May 17, 201114 yr I'm not familiar with that brand of meter and Cougar has offered good suggestions, but I would also double check the leads are plugged in at the right channels on the meter. Some meters have multiple inputs for the red lead depending on what you are trying to measure. Good luck w/ your repair.
May 17, 201114 yr When you get your meter straight, you connect the probes to each end of the same wire. Pretty much any resistance setting will work fine for this. We all started there, staring at the hieroglyphics on the little box with wires sticking out of it going wtf does this do? Practice makes perfect, but even after using various multi-meters for 10 years or better now, I still don't know how to use half the settings on some of them.
May 18, 201114 yr Author Havent had a chance to test the wires according to Cougars instructions but I did manage to talk with the last mechanic to work on the subaie before it was trailered to me. Here is what he said he did ..... Replaced coil pack Replaced ignitor Replaced ECU tested coil to ignitor wires - ok tested ignitor to ecu wires - ok test fire coil pack - ok test ohms to knock sensor - ok test ohms to new crank sensor - ok test ohms to new cam sensor - ok test run with cam sensor disconnected - no run test run with crank sensor disconnected - no run test run with knock sensor diconnected - no run test run with MAF disconnected - CEL on runs bad Flash ECM - Runs OK now . Now after he flashed the ECM the guy I bought it from said it ran good for about a week then went back to running like I have it now. How do you flash a ECM ? Thanx
May 18, 201114 yr Removing power from it for about 30 minutes will do that. You can also do that by tieing both sets of the test connectors together I believe.
May 19, 201114 yr The pulses from the crank sprocket still need to be checked out. It just occured to me that there has been no mention of checking the ECU codes so far as I know. Has that been done? If not, it needs to be looked at. Edited May 19, 201114 yr by Cougar
May 19, 201114 yr Havent had a chance to test the wires according to Cougars instructions but I did manage to talk with the last mechanic to work on the subaie before it was trailered to me. Here is what he said he did ..... Replaced coil pack Replaced ignitor Replaced ECU tested coil to ignitor wires - ok tested ignitor to ecu wires - ok test fire coil pack - ok test ohms to knock sensor - ok test ohms to new crank sensor - ok test ohms to new cam sensor - ok test run with cam sensor disconnected - no run test run with crank sensor disconnected - no run test run with knock sensor diconnected - no run test run with MAF disconnected - CEL on runs bad Flash ECM - Runs OK now . Now after he flashed the ECM the guy I bought it from said it ran good for about a week then went back to running like I have it now. How do you flash a ECM ? Thanx Basically during an ECU Flash the core programming of the ECU is wiped out completely, then re-loaded with an updated version. The only way to do it is with a Subaru Select Monitor, or some other form of re-programmer such as Cobb. It looks like basically the mechanic swapped everything electrical that might affect spark, except plugs and wires, which you did. So now you can either re-check the wiring, or check the crank and cam sensor pulses, rather than just checking resistance of the sensors. This is sounding like a dirty/corroded wire harness connector issue. Or something metallic/magnetic stuck to the cam or crank sprockets or sensors and throwing off the signals.
May 19, 201114 yr I remember a case someone had some time back and it turned out the plugs for the cam and crank sensors were reversed. I don't remember the symtoms of trouble they had.
May 19, 201114 yr If there is a possibility that the sensor connections got reversed somehow I suggest you swap them and see if that helps.
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