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Yea, I've run into reman axles for older cars being piles of junk. I put a reman on my Mercedes and it lasted a couple weeks, another one lasted about as long. It's a really annoying process to change them, too, a solid hour. Finally I found a good original axle, rebooted it, and it's been fine for 3 years.

You're right!! Good catch, I'm super dyslexic and apparently got that backwards.

If it's clicking slightly you could try swapping sides. Axles obviously wear more going forward than backward, so changing what side they're on lets the axle wear in the "reverse" direction. I've done this in the past on cars that have unobtanium axles with good results. I haven't seen an answer as to the best method, you have two options. Which one you chose depends on how badly things are rusted in your car. Remove the cotter pin and the 36mm axle nut. Remove the washer that looks flat. It really isn't, make sure to put it back on the same way it came off (convex side toward the hub). Remove the conical washer with the slit. Remove the axle roll pin on the inside. Since the parking brake is on the front wheels I usually set the parking brake to hold the rotor/hub in place while the axle is out. You may have to unbolt the hub from the rotor to get the new axle in, but at least the rotor will stay locked in place by the parking brake. Now comes the point where you have to make a decision. you can either remove the balljoint pinch bolt and drop the balljoint out of the knuckle. That will allow the knuckle to swing outward and let the axle come off the transmission splines. If your balljoint is firmly rusted in place and you don't feel like fighting that fight, you can remove the swaybar endlink and the inner control arm bolt. Turn the steering wheel all the way to that side and the whole assembly should swing out far enough to remove the axle off the transmission. You might have to also unbolt the radius rod from the control arm, but shouldn't have to. Do not hit the axle with a steel hammer to remove it from the knuckle!!!! You will mushroom the end and the nut won't go back on until you file it out. If you must hammer the axle out of the knuckle use either a brass hammer or a brass drift. When re-installing the axle, put anti-seize on the splines so the next time you have to take it apart it comes apart. Then make sure the shaft where the conical washer seats is perfectly clean. Make sure the taper in the hub where the conical washer seats is perfectly clean. And I mean SPOTLESS. Devoid of oil, grease or dirt. This is a mechanical shaft lock, if it's not clean you'll ruin your hub. Just a note on the inner roll pin, the axle only goes on the transmission one way. If you have it 180 degrees out the pin won't quite go in, don't force it, just spin the axle 180 degrees. If your roll pin toll doesn't go through the hole, the roll pin won't.

The 2nd gen legacys seem to be about 2 gallons left when the light comes on. I never had the low fuel light come on in my 89GL, I'm guessing it was broken like most other things on the car...

2nd gen legacys have a low fuel level light, and no they do not light up when the key is on and the engine is off. The low fuel light isn't computer controlled, it's just an idiot light with a sensor in the tank. Since the condition of low fuel isn't met when the key is on and the engine is off, the light doesn't illuminate. On all the 2nd gen legacys I've owned (five?), the fuel needle goes well below the empty line before you have to worry, your mileage literally may vary.

Yea, this. Subaru engines are really wide compared to most other engines, even the v6 that could be optioned in those cars. The v6 isn't wide down low like a subaru engine is. There are other engines that are efficient, you may look at honda engines from the 90's, they're extremely easy to tune on the stock obd1 ECUs and will actually fit in the car.

Why are you putting a subaru transmission in a 300z? just buy a transmission that's already RWD... The issue that always comes up with subaru RWD conversions is the transmissions (autos or manuals) aren't designed to transfer all their power out the back all the time, especially the autos. Those are primarily FWD only transferring power back when it's needed, they tend not to do well.

Oh getting it out of the bushing isn't a big deal, worst case you just replace the bushing. The hard part is removing it from the knuckle since a long section is exposed and rusts up. I've literally had them so rusty you couldn't tell the difference between the bolt and the knuckle. The position that picture shows is 99% done. When they won't come out of the knuckle you have to needle scale them as clean as possible, then heat stuff red hot with a torch and assault it with a BFH, being careful not to bend the now superheated knuckle.

Yea... Especially to avoid fines, then it's fraud and theft, along with being a felony.

How far did you go over mileage, and what's the over mileage penalty? If you're not that far over mileage and don't wanna keep the car, just pay it. Leasing another car generally won't expunge fines from car condition (mileage, damage, etc.) You may be able to negotiate... Good luck, though. I've had a lot of friends go through the wringer on leased cars, leasing agencies are usually pretty ruthless on over mileage and under condition. How far over you went is the important thing, though. If you went so far over you owe them thousands of dollars, buying it is probably your best choice.

Check all the electrical connectors you had to unplug. The big ones going to the engine can take more force to seat than you expect, one may be loose causing intermittent issues.

Just unlock the door with the key. Surely Subaru didn't get rid of the keyhole...

It is possible to have a leak in the middle of the radiator core that evaporates before it drops. More likely to happen where the plastic end tanks are crimped onto the core. You'd smell coolant, though. As texan said, not likely you have an internally leaking headgasket with no other symptoms. However, it's pretty easy to tell if you're burning coolant. Pull your spark plugs out and look at them, coolant steam cleans the plugs so if one is significantly cleaner than the others, that cylinder may be burning coolant.

Unlike an incandescent bulb, the polarity of LEDs matters. If it doesn't work one way, flip it around 180 degrees and install it the other way. The hood release is right around where you left shin is when you're sitting in the car.

My experience with winterforce tires is that they wear kinda fast, I'd be really surprised if you had a broken cord or something, though. I had a set on my lifted GL and beat the absolute piss out of the thing offroad and never broke one. I don't know what car you have, but you may want to have the alignment checked. If you have a 3rd gen legacy, make sure the rear doesn't have excessive negative camber from worn lateral link bushings, that will cause excessive tire wear.

The front and center differentials are part of the transmission, they are all lubricated with the same oil. Besides the engine, transmission, and rear differential, there isn't anything else you need to lubricate or change the oil on.

The water line is close to the ABS computer, that may or may not have gotten wet. It's under the passenger foot well A pillar trim near the water line. I agree the ECU is probably completely shot. No need to pull the starter to test it, pull the spade connector off the starter and jump 12v to it. That'll activate the starter solenoid and crank the engine over. Make sure the battery isn't dead, obviously. Pull the ECU and disconnect it, spray a liberal application of electronics cleaner in the plug to start washing the water out of it so it doesn't corrode (worse). I'd pull out all the interior that got wet, seats, carpet, pillar trim, etc. The pillar trim has sound deadening behind it, same goes for the door cards. If you don't pull these things out and clean under them, you'll always have a smell. Once it's out, you can probably save it. Rent a pressure washer that can run soap and pressure washer the spoob out of everything, let it dry off and you should be fine. Oh, you'll also want to replace your front speakers, they're made out of paper and totally ruined, good excuse for an upgrade! You can definitely save this, it'll just take some time. I've sunk cars further than that in mud puddles being an idiot and they were fine after some drying out.

They're cheap no-name tires, your mileage may (literally) vary. I haven't had good luck with offbrand tires. They're made in Thailand, though, so they're probably better than the offbrand Chinese tires.

So you sparked a random pet peeve of mine... MercedesDieselGuy on youtube doesn't always do things correctly. I was looking for an easy way out of repairing something on my old Mercedes and he had a solution that was outright dangerous and would cause eventual damage to the engine. Just a warning about him...

Oh in Maine we just call it the BAB -- BigArseBolt

Doing a front or rear? I've always wanted to try one of those, post pics and a trip report!

NTN is a fine brand of bearing, you're best off getting them from a reputable supplier. It's a bit more expensive, but you do the job properly and you're good for another 100k+ miles. I've bought bearings off ebay before because I got sucked into the too-good-to-be-true price... which is too good to be true. Chinese bearing manufactures can go and put whatever they want on bearings and other parts and sell them at crazy low prices. You get what you pay for...

I assumed it was automatic, my bad. However, it does not need to see a cranking signal, and I have two reasons. First, with a manual you can roll start the car and pop it in gear, which I have done many times. In this case, the ECU doesn't see a cranking signal because you're doing it with the clutch. Starts and runs just fine. Second, I had an automatic subaru and the inhibitor switch on the transmission failed and it refused to start since it wasn't detecting the car was in neutral. For about a week while waiting for parts I connected a wire to the starter solenoid and ran it into the car, to start I'd turn the key on and stick the wire into the cigarette lighter plug to crank the starter. Since I had the spade connector unplugged, there was no "start signal", but the car started just fine. In the case of the automatic, it threw an NSS code and disabled cruise control. I've had manuals from 96-99 and the auto was a 98. So no, 2nd gens don't need a "cranking signal" to the ECU.

First disconnect the battery cable, very important. Then remove the two cables from the starter, the big high current cable and the spade connector. I think the big cable is held on with a 10mm or 12mm nut. The bottom starter nut has a 17mm head and is a slight pain to get at from the top. You can use a long socket extension and swing the socket wrench between the starter and the firewall, it's a bit easier to get it from below. The top starter bolt has a 14mm head and is pretty easy to remove. After everything is disconnected, the starter comes out the top. You have to play Tetris a bit to get it past other hoses and whatnot, but it's not a big deal. Important: The starter grounds through the top bolt, you'll notice the ground wire is bolted in there. It's extremely important to clean the mating surface between the starter and the transmission, and the surface between the ground lug and the starter. If you don't do that, it probalby won't work due to corrosion.

You already have a used starter... Why go from where you are to where you are minus money and time. Just take yours apart, replace the contacts and clean/grease the moving parts. You'll be way ahead of the game.