hi everyone this is my first post on this forum, im a nissan guy for the most part i have a 240sx with a rb25det swap and alot of other work done to it. i bought a 99 legacy gt for a daily driver and i wound up blowing one of the hg's, so i replaced them both along with the timing belt, etc. i put the engine back in the car and i cant get it to run i checked the compression, it was good, i changed the plugs and wires as well, the injectors are firing, but it just wont start. my father is an ase cert. subaru master tech. but he is stumped as well. it tries to run it cranks and cranks but its super rough and seems to be running on 2 cyls it will idle super rough for a second too, but then quits (it looks like its gonna jump out of the mounts). its definately timed properly. the only thing that isnt hooked up right is the ects because the one i got has a different plug so i was just gonna leave it off till i got it running, could this cause the car not to run? any other suggestions? thanks in advance for any help provided!!

btw the car has 165xxx miles on it and its been sitting with the engine out of it and the same gas for almost six months because ive been very busy working and have another car, i doubt it but could it be something as simple as bad gas?

SO many possiblies.

 

But often if it barely starts and dies a hose is off.

 

It's a rather ridgid hose that often is hard to spot with the naked eye. On the pass side it comes out of the airbox at the throttle body and heads over towards the strut mount. FEEL for both ends, since often it appears to be cnnected. It's roughly a foot or so lonh, a little over an inch in diameter?

 

It'll cause the start and immediate dieout.

all the plumbing is attached. the only thing not hooked up is the ects plug from the harness

could it be the lifters? i was told that could be the problem and that i may need to let it run for a while till the lifters are pumped up with oil pressure i was also told that since it sat for a while that the rings could be stuck and that they will eventually free up. it didnt leak down when i checked the compression so its not the valves as far as i can tell

are all 4 plugs firing? which 2 are?

 

what were your compression numbers?

 

what timing alignment marks did you use? arrows? or hash marks?

 

just in case,

notice that the arrows are not used. if you used the arrows, the hash marks may look good unless you double check the crank position. the key way needs to be in the 6 oclock position when the hash marks are lined up.

 

Edited November 21, 201114 yr by johnceggleston

i used the hash marks it was set up identically to your pic, all four plugs are firing, and as far as i can tell the problem is with the right side head (drivers side) compression in #1 was a little low but with no leak down the rest were fine. yesterday when i pulled the plugs to replace them the two right side plugs smelled like unburned fuel and there was visible liquid on them, the other too were fine. i just tried starting it again and it seemed a little more eager but still ran super rough, btw the radiator is not in the car at this point and i removed the accessory belts and timing covers to check the timing, so the alternator isnt running but i havent let the car run long enough to get hot and i have a brand new optima battery from my 240sx im using to crank it

Edited November 21, 201114 yr by dankindler
spelling

i ran a scan tool on it today and the only code it threw was for the coolant temp sensor im stumped

then start there. they are cheap.

Having the CTS unplugged will stop it from doing cold start enrichment. Try splashing some gas on the air filter before starting it.

 

Re-check the timing belt, especially the crank. There's a hash mark on one of the reluctor teeth that the crank sensor reads, that's the one that needs to be aligned with the mark on the crank sensor mounting boss.

ive checked and rechecked the timing. could it just be the cts causing it not to run right? ill get a new cts and then ill put it all back together to see if i can get it to run. im gonna pull the heads off again if i cant get it running right because i cant think of where else the problem lies. im worried i may have done something wrong when i was putting the heads back on, i had them cleaned and resurfaced before i reinstalled them and the guy told me that everything was good with them.

Edited November 22, 201114 yr by dankindler
spelling

i ordered the proper ects im gonna try it tomorrow ive looked into it on this board and found that there have been people with similar problems to the one that im having who had a bad sensor so hopefully thats it ill post results tomorrow thanks for the help everyone

well i installed the proper coolant temp sensor and it started easier and ran a little better but it still idles rough and seems to me that it is only running on 3 cylinders i dont know where else to go with it now

i put it all completely together i put coolant in it ran it but its still running like ************ i think that cyl #1 is missing but its not throwing any misfire codes and the injector is pulsing it has spark and compression was good. it was showing the cts code p0117 and an iac code p1520 but i cleared them after i installed the new coolant sensor and ran it for a minute and it didnt produce any new codes or run any better

i rechecked the timing also all the plugs for spark and injectors again, while i was tinkering with it i got underneath after i had it running for a while and found gasoline and oil has been seeping out from the exhaust on the rh side, i think that i have a stuck injector thats dumping fuel so im going to replace all four over the weekend and see what happens, happy thanks giving everyone