rainman19154 Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 (edited) This is a first effort for me but so far so good. There's so much info on the job, I feel like I've been led by the hand, bolt by bolt. I've cleaned the gasket surface where the water pump meets the block, and installed two of the four new idlers. I am pretty much ready to move forward with reassembly. One remark: in the notes I've read no one mentioned EAT4 cooling lines when pulling the radiator. They weren't a huge obstacle but just another awkward step. A 1/4" drive 6 mm socket with long extentions took care of the clamps. The hoses looks like I should buy a couple feet of new hose and replace them. Questions: I have read the crank gear marks are vague- uh yeah! There's a smudge of paint but I can't discern a fine machine mark within that smudge. The cam gears have the paint daub but there's a fine machined mark within each one. Not so on the crank. Any hints? And looking at a pic online, there is a nub on the engine block area right above the crank gear; I am not seeing that. Gonna go "study" it s'more. And finally- I found torque specs for the idlers and tensioner bolts, but what's the torque for the six water pump bolts? I did take a few pics but there's plenty of such all ready on other threads here. And the unexpected.... I have been having random periods of overheating and coolant loss. I was doing a water pump swap, throwing in a new belt and thermostat since I was in there. As I was removing the radiator, I found the upper hose connecting neck has snapped off inside the hose. I never saw any steam but as hot and humid as it is here in Philly, I'm not surprised. That broken neck would certainly account for some coolant loss. I've called one parts store and the radiator is $125. Not awful... I'd go to a U Pull It yard but I'm working so much I really don't have time. As it is this job is gonna get spread out over evenings and maybe into next weekend. I'm hoping this overhaul of the cooling system takes care of my troubles. Otherwise I'm afraid I've a rare 2.2L HG failure. Edited July 17, 2011 by rainman19154 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 EAT4 cooling lines The hoses looks like I should buy a couple feet of new hose and replace them. the last time i replaced them i used 18 inches and it did both hoses. i think i used 8 inches for each. i attached one end of the new hose on the rad and then lined it up with the metal ATF line from the trans and marked it. then i cut it . i then did the same on the other hose. Questions: I have read the crank gear marks are vague- the timing mark on the crank sprocket is located on one of the ''TABS'' on the rear edge of the sprocket. it is a straight hash mark. disregard any paint marks. on the cam sprockets, you are looking for ''hash'' marks on the front edge of the pulley. again, disregard any paint marks. http://lovehorsepower.com/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=48:1995-subaru-legacy-outback-timing-belt-and-water-pump-replacement&catid=10:subaru-legacy&Itemid=64 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainman19154 Posted July 18, 2011 Author Share Posted July 18, 2011 yeah i've been referancing the same article, mostly because the pics are exceptionally clear and the text is step by step explicit. I do see how their small red arrow indicates the tab behind the crank gear. I had missed that. I will check that out. I looked at my gear again and it does look like there is punch mark on a tooth. I will ignore that for now. My cam gears are pretty much just like the photos and there are fine line machined marks within the color spots. I'm pretty confidant about how they're set. Another annoyance is the gasket on the three piece timing cover. The covers have been off before. and not only is the gasket missing sections and is pretty well distorted but several of the small bolts that were holding the cover on are lacking the shouldered area that most of them have. I don't think the bolts are a huge issue but I'm thinking about seeking a fresh gasket set for that cover. I'm shut down for now... working ten hour days, it may be next Sunday before I get backl to this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 the timing cover gasket is readily available but i don't bother replacing them. i just put the covers back in place and if the bolts are missing i use zip ties. no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainman19154 Posted July 18, 2011 Author Share Posted July 18, 2011 ok thanks for that tip.... what about those water pump bolts. any torque spec for them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainman19154 Posted July 18, 2011 Author Share Posted July 18, 2011 Tightening torque: N⋅m (kg-m, ft-lb) T1: First 10+4−0 (1.0+0.4−0 , 7.2+2.9−0 ) Second 10+4−0 (1.0+0.4−0 , 7.2+2.9−0 ) T2: 6.4±0.5 (0.65±0.05, 4.7±0.4) I found those torque specs. 7 ft lbs?! I might have to go buy a 3/8" drive torque wrench. I don't think my 1/2" goes that low. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainman19154 Posted July 24, 2011 Author Share Posted July 24, 2011 Thanks for the recent advice and for the general resource USMB provides. The total job was 6-8 hours over two weekends but it went smoothly enough. Finagling that timing belt into place with everything lined up was more of a puzzle than I anticipated; for whatever reason, I thought there would be more slack when installing the last idler. Alls well that ends well. I now have a new radiator, t.stat and water pump. I've put nine miles on it and so far, all is well. If the coolant loss and overheating returns, I have serious trouble... HG. The timing belt was incidental to the issues at hand but it's a challenge I wanted to take on. Of course, it needed to be done at some point anyway. My observations: The trick of using the starter to break loose the crank bolt is sweet. Just a click is all it took and with no adverse affects. Pulling the radiator is really no big deal but I had looked past the obvious point of the car having an automatic tranny and was surprised by the cooler lines hanging me up. On reassembly, I did replace the factory clamps on those hoses. The originals were too small to deal with. I also didn't think about the automatic when I test fired the engine after the timing belt was set. I only lost a quart or so of ATF but I made a good mess around the front end of the car. (insert mallet-to-head icon here) After much application of absorbent, aerosol parts cleaner and rags I was able to begin putting the rest of it all back together. The timing belt install had it's frustrating moments but I am sure it won't be nearly the struggle next time. There was one suggestion to install the lower smooth idler as the last one once the belt is set... I did not do it that way but it might be easier. It's a bit of a 'cram getting that lower geared idler set next to the water pump. Another incidental item; I'd replaced my A.C. belt last year and I recalled it was pretty much to the max extension on the adjuster when I put it on. This summer its been squealing frequently and I knew I couldn't tighten it more. At Autozone I learned it was the belt listed for my car but the clerk did find one that was just a bit shorter. That belt went on good and tight, with still nearly an inch left on the adjuster. I've had this happen with other belts on other cars... most often an alternator belt when a replacement unit has a differant sized pulley. Anyway, tally up another successful t.belt, done with major thanks to USMB for info and inspiration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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