MRduke Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 Maybe I'm crazy, but after I did a water pump only job, this little spot started dripping just a little more than before. The filters on tight, I dont think its the pressure unit there...can't really trace a lick of it....?! And then this little box on top...sorry, my hunt for what it is has been poor; really I just want to figure out why it ticks/clicks with the engine ON (not started), at 1-2sec intervals...something wrong with it? (Part with tube into it and black cylinder stickin out) Part of the TOD prefunk party? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 Your leak may very well be the oil filter. And if its tight, too tight, it can squish the rubber seal past its mating surface. It probably was not a good fit to begin with, and frankly, i would not be the first to tell you that the fram filter is the worst choice. Go with a napa 1361, napa silver 21361, or a wix 51361, as all of these filters are manufactured by WIX, which is a top brand. Aside from horror stories on fram..... The other piece is the purge control solenoid. Funny how it is actually working, since every ea82 i had always threw the code for it and perpetual check engine lite, although its function is arbitrary, and was sort of an engineering afterthought ot retrofit to meet specs for the USDM requirements. This part controls the venting from the gas tank to the charcoal canister and to the intake to suck off hydrocarbons. If this part fails, you can simply cap off the charcoal can on the hose that pulls vacuum. Or you can trick the ecu with a resistor to think its present to not trip the check engine lite. How you describe it seems to be normal function. I am not too familiar with working ones. Be careful not to break off the nipples for the vac lines, or the little filter thing on the back, as it is easy to do if you just bump into it while doing other things. The other one farther back is for the EGR. They both work the same, but one is straight through, and the other one has a 90 angle for the lines Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRduke Posted May 13, 2011 Author Share Posted May 13, 2011 Busted on the Fram filter!!! I knew right after I put up that pic that I would get called out...didnt read about Frams here til after I did my first oil change on the gal. Though, it had that drip with the old filter too, non Fram but cheap still. Glad my purge solenoid is working! Woo...hoo? The only CL codes I have are 35 (I've read to ignore) and 14 (I've cleaned and jiggled the pronged connector at the injector, but I don't think its cleared). Just put a nice sticker over the light for now; 28-30mpg...once ina while I peel back a corner to see if its still on. Yep. Thanks for the insight Miles! And also for your online guides and videos! Shuffled in a ton of confidence for this little job. ...just hoping that 3ft pipe did the job on the crank bolt...he, he... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 Taking a better look at the picture, i can imagine the oil coming form the shaft seal. I can see that you have done the mating surface seal, but if its the old shaft seal, it can be leaking. You can take off the pulley by removing the nut with the belt still on, then remove the pulley, and do the seal. You can do this without removing the pump. You will undo the driver side timing belt. Install the pulley and tighten the bolt after the timing belt is installed. The only compromise is removing the timing belt, but that is why its recommended to just ditch the inner and outer covers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.