I need to have the front rotors on my 2000 OBW turned. Stamped on the rotor is 'minimum thickness 22 mm.' Presently they are 24 mm. Does that give enough thickness to survive lathe turning and still be thick enough? TIA.

You gotta allow for the "groove" you're trying to take out.

 

Generally anymore folks replace rather than turn them. They are already typically heading towards warpage and have had many, many heat cycles.

 

My local place is 8 bucks to turn then and I buy new instead. Only exception is if it's just due to rust from setting.

 

 

The shop that's gonna cut them should be able to tell you.

No groove.

Since you said U need to, then it's time to replace. 2mm is right small. The previous info is Great:) as usual about hard spots etc. If you are near needing pads, then that is most the work right there. The rotor isn't going to explode or anything until way under the min.

FWIW I spent a day with a regular engine lathe , finageling..mounting relocating ,measuring, cutting a Toyota rotor. (A brake lathe is a different animal) In the end what was killing me were those "hard spots" .

It was only worth the knowledge. Carquest --$19.00 ea.

sounds like they'll turn fine to me, the shop will check them for you. i have them turned all the time now that there's a cheap place right across the street from where i work. there's a good chance the original subaru's are higher quality steel than the generic auto store stuff.

The reason I mentioned is that he said he Needed to. I agree the origional iron is likely .. better than the replacement. Just saying if he's already there doing pads (why else was he checking) then that would be the time. Anyway Fairfax eats...brakes that is. Heck without glazed areas or warped or contaminated greased in, That rotor would last way beyond the next set of pads.

I have replaced the rotors on my 97 Lego twice.. I live in the mountians so its a normal thing. Most of the shops around here charge at least $25 each to rotate them, I head to the closest parts store and viola! $25 each for brand new ones..so yeah you might as well pick up new ones as the cost of turning them will be about the same. Shiny new parts:banana:

Since you said U need to, then it's time to replace. 2mm is right small.

 

I would imagine 1mm per side to be plenty to get out hard spots and groves unless they run really deep.

 

 

FWIW I spent a day with a regular engine lathe , finageling..mounting relocating ,measuring, cutting a Toyota rotor. (A brake lathe is a different animal) In the end what was killing me were those "hard spots" .

 

those hard spots are hell if you you're using a high speed tool. Carbide is the way to go, cuts right through it.

 

I agree that turning rotors in an engine lathe is a fairly laborious setup compared to what it costs to have a shop with a brake lathe do it or buying new. But it is good exercise in 4 jaw chuck setup and indicator use.

 

Will-

Yeh, Will. I didn't want to go thru all that in prev . Certainly Carbide and it certainly needs oriented upon the carraige so that when cutting one side it remains the same without remounting. I didn't have all the cone attachments at the time. I had some crazy setups with the compound slide backwards. Stuff to reach around and achieve concentric on the two faces. In the end I opted to See what brake lathes do, which is two longass cutting bars going against each other.

I don't remember excactly for there are different designs. Only thing I know is that relocation for the other side was a b 4 me and I found that measurable error was too far 4 Too much work.

I certainly woulda, if neccessary. 'Twernt .

Edited March 18, 201115 yr by Fuzpile