02' Legacy GT - headlights wiring

[740gle]

They do go out intermittently, one at a time. Just re-plugging the bulb, or sometimes even a gentle wack on the headlight brings it back.

The crimped connector to the bulb is crappy - insulation is crumbled, oxidation, etc..

Contact cleaner brings some temporary relief, but it's obvious that piece of a wiring harness, or at least the bulb plug has to be replaced.

How can I take that harness piece out? There is a white plastic thingy, that holds harness to the body, and looks like a connector (see pics attached), but I cannot figure out how to disconnect it.

Any help is greatly appreciated...

 

-Michael

[Cougar]

In the second picture of the connector the side coming up from the bottom slides out of the top section. There may be a tab on the bottom section you need to press on while pulling down on the lower section.

[ShawnW]

The dealer sells that little harness piece and its not terribly expensive.

 

As noted, it has a tab that is hidden. Needs to be pressed toward the center of the connector.

[Allpar Mod]

Shawn's advice is sound. When electrical connectors give that kind of trouble, it's time to replace them. The issue will only get worse until you have a complete circuit failure. Corrosion causes increased resistance in an electrical circuit. Aside from a failure in the circuit, it also can cause difficulty for the correct amperage of current to travel along the circuit and will cause issues like dim lighting, blown fuses, etc. Fix it.

 

When you do replace the connectors, splice them a ways back from the connector itself. Corrosion tends to attempt to travel along the wires so there's a decent chance that there is some corrosion along the wires a short distance from the connectors. Also, do not just use splice connectors alone. They will corrode themselves. If you know how to solder, this old school method is best for electrical connections that are in corrosion prone areas. The proper technique of "hot soldering" splices is easy to learn if you haven't done it before and the supplies aren't terribly expensive. If not, use whatever type of splice connectors you can and coat the connectors with liquid electrical tape. This brush on product is available at Radio Shack and the electrical isle at Home Depot, Lowes, etc. This is likely one of the best insulation products I've found in recent days. I use it for things like exposed relays and other weather exposed connections and it does an excellent job protecting the corrosion prone wire connections. Another good thing is that the dried liquid tape can be easily removed for repairs later. The bad thing about this product is the limited shelf life once opened for the first time. It will not last forever, much like PVC glue. It's still very much worth buying if you repair electrical/electronic connections that are exposed to the elements.

Edited February 20, 2011 by Allpar Mod

[740gle]

Thanks for the advice guys, if there is a way to replace it, I'd rather try it, do you remember what is the official name of that harness?

I tried to pull the top up, I'll try to pull the bottom part out. There is indeed something that may be a "tab" on this connector, it's a bit cruddy there, does this tab just have to be pushed in from the outside, or pried out with a screwdriver?

 

I was thinking of crimping, not soldering. I know how to solder, but I am not very good at it. I can get a good crimper at work, but I'd have to take the wiring out.

I am familiar with liquid tape, had to deal with it applied by the previous owner on my old Volvo...

It's a good product, but leaves a mess, as you mentioned - once you open the jar, if it's not used - it's a waste. I'd rather like a shrink tubing, you just have to make sure that the right size is used.

 

-Michael

[740gle]

I've managed to find that magic tab and disconnect the part from the bottom,

but in order to replace the headlight harness I'd need to take out the top part, and it is fastened to the black plastic wall. I pried it a bit, it loosened but did not come out. Before I do more damage - is there a magic trick of taking it out, or is it just supposed to be forced out and get disposed and is replaced as part of the new headlight harness?

[Cougar]

I think it is part of the replacement piece. I suggest you leave the piece in place and get a new part. Then you should be able to figure out how to remove the old piece. There may be some tabs on the other side that need to be compressed together in order to remove it.

[johnceggleston]

i did this on a 95 lego. i bought a generic part from the parts store and spliced it in. it cost <$5.

 

i don't know if '02s are different.

[740gle]

I just ordered replacement harness from Liberty Subaru.

Another option would be to re-crimp new connector that goes on the bulb, not sure if I could find a new one. It goes on the H3 that is used for low-beams and DRL. I think 95' is different design.

Of all the car, I guess the headlights are specifically designed to US spec - and they are absolutely horrible. While the rest of the wiring in the car is in a fairly nice shape so far, the headlight wiring is clearly under-specified the insulation started crumbling and melting away after about a year into cars life.