soobies

it sounds like cable is stretching or the clutch is on way out, few other things could make it do that, riding the clutch... not adjusted properly, throw out bearings, etc etc hill stopper/hill holder has nothing to do with clutch. it just holds the brakes when you stop on a hill with clutch in and brake on then let go the brake while clutch is in (holds the car on the hill)

sounds like a bad cv joint or a bad ujoint with your description..

do you have any cold spots in your radiator usually it is sign of radiator being plugged up and if it is thats your problem...

the current mileage :cool::cool:

is your hub nuts tight ? i had that similar symptoms so i just went out replaced new hub, bearings, and cv joint because my splines in there were worn out just in case and it fixed that problem

i did freak out on the 89 subaru i have i was like why is it spinning at 3000 to 4000 rpm down on the high way and its pretty normal for a subaru.. they are pretty descent car if you take care of them they will last almost forever

electrical decrease sealant to keep the corrosion from eating the wires up i checked the green plug and it was connected so i disconnected it and left it alone but i did the whole electrical harness cleaning on every plugs there is on the car runs fine now and i do not know why it was plugged the way it was until you guys mentioned unplug it and presto it runs fine still idling a little high though went ahead fixed the intake gasket now its idling at 700 ~800 rpm at 20 degrees but makes the car starting easier than before when it started to misbehave.. now next to other project .. fix the damn cv joint axle ( someone told me it was making clicking sound ) why someone told me that is because i am deaf and cant really hear the click so i checked to see and ill have to go buy new hub and cv joint ugh! the cv joint axle is spinning around the hub. might as well go ahead replace BOTH! as preventative measure (already tried tightening it up and checked the washer it is in right place no go)

updated.... i just went through everything to double check what i have missed. unplugging every crook and crannies on the wiring you name it on the engine bay went out bought intake gasket.. will put in new one tomorrow. i never noticed a little weep of a antifreeze coolant on top of the area where the intake gasket sits on (head) very small weeping is all then its gone passenger side as i assume its the intake gasket which i am hoping its just that gasket not head gasket.. but anyway.. for just hell out of it .. i started it up.. runs nicely and smooth . idle is a little bit tad high 1k rpm.. ill get to the intake gasket in tomorrow. but i still dont know what the hell i fixed to make it idle smoothly and all i just went through all the connectors unplugged sprayed with carb cleaner and plugged it back on every plugs i could find and yes i did on the harness too as well (magically its fixed) humm..

i was thinking of that it does fit the symptoms of intake air leak.. and possibly why its running funny and and it makes the ecu think " ooh its running lean i better feed my engine more fuel (rich) "plus sign of black smoke coming out the tail pipe meaning rich i would think .. it does make sense ..

yes new ngk .. i already checked the ground and yes i did use sealant to do the sensors . i followed the timing procedure on here 3 hash mark on the fly wheel and do the timing belt and the cam timing mark is at 12 o clock done then do the other timing but must do 360 degree so it will be 6 o clock on other cam and the other one must be at 12 o clock like i said i have done according to here so it has to be something else! yes i know people have told me twice the green plug has to be unplugged but i am *telling* you that when i bought the car i left everything else alone i just replaced what was broken.. solenoid, replaced spfi , maf and other things you could think of .. like when you are going to get a car say sitting in yard for 25 years you would go through alot of things just to make sure things are right so i used that process to get it running it ran great when i finally got it fixed it lasted like few months during very cold winters .. in montana then now it runs like weird.. since things are warming up.. makes me think there is leak somewhere

coolant temp sender brand new.. and no code throwing out all it blinks 5 over and over since i have fixed all of the solenoids.. after that it dont wanna to run right.

the green plug is plugged to green plug with eachother and no white plugs.. ( bad fuel?) i did thought that at first so i dumped 10 gallons of gas put it in my truck and put 5 gallons of fresh gas and my truck is working fine on that 10 gallons of gas i took out of the subaru. i left the way it is (when i got it ) i didnt want to mess with the wiring so i left it alone and yes i changed whole spfi not just fuel injector the whole body and i have spare ones sitting in the car in case which i did swap out a while back when i first got that car after changing timing belt still spot on disty spot on .. new solenoid. it ran flawlessly and til recently i dont know what it has changed.. yeah its driving me nuts i put in brand new radiator, alternator, whats next?? after all its a free car ... how many regulators is it supposed to have i know there's one in line and one return line the round ugly green regulator. and i was under the car just to see if exhaust has been bent or cat plugged. and while i was under it . is it supposed to have another regulator by the fuel pump ? and to add on top of it i forgot to add one thing is i noticed is lots of black spattering allover in the snow while you try to rev it from exhaust .. not as if its wet but more dry like carboned up does it mean plugged catalyic converter ? or other thing it is running rich very rich from what i know of but that's one other thing to check .. but i want to check other things first before hacking the exhaust system up but just not familar with subaru thats why i am hitting on this forums i am more of a 2 stroke sled head than a gear head on cars

yes i have checked the throttle body ( spfi= single point injection ) yes its a ea 82 89 subaru gl i have checked every thing i could think of and went through whole thing i even swapped everything out from iac to spfi to maf to what ever i could find on the car same symptoms... humm i dont think its the fuel pump that is going out .. the fuel pump pumps every 3 seconds when i turn key on . and it pumps just fine and yeah i have checked the intake boot they are on snugged right

as you guys have helped me greatly with the subaru.. ... before i get into the symptoms that i am going to explain .. first thing is i ve done all the timing its set correctly and fixed the solenoid and they are working was all good until like this week.. now the car is idling 2000 rpm and if i jab the throttle it dies so i tried to start it started right up just fine 700~800 rpm then it started to climb up to 2k then i decided to go ease on the throttle and it will not rev past 3000 to 4k acted like it has hesistation.. i cleaned all the works went through all the electrics solenoid , spfi, etc that i could think of back tracing to see what i did wrong and found everything is fine even the maf, etc already swapped the spfi, maf, and other misc.. no change.. i am stumped i even have sprayed carb cleaner around the intake, hoses, no change .. i think the car is giving me a nightmare since i got it for free !!!! it sure is making me want to get rid of it .. but i want to give it a last chance try at this to solve this problem...

i solved all other problems yay me ... but execpt the stupid ecu led light spitting error 34...... error 34 ... error 34 .. im like aw shaddap! i know you are complaining about the egr not working, tried new selenoid no help no go .. i checked to see if there is any open circuit without the selenoid .. and it is open thought i might have a break in the wire .. nope it tested out fine would it be a bad ecu ??... i still think something is not right so any ideas what i could do and its bugging the crap out of me so to my sheer defeat! i yanked the cel light out .... .. and i am back on this never ending bottomless pit of ultimate subaru message board .. begging for help to the subaru gods to help me out and hope i am not being punished for who ever did to the poor car before me lol

replaced the selnoid off from a toyota both of the selenoid but still throwing egr code.. i checked the selenoid both works but i am thinking maybe broken line somewhere along it .. so i would like to have some suggestion what i could do with it ?

umm where is the how to on those resistor trick for those egr' and the purge and i already tried search function it came up nothing i must be doing it wrong

where is the purge selnoid ? i found the egr selenoid but not the purge and ill get to the coolant sensor tomorrow.. might as well head to the junk yard and find one i hope those still works

ha!! i went through the same thing i was cleaning the car up and accidentally hit that switch i didnt know what it was for was wondering why the lights were still on and someone on here told me oh check on the top of the steering column .. its pretty common and its called the "virgin light"

ugh i just looked it up .. purge, coolant temp sensor and egr selnoid.. looks like i will have to either hit up junk yard or order new parts and thank you guys you all peeps have helped me out tons.... and this place is the first place i stopped in to get information out of here . got it running a while back timing and disty issues solved .. ran good for a while until it started to behaving badly like a spoiled little girl..

i should have put in the header up here 89 subaru gl i need to brush up on reading them lol

according to the trouble shooting code on here .. if i am reading it correctly would that be the egr selnoid trouble 2 long 3 short or is it 3 short 4 long ?? and i posted up on youtube and tell me if i am reading it correctly and hopefully i am right if not let me know and it may shed the light to why its kinda hard to start and a little bit of hesistation ..

im gonna look into reading so i know what to look for

that was my plan to check it out the previous owner changed the cv joint drive line straight from junkyard and slapped it in there .. so i'm hoping it is not that bad and if it is ill put on new bearings and two new cv joint drive line so i don't have to worry about it the hub nut was two turns loose so i tightened it back noise is gone no more grinding i didn't drive the car while it was grinding i just put it in neutral and coasted then put it in 4wd noise gone no grinding just limped back home. nothing beats a subaru. it will keep going even if its half broken

i was driving down on the high way and all of sudden a grinding sound, and rpm racing up i pull over and looked over thought it was cv joint the pin that goes into the transaxel fell out of something HUMM.. nothing wrong so tried it it wouldnt move.. i was thinking oh ************ hope its not the clutch that went out .. tried the 4 wheel drive put her in 4h. drove fine no noises proceeded to head to the cabin and check it out what the hell it was about it turned out that the previous owner did not tighten the hub nut enough and i checked the other side and it looked snug and nice and then on the drivers side the washer was loose i had to use pipe wrench and tighten it up and its fixed . the cotter pin on that driver side was gone so i didnt have anything to lock it in place so i got a bit creative.. i used 4 inch wood nail and i put it in and locked it problem solved til tomorrow so i can go out and get new cotter pin.