rainman19154

I agree about the older 'Cruisers being hard to come by in the NE. I've watched around the Philly region and they just don't show up. I have seen only one in traffic -that was months ago, and they don't show up for sale at all.

Thanks for the recent advice and for the general resource USMB provides. The total job was 6-8 hours over two weekends but it went smoothly enough. Finagling that timing belt into place with everything lined up was more of a puzzle than I anticipated; for whatever reason, I thought there would be more slack when installing the last idler. Alls well that ends well. I now have a new radiator, t.stat and water pump. I've put nine miles on it and so far, all is well. If the coolant loss and overheating returns, I have serious trouble... HG. The timing belt was incidental to the issues at hand but it's a challenge I wanted to take on. Of course, it needed to be done at some point anyway. My observations: The trick of using the starter to break loose the crank bolt is sweet. Just a click is all it took and with no adverse affects. Pulling the radiator is really no big deal but I had looked past the obvious point of the car having an automatic tranny and was surprised by the cooler lines hanging me up. On reassembly, I did replace the factory clamps on those hoses. The originals were too small to deal with. I also didn't think about the automatic when I test fired the engine after the timing belt was set. I only lost a quart or so of ATF but I made a good mess around the front end of the car. (insert mallet-to-head icon here) After much application of absorbent, aerosol parts cleaner and rags I was able to begin putting the rest of it all back together. The timing belt install had it's frustrating moments but I am sure it won't be nearly the struggle next time. There was one suggestion to install the lower smooth idler as the last one once the belt is set... I did not do it that way but it might be easier. It's a bit of a 'cram getting that lower geared idler set next to the water pump. Another incidental item; I'd replaced my A.C. belt last year and I recalled it was pretty much to the max extension on the adjuster when I put it on. This summer its been squealing frequently and I knew I couldn't tighten it more. At Autozone I learned it was the belt listed for my car but the clerk did find one that was just a bit shorter. That belt went on good and tight, with still nearly an inch left on the adjuster. I've had this happen with other belts on other cars... most often an alternator belt when a replacement unit has a differant sized pulley. Anyway, tally up another successful t.belt, done with major thanks to USMB for info and inspiration.

Tightening torque: N⋅m (kg-m, ft-lb) T1: First 10+4−0 (1.0+0.4−0 , 7.2+2.9−0 ) Second 10+4−0 (1.0+0.4−0 , 7.2+2.9−0 ) T2: 6.4±0.5 (0.65±0.05, 4.7±0.4) I found those torque specs. 7 ft lbs?! I might have to go buy a 3/8" drive torque wrench. I don't think my 1/2" goes that low.

ok thanks for that tip.... what about those water pump bolts. any torque spec for them?

yeah i've been referancing the same article, mostly because the pics are exceptionally clear and the text is step by step explicit. I do see how their small red arrow indicates the tab behind the crank gear. I had missed that. I will check that out. I looked at my gear again and it does look like there is punch mark on a tooth. I will ignore that for now. My cam gears are pretty much just like the photos and there are fine line machined marks within the color spots. I'm pretty confidant about how they're set. Another annoyance is the gasket on the three piece timing cover. The covers have been off before. and not only is the gasket missing sections and is pretty well distorted but several of the small bolts that were holding the cover on are lacking the shouldered area that most of them have. I don't think the bolts are a huge issue but I'm thinking about seeking a fresh gasket set for that cover. I'm shut down for now... working ten hour days, it may be next Sunday before I get backl to this.

This is a first effort for me but so far so good. There's so much info on the job, I feel like I've been led by the hand, bolt by bolt. I've cleaned the gasket surface where the water pump meets the block, and installed two of the four new idlers. I am pretty much ready to move forward with reassembly. One remark: in the notes I've read no one mentioned EAT4 cooling lines when pulling the radiator. They weren't a huge obstacle but just another awkward step. A 1/4" drive 6 mm socket with long extentions took care of the clamps. The hoses looks like I should buy a couple feet of new hose and replace them. Questions: I have read the crank gear marks are vague- uh yeah! There's a smudge of paint but I can't discern a fine machine mark within that smudge. The cam gears have the paint daub but there's a fine machined mark within each one. Not so on the crank. Any hints? And looking at a pic online, there is a nub on the engine block area right above the crank gear; I am not seeing that. Gonna go "study" it s'more. And finally- I found torque specs for the idlers and tensioner bolts, but what's the torque for the six water pump bolts? I did take a few pics but there's plenty of such all ready on other threads here. And the unexpected.... I have been having random periods of overheating and coolant loss. I was doing a water pump swap, throwing in a new belt and thermostat since I was in there. As I was removing the radiator, I found the upper hose connecting neck has snapped off inside the hose. I never saw any steam but as hot and humid as it is here in Philly, I'm not surprised. That broken neck would certainly account for some coolant loss. I've called one parts store and the radiator is $125. Not awful... I'd go to a U Pull It yard but I'm working so much I really don't have time. As it is this job is gonna get spread out over evenings and maybe into next weekend. I'm hoping this overhaul of the cooling system takes care of my troubles. Otherwise I'm afraid I've a rare 2.2L HG failure.

http://lovehorsepower.com/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=43:valve-lash-adjuster-replacement&catid=10:subaru-legacy&Itemid=59 Following a link posted on another thread, I found this article (among others) and it addresses something I've read about here on USMB; Pulling the rocker arms and servicing the hydraulic adjusters. My '95 has at least one ticking lifter and I'd be very happy to quiet it all down. So many here have said to just flush the flat lifters rather than replace them. Why go to all the trouble of removing them but then not replacing a wear n tear part? And at the end of the article I linked to, the author referances cleaning oil passages - His pics were informative. I had no idea the oil passages I'd be looking for were so small! With the rocker arm assembly out, exactly which passages should I be looking for? Will it be just the openings on the surface of the rocker arms? And are they expected to be only clogged at the surface and easily cleared? Or are there passages which require Roto Rooter equipment to properly get flowing like new?

Yeah, I remember going to town on the paneling in my buddies basement, as well as the smooth drywall ceiling. Some poorly executed mix of Peter Max and Marvel Comics, all done with the black light paint that was so popular in the Seventies. Throw in some bong hits and Black Sabbath's Paranoid on an 8 track player and suddenly all that "art" seemed profound.

That' s some nice work area you have there! You get to use that garage to work on your Sub? No wonder it is such a pimp ride.

Success is good medicine: 'Cures depression real well! Gratz on tracking that down.

yeah you're right. Assuming you've got the timing right ... compression, fuel and spark are the keys... Plug wires are seated well and nothing loose in the electrical at the coil? Have you checked for spark? Pull the supply line to the fuel filter and put it into a handy (beverage) container, then try to start it. This will let you see if your getting any fuel delivery to the filter. That supply line is just held on with a normal hose clamp- it's a very quick n ez way to see if you're at least fuel from the tank.

did you bleed off fuel pressure before starting the disassembly? How did you do that? Unplug fuel pump? Did it get plugged back in well enough? Pull the fuse? I;m just spitballing, trying to jog your thoughts. Good luck and let us know.

I did look at the pics... a bit OMG!! to the gutted interior.... and a ROFLMAO at that purple they sprayed on the block. hahahahaha Good luck... keep us posted. I'm subscribing to this thread!

+1 /wave from NE Philly

good job!

Welcome to the forums. These guys are a priceless wealth of Subeeism. Post pics as you work on your GL-10- we'll all be cheering you on.

U bought the car second hand? Are u certain there is a working bulb in the CEL socket? When u first turn the key ON before starting, does your CEL light up with the other dash lights? You should see it lit with the key ON but the engine not started. It should go off after the engine starts. If you don't see one before cranking it over, the bulb is bad or has been removed. Removing the bulb is a ploy used to hide problems with used cars. "No CEL. Hmmm that means no problems."

Yeah I use a sawzall at work. I know they have their difficulties n quirks. I was thinking about clamping the bolt with a pair of vise grips... take some of the wiggle and vibration out that can stymie a good cut. I hadn't thought of the bolt actually spinning but I can picture it. Vise grips could fix that issue, too. Actually I do have a large set of bolt cutters but I know clearance can be a problem underneath the rig.

That write up is a MONSTER! Thanks for all that detail. I appreciate it. I have not tackled this yet, being leary of rust damage and not being able to get it back together in at least as good a state as it currently is. I have gathered some parts... including a gasket from Advanced I'm not sure is right. It's offered as the donut gasket at the back end of the Cat but while it has thickness overall, it's conical (flat on one side, tapered to fit a flange) on the other side. I was expecting a donut with substance on both sides. I anticipate a struggle with the existing hardware. I have a sawzall and bolt cutters, besides a good collection of vise grips and 6 point sockets. Having read your gathered remarks, I may opt for a cheap angle grinder from Harbor Freight... that's a tool that's worth having long term anyway. This could be a good excuse to grab one. I appreciate the response here... it's certainly worth waiting for. I'll post followups as this saga proceeds.

Your remark about it catching on the weld- that is pretty much how I pictured it going. Hopefully there is enough of the flanged end for the split flange to catch on. I will keep in mind the option of using two sizes as a pair. It's more likely to be irregular and "whatever it takes" will have to be the philosophy for tackling it. I WILL pickup some 1/4" stainless bolts. Did you double nut to lock it, or did u use a jam nut?

Great info... I have another thread on this topic and I'm chasing clues to deal wth the problem. Your description with the sleeves completes the advice I've read elsewhere for dealing with this. Do the cats and exhaust system need to come off the car or can a competent welder do it with the car on a lift but everything still in place?

what a story... am glad you worked it out and a good inspiration for all us amateurs to stick with projects that give us a fight.

OB struts and OB front seats. 2" body lift and what feels like a 2" driver lift. However, while that new driver's seat is sweet, the passenger's side is vanilla, w/o the extra adjustments. WTB driver's seat from RH drive Outback.

Great threads, especially the first one. They do answer the second part of my question. THX

The thread recently closed- re: The Guide... is this about adapting an EA D/R to an EJ chassis? Dodging flames, I read enough of the thread to sort out that they did ''split the atom'' and reconstruct what another engineer had assembled previously. But what I don't know is what chassis is this transmission for? Just as a lark, I surfed Australian sites for info on a Liberty D/R... a Reman 5 speed unit is ~$2000 Australian. And of course that is before shipping costs. I found salvage outlets that probably could offer one but whether I could get anything shipped is again an issue. If what I found is correct, the low range on the Liberty is 1.2:1... has anyone down yonder regeared one to a lower range? This is academic for now but I'd like to know whats what. Thanks for whatever response.