soobies Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 as you guys have helped me greatly with the subaru.. ... before i get into the symptoms that i am going to explain .. first thing is i ve done all the timing its set correctly and fixed the solenoid and they are working was all good until like this week.. now the car is idling 2000 rpm and if i jab the throttle it dies so i tried to start it started right up just fine 700~800 rpm then it started to climb up to 2k then i decided to go ease on the throttle and it will not rev past 3000 to 4k acted like it has hesistation.. i cleaned all the works went through all the electrics solenoid , spfi, etc that i could think of back tracing to see what i did wrong and found everything is fine even the maf, etc already swapped the spfi, maf, and other misc.. no change.. i am stumped i even have sprayed carb cleaner around the intake, hoses, no change .. i think the car is giving me a nightmare since i got it for free !!!! it sure is making me want to get rid of it .. but i want to give it a last chance try at this to solve this problem... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 (edited) i already swapped the spfi, maf, and other misc.. no change.. Im assuming this is a EA82 car. What do you mean by spfi, -throttle body assy? Have you tested the CTS & TPS with an ohm meter. What about the IAC valve? A fuel pressure test needs to be high on the list as well. Are you running the car with the intake boot/MAF/air filter box dissasembled in any way? The MAF is very sensitive and may cause similar symptoms if its not getting proper air flow across its elements while the vehicle is running. Edited April 13, 2011 by ihscout54 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobies Posted April 13, 2011 Author Share Posted April 13, 2011 yes i have checked the throttle body ( spfi= single point injection ) yes its a ea 82 89 subaru gl i have checked every thing i could think of and went through whole thing i even swapped everything out from iac to spfi to maf to what ever i could find on the car same symptoms... humm i dont think its the fuel pump that is going out .. the fuel pump pumps every 3 seconds when i turn key on . and it pumps just fine and yeah i have checked the intake boot they are on snugged right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 already swapped the spfi My understanding of it is that the SPFI (single port fuel injection) is a labeling for the system as a whole. When you say youve "swapped" it are you saying the whole system or just the injector? It sounds like you know what your doing, but now frustrated. DONT give in to throwing parts... test them! Do you have access to the factory service manual and a digital ohm meter? The manual has excellent trouble trees and what youre gunna need to do is "follow the tree" There is a link on here to the manual if not. Ill gladly find it for you, if needed. the fuel pump pumps every 3 seconds when i turn key on . and it pumps just fine This system is designed to run at a specific pressure. Weather or not the fuel pump, pumps fuel you need to check the fuel pressure. I belive it should be 21 psi, SOME ONE CORRECT ME IF IM WRONG! Its a PITA to do since theres no port inline, but you need to rule out a faulty pressure regulator, fuel filter, plugged return line, a weak pump etc. Your symptoms could be a plugged return line, especially if youve swapped out the entire SPFI system. Another thought....Hows the fuel? Bad fuel can do some wild things as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misledxcracker Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 Every 3 seconds? Are the green diagnostic connectors plugged into each other? Disconnect them if so... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 (edited) Every 3 seconds? Are the green diagnostic connectors plugged into each other? Disconnect them if so... Agreed... Nice catch, people plug the 2 diagnostic connectors together thinking they should be connected. Hence if the green ones are connected the white ones may be too... Edited April 14, 2011 by ihscout54 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobies Posted April 14, 2011 Author Share Posted April 14, 2011 (edited) the green plug is plugged to green plug with eachother and no white plugs.. ( bad fuel?) i did thought that at first so i dumped 10 gallons of gas put it in my truck and put 5 gallons of fresh gas and my truck is working fine on that 10 gallons of gas i took out of the subaru. i left the way it is (when i got it ) i didnt want to mess with the wiring so i left it alone and yes i changed whole spfi not just fuel injector the whole body and i have spare ones sitting in the car in case which i did swap out a while back when i first got that car after changing timing belt still spot on disty spot on .. new solenoid. it ran flawlessly and til recently i dont know what it has changed.. yeah its driving me nuts i put in brand new radiator, alternator, whats next?? after all its a free car ... how many regulators is it supposed to have i know there's one in line and one return line the round ugly green regulator. and i was under the car just to see if exhaust has been bent or cat plugged. and while i was under it . is it supposed to have another regulator by the fuel pump ? and to add on top of it i forgot to add one thing is i noticed is lots of black spattering allover in the snow while you try to rev it from exhaust .. not as if its wet but more dry like carboned up does it mean plugged catalyic converter ? or other thing it is running rich very rich from what i know of but that's one other thing to check .. but i want to check other things first before hacking the exhaust system up but just not familar with subaru thats why i am hitting on this forums i am more of a 2 stroke sled head than a gear head on cars Edited April 14, 2011 by soobies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 how many regulators is it supposed to have i know there's one in line and one return line the round ugly green regulator. Those are not regulators, they are dampeners. The pressure regulator is on the TB where the fuel lines connect. Have you checked for codes? Im going to say the same things again, have you tested the CTS (coolant temp sender) with an ohm meter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rumblee Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 I would take a real hard look at your maf sensor and all the piping associated with it. Usually an unplugged maf sensor or a leak behind it will cause something just like this. Try starting it up and unplugging the maf sensor. If nothing changes in the way its running that is likely your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobies Posted April 14, 2011 Author Share Posted April 14, 2011 Those are not regulators, they are dampeners. The pressure regulator is on the TB where the fuel lines connect. Have you checked for codes? Im going to say the same things again, have you tested the CTS (coolant temp sender) with an ohm meter? coolant temp sender brand new.. and no code throwing out all it blinks 5 over and over since i have fixed all of the solenoids.. after that it dont wanna to run right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakertom Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 You say "the green plug is plugged to green plug with eachother" and people have told you twice to disconnect them. (When they are connected, you are disabling the electronic vacuum advance.) Are you using NGK plugs? Do you have good ground connections from your engine to frame? Did you use some sealant when you installed your throttle body temperature sensor? How did you correctly set your timing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobies Posted April 15, 2011 Author Share Posted April 15, 2011 You say "the green plug is plugged to green plug with eachother" and people have told you twice to disconnect them. (When they are connected, you are disabling the electronic vacuum advance.) Are you using NGK plugs? Do you have good ground connections from your engine to frame? Did you use some sealant when you installed your throttle body temperature sensor? How did you correctly set your timing? yes new ngk .. i already checked the ground and yes i did use sealant to do the sensors . i followed the timing procedure on here 3 hash mark on the fly wheel and do the timing belt and the cam timing mark is at 12 o clock done then do the other timing but must do 360 degree so it will be 6 o clock on other cam and the other one must be at 12 o clock like i said i have done according to here so it has to be something else! yes i know people have told me twice the green plug has to be unplugged but i am *telling* you that when i bought the car i left everything else alone i just replaced what was broken.. solenoid, replaced spfi , maf and other things you could think of .. like when you are going to get a car say sitting in yard for 25 years you would go through alot of things just to make sure things are right so i used that process to get it running it ran great when i finally got it fixed it lasted like few months during very cold winters .. in montana then now it runs like weird.. since things are warming up.. makes me think there is leak somewhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 intake gaskets is something to consider with the high adle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobies Posted April 15, 2011 Author Share Posted April 15, 2011 intake gaskets is something to consider with the high adle i was thinking of that it does fit the symptoms of intake air leak.. and possibly why its running funny and and it makes the ecu think " ooh its running lean i better feed my engine more fuel (rich) "plus sign of black smoke coming out the tail pipe meaning rich i would think .. it does make sense .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobies Posted April 16, 2011 Author Share Posted April 16, 2011 updated.... i just went through everything to double check what i have missed. unplugging every crook and crannies on the wiring you name it on the engine bay went out bought intake gasket.. will put in new one tomorrow. i never noticed a little weep of a antifreeze coolant on top of the area where the intake gasket sits on (head) very small weeping is all then its gone passenger side as i assume its the intake gasket which i am hoping its just that gasket not head gasket.. but anyway.. for just hell out of it .. i started it up.. runs nicely and smooth . idle is a little bit tad high 1k rpm.. ill get to the intake gasket in tomorrow. but i still dont know what the hell i fixed to make it idle smoothly and all i just went through all the connectors unplugged sprayed with carb cleaner and plugged it back on every plugs i could find and yes i did on the harness too as well (magically its fixed) humm.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakertom Posted April 16, 2011 Share Posted April 16, 2011 Sorry, but I can't follow your logic about not disconnecting the green connector. You have missed my point about using sealant around your temperature sensor - ask yourself how a sensor with one wire might not be able to work properly if it is insulated where it is supposed to be grounded... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobies Posted April 16, 2011 Author Share Posted April 16, 2011 electrical decrease sealant to keep the corrosion from eating the wires up i checked the green plug and it was connected so i disconnected it and left it alone but i did the whole electrical harness cleaning on every plugs there is on the car runs fine now and i do not know why it was plugged the way it was until you guys mentioned unplug it and presto it runs fine still idling a little high though went ahead fixed the intake gasket now its idling at 700 ~800 rpm at 20 degrees but makes the car starting easier than before when it started to misbehave.. now next to other project .. fix the damn cv joint axle ( someone told me it was making clicking sound ) why someone told me that is because i am deaf and cant really hear the click so i checked to see and ill have to go buy new hub and cv joint ugh! the cv joint axle is spinning around the hub. might as well go ahead replace BOTH! as preventative measure (already tried tightening it up and checked the washer it is in right place no go) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted April 16, 2011 Share Posted April 16, 2011 i even have sprayed carb cleaner around the intake, hoses, no change already swapped the spfi changed whole spfi not just fuel injector I assumed you had checked the intake gaskets... After replacing them. You did say you swapped the SPFI... I asked several times what you were considering "spfi"and you said the whole thing. SPFI swap is a common term around here and it lead me to belive you swapped the whole entire system (manifold and all). Im still not sure what part you are calling SPFI. Must be the throttle body assembly (though I asked that). You have missed my point about using sealant around your temperature sensor - ask yourself how a sensor with one wire might not be able to work properly if it is insulated where it is supposed to be grounded... electrical decrease sealant to keep the corrosion from eating the wires up Looks like hes still missing the point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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