two cars with a push-button 4wd (the rest were dual-range or fwd).

 

The first one was a 1993 Loyale wagon with an EA82 FI, a 5-speed manual. This one had about 180k miles on it, looked like they hauled hay and feed in the back. This is the one I'm leaning towards.

 

The second is a 1987 (same year as mine) GL wagon with an EA82 carb, and a 3-speed auto. This one had 150K miles on it. This one had a hitch on it, which made me a little bit nervous. I don't know what the rep on these autos are, so I don't really want to mess with it.

 

So, I want to use the manual out of the 93, but since this is my only car, I need it to work. I found a step-by-step for an EA81, but I know that the EA82 is a little bit different. So far, my searching has confused me. I have seen some people say I'll need the diff off of it (something about different gear ratios). Someone was saying the speedometer cable is a different length. I also would like what to do with the neutral safety switch. I know I'll need the pedals, flywheel, and shifter. I also know I'll probably want a new clutch, which raises another question. The inside diameter of the clutch is different between the coupe and the wagon/sedan. I'm assuming that this wouldn't be an issue as long as I get the wagon clutch, but I want to be sure.

 

I know there has got to be someone around here that has done this, and I would really appreciate any and all help available.

 

What I need to know is:

-Will the 93 fit

-was the coupe any different from the others?

-What I need

-Parts list

-tools list

-what to do (for the conversion)

-how much of a pain it will be

 

Any other info I need would be great too. The VIN is JF2AG53B6HF809071

Edited February 7, 201115 yr by Dj7291993
More info

Ditch the push button crap and use one of the dual range transmissions they have.

 

GD

won't that need a different console?

won't that need a different console?

 

You're gonna need to get a different console, shifter, and pedal box anyhow.

 

If you get a S/R, get the S/R shifter with the pushbutton and the vacuum solenoids, and cable canister.

 

If you get a D/R get the shifter with the extra lever.

 

Either one, make sure you get the front section of the rear driveline (the part with the carrier bearing) from a manual car. 5spd shorter = driveshaft longer.

 

Also, you will need a flywheel and a clutch set. Get the Longer Flywheel to crank bolts with the flywheel.

ok, sounds like the d/r might be simpler. Is there any special tools I need? Also, what do I do with the hill holder? should I just disconnect the lines (i know I need to to pull the fork back, my dad has an 88 fwd 5-speed, fork prong broke, that cable caused a LOT of hassle, till we tied it up)? I don't really feel like trying to hook up the brake thing (unless it is extremely simple.

 

Thanks for the help!

No need to swap the hill holder over, just undo the cable when you pull the d/r out of the donor car and leave it there.

 

Get the transmission crossmembers AND the bolts that hold it to the body.

 

Flywheel and bolts

Clutch

Pedal box and cable

shift linkages and console cover with boot

Transmission with it's section of wiring harness, cut the plugs off the donor

Spedometer cable

crossmembers with bolts

front section to the carrier bearing of rear driveshaft

 

Don't forget to bring a punch for the front axle roll pins other than that no special tools.

really, cuz my dad's car wouldn't drive right without it. Okay, thanks. Also, I don't need the diff, right?

To get you by until you are set for your swap, you could just fix the governor valve in your 3AT. Externally accessible, not too hard to do.

how?

To get you by until you are set for your swap, you could just fix the governor valve in your 3AT. Externally accessible, not too hard to do.

Check out this How-to:

http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/Transmission/Governor/ATgovenorclean.htm

Edited February 8, 201115 yr by NorthWet

Cleaning the governor can resurrect a transmission that won't move? I had governor problems and it was just extremely reluctant to shift out of 1st in Drive. I'm buying an '86 wagon with a supposed "dead" 3AT, that would be nice if the governor may make it work...

will the car go into 2nd if you manually move the lever to 2nd?

yes. (sorry if you were talking to the other guy).

Miles was probably answering the other guy.

 

The governor valve only affects how the transmission automatically shifts while in "D"rive. If the tranny functions in "L" and "2" (and R and N also), but acts funny in "D", then the problem is usually governor valve related. Common issues are that it gets gummed-up and/or the driven gear on it gets excessively worn ("applecored").

Quick Question. Since I'll have to take off the exhaust, what type of sealer/gasket should I use? Without taking it off, it looks like rtv.

Fresh gaskets. Be very careful taking the nuts off the studs that hold it to the heads, the heads like to strip. They can be helicoiled or tapped to a standard thread size, but it's best to be really gentle taking them out.

Quick Question. Since I'll have to take off the exhaust, what type of sealer/gasket should I use? Without taking it off, it looks like rtv.

To clarify, Is this in regards to the swap, or the buy-me-some-time tranny fix? (The latter does not involve touching the exhaust, but there might be some misunderstanding here. )

 

Regardless, as 91Loyale typed, get new exhaust gaskets. Opinion seems to run towards Subaru dealer's gaskets for exhaust and intake. I would not expect to see RTV ANYWHERE near the exhaust system; this just sounds odd.

No, it's for the swap. I didn't think it was rtv, but it looks like it. Is about $14 each sound right (that's what Heuberger told me)?

It's apple cored. Guess the temp fix won't work.

 

It's apple cored. Guess the temp fix won't work...

 

Temp fix could work, just will cost another $40 for a new driven gear. Your choice, but I would probably still think it is worth it to buy me time.

What is it called? I called the dealer, and he couldn't find a governor valve. Any ideas?

Probably should be asking for the governor gear, or governor driven gear, or maybe throw "valve" somewhere in there.

 

I have a couple laying around here (somewhere!!!) with the part number still on them, and a receipt somewhere that also has the part number... unfortunately, neither is going to be located tonight.

 

(OK, well I tried to find the receipt, but it must be in some silly receipt box instead of with the car. Hmph!)

 

After nosing around in SEARCH, about the best I can do for you is a number which may or may not be valid: 31450AA021. It comes from this thread:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=93817

 

I suspect it may be an assembly rather than a gear.

 

I get frustrated talking to dealerships on the phone, so I usually just go in and direct their visual search for the part. (Computer-age version of microfiche...) It is not uncommon for even a decent a parts person to not have a clue about older models.

well, I'll have to try that. Thanks btw. Gonna go pull it tomorrow. Wish me luck.

Going to pull what/which? From the picture, I would guess that you had already pulled the governor... are you pulling the tranny? If so, heavy, nasty, annoying work. I think of it like having my wisdom teeth pulled: I am glad that they did them all at once, 'cuz I never would have gone back for the rest.

 

Definitely good luck on doing an R&R. Did I mention that the tranny is heavy?

Ok, phase one completed... well, almost. I got the trany, flywheel, drive shaft, clutch, ect. Didn't have time for the pedals, have to do that tomorrow. Had the transmission unbolted completely by about 1:00pm, spent the next 3 hours trying to wiggle it off two studs. Came to tell us we had to leave as I was taking off the flywheel. For the console, instruments, transmission, driveshaft and the cross member came to about $209 with the cores.

 

That brings me to a question though, should I just take the 3eat back for the $20 core, or should I try to sell it? The governor gear is $43 plus tax. What should I sell it for, or should I even bother?

 

Also, thanks for all the help you guys have given so far, any tips on axles though?

 

Edit: I did know it was heavy. Had to move a bunch (probly 20-30) from a shed last year at school so they could build a new shed.

Edited February 12, 201115 yr by Dj7291993