I know what your thinking. Not another torque bind post! I have a '95 auto with 204k miles. I have torque bind the last 2 years.

 

I have been running in the summer with the solenoid activated in order to run with 2 wheel drive. But posts here have made me scared that the solenoid will fail since it isn't really supposed to be activated for long periods of time.

 

I've changed [drain/fill] the ATF three times but this doesn't seem to do any good. Maybe I shouldn't have used the generic Advanced Auto fluid?

 

Anyway, I read ALL the torque bind posts and I know everyone's opinion! [i really do] But is there anyone here who used the limited slip stuff [Trans X, GM LSD, Lucas LSD, NAPA LSD] and has run their car for a long time [say 50K] without a problem?

have you tried tight turns in reverse. some have said this loosened up their clutches. you issue may be grooves in the drum.

I have run Trans-X for about 30K miles with no issues. I use Trans-X to curb slow trany engagement from Park to Drive. It works fine for that. I have never had a torque bind issue.

Trans-x swells seals, which is why it works for the very specific 99-00 4eat delayed engagement. It won't help much for torque bind.

 

Agree with grooves worn in the transfer clutch drum. If it goes away with the FWD fuse in, but isn't cured by changing the fluid, the clutch plates are having a hard time moving around. Generic dex/merc fluid works fine.

 

It's not too hard to get into the transfer clutch, you can do it with the trans in the car no problem.

ut is there anyone here who used the limited slip stuff [Trans X, GM LSD, Lucas LSD, NAPA LSD] and has run their car for a long time [say 50K] without a problem?

Absolutely do not ever use Limited Slip Differential additive of any kind in an automatic transmission.

Does your power light flash on startup? I've done a lot of transfer solenoids, and every one of them required replacing the transfer clutch pack & drum due to grooving. (The "failsafe" mode of the transfer solenoid is full pressure to the clutches, driving around with it like that causes the clutches to wear grooves in the drum, which causes the plates to "Stick", causing torque bind) It will usually start out as kind of a "grab and slip" type feeling, like you will turn a corner and you will feel it bind but then it will release. Once the grooves get deep enough they won't release.

Additives won't help, the problem is the clutches are engaged and doing their job (holding), the only way to make the bind go away with an additive would be to add something that would make the clutches not hold, which would also make the rest of the transmission not hold, which would not be a good thing.

I would recommend replacing the clutch pack and drum (It's not that hard, can be done in the car, you'll need the clutch pack, drum, and extension housing gasket. If you are nervous about it, it should only cost $6-700 or so to have the dealership fix it, I think book time on it is ~4.0 hours. I would also recommend using the "ATF-HP" fluid (it's in the silver bottle, is the 5EAT fluid) it's a very high quality fluid, and actually improves the performance of the 4EAT.

OK, I'm convinced. No additives.

 

But is it better to drive around without the solenoid activated? The torque bind is only a little annoying except in tight turns. Or should I put the fuse in and drive 2 wheel during the spring, summer, and fall which is what I prefer? If by continuously activating the solenoid, it eventually fails am I any worse off? I could just do the repair at that time. Or, I already have 204K miles and maybe it will last until 300K [at which time I can put the car to sleep].

 

There's no check engine flashing and no codes. And I did a ton of circles, frontward and backward with no effect.