First time my car has bubbled over and the heater is blowing cold.. I wonder if my water pump froze in addition to my head gaskets needing to be replaced...

ok this is what happened now that I'm home..

 

I was driving and I had the A/C on but then I noticed the temp was getting high so I thought oh it's going to drop when I start moving again.. however that was not true.. long story short I had to go pull over.. overflow was full and spilled out a bit.. lower hose was cool and upper was warm..

 

I open the cap (cap was cool) and the system vented pressure spilling out more coolant. I did not crack the cap the whole way since it was spilling fluid out so I drove it out to a main lot to get it off the small side street and sat for about 30 min. I check under the hood and now the overflow is pretty much all empty and the radiator is low..

 

I add the overflow to the full line and filled the radiator and i started the car and it was fine the rest of the 10 miles home..

 

I know I have to do the headgaskets sooner or later but I was trying to time it since I will also be doing the timing belt at the same time and I'd hate to have to do one or the other at a later date..

 

is it going to be a pain to get the cams off to do the seals with air tools?

The cold heatr would indicate low coolant. This is the point you add some before she loses enough to overheat.

 

I have driven on bad head gasket with bubbles(ea82) and would run the heat, and when the heat got cool, add coolant, as this would happen before the car overheated. I would run with the cap vebted to prevent the bubbles from over pressurizing znd creating an air pocket.

 

You could get by with the liquid glass block sealer to stop the bubbles. Do this and at least replace the water pump.

 

Bet on doing head gaskets and save up for the parts. But the block seal may just get you by for a good while

The cold heatr would indicate low coolant. This is the point you add some before she loses enough to overheat.

 

I have driven on bad head gasket with bubbles(ea82) and would run the heat, and when the heat got cool, add coolant, as this would happen before the car overheated. I would run with the cap vebted to prevent the bubbles from over pressurizing znd creating an air pocket.

 

You could get by with the liquid glass block sealer to stop the bubbles. Do this and at least replace the water pump.

 

Bet on doing head gaskets and save up for the parts. But the block seal may just get you by for a good while

 

 

I was never too keen on those sealant stuff I want to do it right I mean I just did a 1300 mile trip last week and it never overheated so I know I'm working against time but it's not crazy yet..

 

I wonder about how much do the gaskets go for at the dealer anyways? $60?

 

hmm seems like the list price is $42.95 each

Edited May 26, 201114 yr by 1-3-2-4

To do a head gasket properly, you're looking at probably $200. Between the head gaskets, four cam seals, crank seal, valve cover gaskets, grommets. While you have the engine out it would be dumb not to replace the separator plate, should probably reseal the oil pump at the very least.

Then just other dumb expenses like hose clamps, coolant, oil, random fasteners, etc.

 

And that doesn't even include timing belt stuff.

The separator plate has been in my utility closet for almost a year since I was going to do that for my 95 Legacy but that's not needed..

 

the cost is not the issue it's just a hassle I have to go buy an engine lift and stand finding time to get this all done since all my weekends are always tied up photographing weddings or pc repair.. I for sure want to get it done before my vacation in July.

 

The 97 used plastic for the rear plate.. but mine is leaking so I already know what to expect.. I might do the oil pan to due to rust.. still up in the air.

 

I might as well take the oil pump of as well to check the screws.

What's an engine lift??

 

 

 

 

You don't need a stand, just set the engine in an old tire and do one side at a time.

Optimal? maybe not, get the job done without special stuff? INDEED!!!

Im doing it out in my driveway so I cant do that rigging

I made a tripod thing of sorts out of some old 4x4s to pull an engine in my friend's driveway once.

Do the head gasket job with the engine in the car, it is an option. I was able to purchase everything I needed to do the job on my car for $250 and that included all the timing belt parts, seals, intake, exhaust, valve cover gaskets, hoses, clamps and everything. I have a hoist, so I did pull the motor and completely degreased it as well, but I know Miles just did a HG job with the engine in.

In the car is very difficult on a DOHC.

I made a tripod thing of sorts out of some old 4x4s to pull an engine in my friend's driveway once.

 

 

I was thinking about that but I'm not good with wood working..

 

Looks like (a member here?) did that set up here.. I found one night when searching..

 

http://home.comcast.net/~skipnospam/Head_gasket_replacement.html

In the car is very difficult on a DOHC.

Yeah I'm not going to bother.. I still gotta do the transmission and I want to do my motor mounts so I might as well pull it.. I'm not sure how long the head bolts are but I can't see them coming out because of how the DOHC sits in the car.