This subject has been cover on the board for many years now.

 

It's typical symptom of after-martket axles especially in the MY95 I had. I had to keep the front windows up a little in the rubber at the top of the door sill to keep them from ratling loudly at idle in gear.

 

I'd be inclined to have the idle RPMs verified. A low idle of 400 rpm would exasterbate the vibration problem, and a higher idle may help but not cure it.

 

A tired or lazy coolant temp sensor caused my 95 to have a varing idle that started too high cold then dropped too low at operating temp. Once I replaced it the idle stayed around 750 rpm after warm up as I recall (since this was about 6 years ago).

Here is a development. When I am at a stop and it starts to vibrate - I think it is that rather than a rough idle - I can make it stop by turning the wheel, usually to the left. If it is not vibrating I can accasionally get it to do it by turning the wheel back and forth.

On a side note, is there a way to get an email notification when someone replys to this thread?

Thought I would give an update as to the resolution with my issue. Finally got the shop to experience the vibration when it became more obvious and they had me leave it there. The mechanic drove it around and was able to feel the vibration. They ended up replaceing the new axle and that solved it. Said that the one the had just replaced was a little shorter.

thanx for the update!

Back Pressure Transducer part # 6 in diagram.

I'd check it anyway. Check the operation of the egr valve itself.

As the tube clogs, flow is reduced and the egr valve doesn't operate like it should.

 

EGR has nothing to do with idle. And if it did, it wouldn't matter I gear or not

 

O.

Thanks for the update, glad to hear it's fixed.

I realize the issue has been resolved but in terms of an idle speed of only 400, look closely at the tachometer. The first mark is actually 500 rpms.