the check engine light has been on for a while now, and i would like to know how to read the codes off my cars computer, its a 1990 loyale wagon throttle body injection 5 spd ea82, i have located it under the dash, i have the repair manual so i can figure out what is wrong but i cant make sense on how to read the codes from that light, do you just count how many times it blinks after u put the green plugs together? if you know any help would be appreciated thanks:cool:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918

 

hope this helps...

That helps alot, i have a better understanding of how long the pauses and pulses are for one code put together, or multiple, now just to try to make sense of it when i try it Tomorrow , weel se how it goes.

 

Thank you 92_rugby_subie

SD05

No problem.

 

Im assuming theyd be easy to read, never had to read one on any of my scoobs though *knock on wood*

Yup just count, you can tell the difference between a long and short pause pretty easily. Keep in mind there might be multiple codes, so if it's flashing a "long" code, it's probably multiple codes separated by a pause. You will get it once it starts flashing. Took me literally 2 min to figure out what it all meant once I had the connectors together and the light blinking.

 

Good luck!

That was actually very easy, i got code 34, (EGR solenoid), and code 35 ,(Solenoid purge valve). now to fix them lol thanks for the help guys:banana:

Well, i cant seem to find a solenoid purge control valve, or an EGR solenoid at the part stores, i took them out and cleaned them, and any hoses i could that attached to them, put it back together, and disconnected the negative terminal from the battery for 10 seconds, but the codes are still being put out so im sure they need replacing cause they have leaks or something, anyone know where i can find these parts? thanks.

 

SD05

You need to test their resistance with an ohmmeter. Check with the manual, but it's something like 36 ohms. If they are out of spec they will need replaced.

 

I read on here that they're prone to heat failure. One of mine had 5x the allotted resistance and one so much it wouldn't register. The common fix seems to be fooling the ECU with a properly sized resister, but that is only a band-aid fix.

 

For my own car, I found both solenoids at a pick 'n pull that tested good. However, if these die or I couldn't find any, I was prepared to grab some from another Japanese car and solder on the Subaru electrical connectors.

 

I grabbed a couple extra Subaru connectors, and built a plug 'n play extension harness and moved the solenoids with longer vacuum lines onto the passenger strut tower. There was two threaded holes that the original bolts worked with on my car. I don't know if it was a waste of time or not, but it was fun and looks original.

thanks cmill189 i will definatley look into doing this, first i am going to replace all vacuum lines/hoses leading to the solenoid purge valve and the EGR solenoid to se if that it will be a quick fix, if not i know what to do:banana:

disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds will NOT clear the codes - the computer has a "memory back up" so if disconnecting the battery is the method you are going to use to clear codes, you will need to do it for several hours (overnight) - not seconds....

shove a 33 ohm resitor into the connectors for each. Done.

Thanks everyone, i know exactley what to do now your help is appreciated.:-p

SDO5