Well I've followed a bunch of different threads about this Torque binding problem as I am experiencing it in my 97 outback legacy 4EAT. I've posted in a couple, but no answer so far, so I'm attempting to make my own thread.

 

Here's what I have done so far.

 

Got the code 24 and went ahead and did a duty-c change. The only thing I think could have been done wrong was putting the spring it its correct location as it sprung out when I took the casing off. If anybody thinks that could be an issue let me know. I'm not sure it is in the correct location.

 

The fwd fuse has never done anything. I've done several atf changes.

 

The lastest that I've done is going thru the diagnostice manual for the code 24 as follows it failed 1.4) and 3. It did pass the other ones.

 

1. CHECK HARNESS AND CONNECTORS BETWEEN

TCM AND DUTY SOLENOID C.

1) Turn ignition switch to OFF.

2) Disconnect connectors from TCM and transmission.

3) Measure resistance of harness connector between

TCM and transmission.

Connector & terminal / Specified resistance:

(B52) No. 3 — (B9) No. 11 / 1 Ω, or less

 

4) Measure resistance of harness connector between

TCM and body to make sure that circuit does not short.

Connector & terminal / Specified resistance:

(B52) No. 3 — Body / 1 MΩ, or more

 

2. CHECK DUTY SOLENOID C’s GROUND LINE.

Measure resistance between transmission connector

receptacle and transmission case.

Connector & terminal / Specified resistance:

(T4) No. 4 — Transmission / 1 Ω, or less

 

3. CHECK DUTY SOLENOID C.

Measure resistance between transmission connector

receptacle’s terminals.

Connector & terminal / Specified resistance:

(T4) No. 11 — No. 4 / 9 — 17 Ω

 

I am now at a loss, as I think that there is a short circuit issue and I don't know how to go about fixing it. Let me know what you guys think. I also did just go out and pulled the code again got 24, but what I did notice is that when I restarted the car after pulling the code, the fwd light was one for about 1 sec, but only after pulling the code (this is of course with a fuse in) not sure if this means anything.

Are you stating that the resistance measurment between B52-pin 3 and the chassis, with both ends of the connection disconnected, showed a resistance of less than 1 Megohm? If so, then the wire is making a path to ground somehow and you need to trace the wire and find the problem. When you took the measurement hopefully you didn't touch the meter probe connection with your fingers. If you did then you will need to remeasure the resistance again without touching the connections. Your skin resistance will interfere with the reading when making a high resistance measurement so you need to be isolated from the connection.

 

As for the resistance of the solenoid (step 3), what was the resistance reading you got and what scale did you use on the meter to make the measurement?

So I just went back out and retested with the meter...

 

1.4, the first test I did was .4 ohms. Then since it was darkish i did the other possibility and I got 4.5 mill. Do you know what color wire it is in that b 52 pin 3 would be to make sure that I am testing the correct one. But I'm fairly positive that the one that is showing .4 is the correct one.

 

I redid # 3 as well and got no reading at all. I fairly certain that the first time I got .6 ohms.

 

Question: if it was a short circuit, when my dad and i were working on the problem we followed the wire that we thought was b52 pin 3 and it goes into the transmission, is that correct? That without a connector on the driverside near the top? How would I then find the short? Would I have to take the tranny apart?

 

Thanks in advance

if its the spring im thinkn your talkin about that sits right on the edge of the case then thats the parking pin spring......hope u got it right cuz i didnt even notice that it was dislodged and my tranny ate it up..... not only did i lose park but had to take the pin out til i got a new spring cuz it hit the gears.....BAD sound. then i couldnt shift down to 321 cuz it would get stuck. when you instal the spring make sure its hooked on the parking pin and then sprung counterclockwise onto the little rut in the case. it sits there nicely as you wont see an indent to trace of it supposed to be there. good luck.

 

ps. did you happen to pinch the wires on the duty c when putting the case back together? they do get in the way if not tucked into that little crevice they fit in so nicely.

I'm fairly certain that I didn't pinch the wires, but if I cannot get other options I may end up opening the whole thing up again...

 

After I wrote the first post I did see a pic of a the spring in it's correct location, and I 99.5% sure it's in the right spot as well...

ive also read about the tcu being the problem in certain cases.......not 100% sure on this one but ive read of a couple people replacing them and the problem going away....even after replacing the duty c and checking wiring to find no faults....

Just in case somebody reads this at some point and has my issues.....

 

 

It was a crimped wire for the selenoid when i tightened the bell housing (that's after trying really hard to)

 

I have since fixed the problem and everything is working normal.