rainman19154

- - -on the rear strut, did you use the Fastcam on the top or the bottom? I want everything in place when I take it in for the four wheel alignment. Thx for all the feedback. I will post results once I've torn into this. I ordered up four of the Fastcam bolts. It was an interesting search. Tire Rack wanted $20 each, plus a high shipping charge. Summit Racing had them in pairs for $24 and fairly cheap shipping. Summit ftw... and they accept Paypal; another plus. And fwiw, they do match them to make and model. 14 mm is what they listed for the Lego... the same as someone else mentioned here at USMB.

I be interested in seeing those pics. My 95 is probably a candidate for that repair.

I know I have a 4.11 but I didn't know the OB was different. I will definitely keep that in mind down the road. Having said that, I am not planning on upping to a larger tire. Certainly not anytime soon. The 2" body lift will be a start. If this project progresses, I may well return to the topic of tires/wheels, but I have lots to deal with before I get to that point. I know my Lego is a rust monster, so those 19 mm bolts (socket size) on the struts are gonna be a good time. The fronts were especially tough on the donor car and it didn't show the rust mine has. I went to Harbor Freight to look at their 3/4" drive sets, but they're 12 pt. doh! A better brand with 6 pt sockets is over $200 for a set. Guess I'll have to find a tool store and just buy one socket... I have a basic T handle from back in the days of doing front axles on my old 2nd Gen wagons.

great. thx for the feedback http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/20363AC211/ Reading the link above, the struts for the OB are good from 95 to mid 98... I'll have to check the vin on the donor car - it was marked as a 98. I took a pic of the vin with my cell; if it too crappy, I can get back to jy and get it for sure. I won't be doing this before tomorrw, and then it'll just be the rears as a first goal. Once I get those in place, the fronts will be a second phase. I'll prolly checkout tie rod ends and ball joints while I'm there. edit: my pic was shaky but I was able to discern the model year and it was a '98 MY. gtg!

My pic -a -part yard is shy on Outbacks. I had to settle on struts off a 98 model. I've searched and read but haven't found a definitive answer: Will these 98 OB struts bolt right into my 95 Lego? Some hammering and hole drilling required? Am I going to need to return for other suspension peices to make these work right? -I've perused so many threads I don't recall the detail but some swaps get into altered geometry and sway bars or trailing links have to swap also? I know about the required alignment, and will watch out for the camber? bolts on the fronts. And I had not seen this before but I just read a mention that there are lift blocks on the Outback? It would be another project but these sound they're offer a little more lift to the body? Thx for any help. PS -will the 98 OB front bumper with the BIG fog lights fit my 95 Lego?

yeah! good luck and keep us posted!! What a package

11K?! what a find, indeed. Throw up a full body shot.

Welcome to the board! My experience with engine swaps is limited but the Subaru swap I did was on a car about the same vintage you're dealing with. I did it in eight hours, working solo. Very do.able. As for the upgrade, that complicates it all. Going to fuel injection, the electrical is going to be as big a project as the mechanical.

??? gtfo! that last post reads like Philly.

It's been an interesting summer... Had an electrical failure; replaced starter and then ignition switch, then the battery. I was going it with a shotgun mentality but with 200k, I figured anything I replace is gonna be an upgrade. Then in the heat of July developed a fuel delivery problem. A jy fuel pump unit complete ($5!!! ) fixed it right up. In early August the alternator died but that story was more about the $160 cost than the 20 minutes it took to swap it out.

that's been my experience over the years. Haynes > Chilton

greetings to our new friend 'down under'.... as you can tell, we likes photos.. alot! We're very vizual heer.

My 95 Lego gets 20 ish around town, high density stop n go. I recently scored in at 24 mpg for a 400 mile road trip, 70 mph and ac most of the way.

On the Legacy with four wheel discs, the rear rotors include a drum in the casting. The drums are only for the parking/emergency brakes. THERE IS NO AUTO ADJUSTING MECHANISM. Cars with drum brakes have an adjuster that will tighten the setting as you apply the brakes in reverse. These parking brakes on the Legacys do not have the auto adjuster. You must do it manually through the backing plate.

Huh, and he had a real "positive" attitude. :-\ /shrug Can't please everyone.

The Torque Bind problem is very common. I'm sure most of us reading this thread were sure it's where you'd end up. Do the drain and fill a few times. It's cheap, and probably overdue for the transmission anyway. On my 95 (not terribly differant from your model) I get just about a gallon when I pull the plug and drain the tranny. I then put in a fresh gallon jug of ATF and call it good. Doing three or four drain-and-fill cycles over a couple days pretty much fixed the torgue bind on my Legacy. I do sometimesl feel stiffness when taking tight corners but compared to what I did have it's nonexistent. I bought my car has over 200k and had to deal with the Torque Bind right off the bat. Now that I know about this issue, I do a one gallon swap of the transmission fluid each time I do the engine oil. Search "Torque Bind" on this forum and you'll read where a good number of us have had success with getting fresh fluid circulated throughout the system and apparently cleaning up some internal workings. As for the actual mechanical repair, it does seem to be pretty straightforward if you need to go that way.

A late followup. It's been nearly a month since I dropped in that JY Fuel Pump assembly and I've had no more problem. Thanks for the feedback.

Thx John! I found the location and removal info in the manual but haven't found test data. I'll do the water trick if I get stuck... it'll serve two purposes: 1) Proof of theory and 2) get me home. USMB is the bomb! Thx guys!

Hey.... good to know. Type "fuel pump" into the search, even limit it to the New Gen forum, and there are lots of hits. Hard to read them all... and ECTS problems would be easily overlooked by that kind of search. If I get stung by this again, that will be a good one to check. I'll look in my manual now and see what I can find for testing it.

At no point does it stall in mid trip. I drive somewhere, shut it off, then find it won't restart when I'm ready to leave. While waiting for the tow on Saturday, after two hours it did start and then die after just a few seconds but wouldn't restart. It wasn't until it had completely cooled down the next morning that things seemed back to normal. I'll assess where I am with the jy unit I've installed and take it from there. I don't want to be 'right. I want it fixed... I'll keep ya'll posted.

I'll plead guilty to shooting for the easy fix but again I'll reference the age of the car and the fact the forums here indicate an ongoing failure rate for these pumps. Replacing an engine sensor isn't necessarily tough but isolating it as the problem can be dicey. I'm here to share and learn. If there is something else I should be aware of for a fuel pump not running, I'll heed it. Searching the forums here have indicated the pump is the most common fix but the relay and ecu are also suspect. Some had harness repairs that fixed them up but they indicated burned or loose connections and I've found none of that.

I didn't give vapor lock a serious consideration but I know it's in the discussion with older vehicles. I did loosen the cap but it didn't change anything. I've put in the jy replacement. It does start and run. I'm gonna wait til the heat of the day and let it run a good while then shut it off. After a few minutes sitting in the heat, I'll then see if it restarts. Why blame the "poor little fuel pump"? Because reading here on the forum it pops up often enough to be a suspect. Because replacing the fuel pump is much much easier than replaciing an ecu... not a common problem but it's in the discussion... let's start with the easier stuff. Because the car has over 200K.... any mechanical component is well due for suspicion. Because (as stated earlier) the wiring isn't showing wear, signs of heat at the connectors or any sort of loose fit. Because it's presenting the symptoms under a defined set of circumstances... loose connections or worn contacts would be more erratic in their symptoms. Are the ecu or relay off the hook? No... at this point I've taken a calculated shot at it and 'spun the wheel'. Only time will tell if this simple fix has taken care of the problem.

1995 Legacy AWD wagon, automatic trans First symptom was a morning start up... cranked, started and died. Turned the key and it fired right back up. Two days later, full tank of gas, sitting in 90+ degree weather after driving for 30 minutes... starts and dies, won't restart. I thought vaguely of vapor lock but had no time to dwell on it. I took the other car and went to my appointment. Later that day; still won't start. In the cool of the next morning, it started right up. Drove it casually for the next day or two. Yesterday, drove some in the morning and it was fine. Did a quick errand in the heat of the afternoon (90 degrees plus again) and it won't start when I am ready to head home. Waited over two hours for wrecker. I did disconnect fuel line at filter and determined I'm not getting fuel. Loosened fuel cap, no change --- not vapor lock (though I didn't really think that was the problem). When the wrecker arrives, it does start and run to pull out of parking space but then dies and won't restart. Later at home, starts, runs for a few seconds and dies. This morning, as a test, it starts and seems fine. I've been to a U Pull it and scored a complete "in the tank" assembly for $5. I meant to snag the relay also but was so sun baked from wandering thru two yards, I forgot all about it. Because it's reacting to heat and use, I'm thinking component malfunction. What I can see of the harness and connectors all look good. Nothing burned or loose. I come back here and post whatever results I get. Any remarks are welcome. Thx in advance

'95 Lego AWD wagon, 4 wheel disc I just replaced my Parking Brake shoes and have endeavored to do the star wheel adjustment. ... what a PITA. Very simple in concept but i wasn't able to get an angle on the star wheel because of the ??drag link?? that hangs right in line with the plug. Is a stubby screwdriver adequate for gettng in there for the adjustment? Right now, I've used the adjusting nut at the handle end of the cable and that's gotten the brake working. However, I took up enough slack there that I know I'd be better off using the star wheel. BTW the rotor/drums were new about 3000 miles ago... I didn't know about the parking brake system when buying my parts. When I pulled the rotors off and saw the wornout shoes inside, I just made a mental note to get back later to doing them. I never use the parking brake and the inside of the drums are still virtually new. Now with new shoes, I want it all to be correct. I've worked on the older American cars with drum brakes. There was the adjuster that had to pushed aside while the star wheel was turned but the hole was larger and it was mostly a straight shot through the opening to get the adjuster mechanism. On this Legacy, that suspension peice hanging there makes it really difficult. Does anyone have an insight as to what I'm not doing right? Thx

As it turns out it was the battery. I did replace the starter as I mentioned and the ignition switch as well. I got the same symptons. Battery showing a usefull voltage but as soon as a strong load was applied, all went dark. A jump was ineffective. After 24 hours on the charger, the battery showed initially 14v. Over the next two days, while completely disconnected, the reading deteriorated to 12v. I took it in for testing and it failed. I put a new battery in and the car started right up. That was three days ago and it has continued to be just fine. Years ago, I ran into the same thing. When this battery went south, it became like a huge blackhole, consuming all power but giving none out. Dunno if it was a short between the plates from sediment built up in the bottom of the case, or something else. Anyway... all good now.