travis1990 Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 So, I've recently acquired a 1995 Impreza Outback EJ18. I'll spare you guys the complex background story. Basically we got the car with the title but no key. So we took the lock cylinder out and have been starting it with a screw driver. Are the lock cylinders different between the 1.8,2.0, and 2.2 (probably not but, just to make sure.) How much would it cost to make a key for the doors if i don't have a key to make a copy from? Now for the interesting part. When we got the car it would start and run for 3-4 seconds then shut off. The previous owners had replaced just about all of the sensors under the hood to solve the problem. We tried taking the ignitor off another car and it fired up and stayed running. We put the old one back on it and it stayed running then too:confused: In fact I drove it back to my house(a 2 hour drive) no problems. What would cause that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 As long as you have the title you should be able to get the keys made from the VIN number. I was told it was around $11 to get one made. Your second question is hard to answer. If the problem got fixed by unplugging a module and plugging it another one, it sounds like the connector pins may have been corroded. Gurus? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 What he said. A loose plug, poor connection, anything like that could cause an intermittent running issue. 95 IIRC the Impreza was still OBD1 which means you can pull any codes that may be stored without a scanner. You plug in two wires under the dash (I don't recall if its the green connectors or black) and count the flashes of the check engine light. There are some How-To's about it around here somewhere. Search the site for "OBD1 Codes" or something like that and you should find it. The key is simple. Take the cylinder to a locksmith and have them make a key for it. You can also pull the cylinder out of the door and have them match key the ignition cylinder if it isn't the same. You can order a key from a dealer, but if that cylinder has been replaced before then the dealer key probably won't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travis1990 Posted October 5, 2011 Author Share Posted October 5, 2011 I forgot to mention something. The engine will only rev to about 4000 RPM then it's like it's hitting the rev limiter. And I got broke down on the side of the road, please help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 Get the CEL Codes, even if the CEL is not on, you may have codes stored. Once you have them written down, clear the memory. Make sure you've taken care of the basic maintenance, clean battery terminals, cleand body and engine grounds... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 Sounds like you are in limp mode. Try pulling the codes for sure, something is going on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travis1990 Posted October 6, 2011 Author Share Posted October 6, 2011 Ok, I was planning on getting the codes on my day off tomorrow anyway. I'll let you guys know what I find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 The key is simple. Take the cylinder to a locksmith and have them make a key for it. You can also pull the cylinder out of the door and have them match key the ignition cylinder if it isn't the same. You can order a key from a dealer, but if that cylinder has been replaced before then the dealer key probably won't work. if you have the ignition cylinder don't bother with the door cylinder. door cylinders are much harder to remove and re-install. or buy a used ignition cylinder w/ a key. lots of those around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travis1990 Posted October 6, 2011 Author Share Posted October 6, 2011 Ok, so here's the codes I got. 21-Water Temperature Sensor. 23-Airflow Sensor. 31-Throttle Sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travis1990 Posted October 7, 2011 Author Share Posted October 7, 2011 (edited) My alldata manual shows plugs called E25,E30, and E31, but the FSM dosen't show those plugs. Where are they? Also, where is the CTS? It's supposed to be E5 on the last picture, but I couldn't find it on the car. Edited October 8, 2011 by travis1990 typo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 item #1 in the pic. the one with 2 wires. (the single wire unit goes to the gauge only.) it is located under the intake on top of the engine on the passenger side. you access it from the back side. the left end of the cross over pipe in the pic connects to the top radiator hose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travis1990 Posted October 8, 2011 Author Share Posted October 8, 2011 So, where are connectors E25,E30, and E31 located? I need to know so I can do the diagnostic procedure outlined in the factory service manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted October 8, 2011 Share Posted October 8, 2011 e connectors are on the engine, b connectors are on the bulkhead. the diagram is too small for me to see but there are only so many connectors on / under the intake. how many pins does it have? it is probably the one connected to the sensor. if you are testing the wiring you want to test from the very end, at the sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travis1990 Posted October 9, 2011 Author Share Posted October 9, 2011 Ok, here's a little update. The plugs I were looking for were the ones that go into the ECU. I got my multimeter out with the intent of checking the resistance of the wires going from the ECU to the mass airflow sensor to make sure it was within factory spec (less than 10ohms). Turns out I couldn't get continuity on one of the wires going from the ECU to the mass airflow sensor. Do you think I should run a new wire up to the mass airflow sensor from the ECU? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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