Arty Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 Ok, I value my sanity. I come to you, the fine people of USMB, hoping to finally figure out *TWO* quite perplexing issues. Here they are (on two different cars) 1st- My wife's car is a 1995 Legacy LS wagon, automatic, 2.2 liter. I've replaced the knock sensor (which was totally destroyed), and I just replaced the engine coolant temp sensor. Both caused the car to run increasingly better after the individual jobs were done, but the car is still experiencing sudden stalls when braking at stop lights or stop signs. Nothing dramatic happens now that I've changed the ECTS. Before I did, the car would rev up and down, freak out, then stall. Now it just drops and stalls. Absolutely no CELs, and the car seems to run just fine, all things considered. ANY idea what it could be??? 2nd- My car is a 1995 Legacy Outback, wagon of course, 5 speed, 2.2 liter. The heater/AC doesn't work. When I turn the switch, I hear a click in the relay, and when the AC is engaged, the compressor kicks on and everything seems fine, but nothing blows the air. Today I did a lot of testing, and here's what I found- Everything is getting the proper voltage, all the way to the blower wires. My blower is perfectly fine. I put it in my wife's car, worked just fine. I put her blower motor in my car (her heat works great), nothing. The most perplexing of this all, however, is this- When I put the windshield defrost on and turn the switch, the radiator fans kick on. This was all done while the car was on ACC, but it also kicked the fans into a higher speed while the engine was running. What. The. Hell. PLEASE HELP! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 1. Sound like a vacuum leak. Specifically, I had the same problem a few days ago when the hose that goes to the IAC was disconnected accidentally when I checked the air filter 2. You checked voltages, but what about the ground? Can you try to measure the voltage present at the ground pin at the blower connector with the motor connected and the blower on? My guess is that the blower is getting grounded through the deicer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 first problem bould be a sticky IAC, since it actuates from the sensors, but maybe it is slow resonding and stalls. worth a shot asgeneral maintenance to clean/seafoam it. 2nd problem sounds ground related. go over anywhere you have been in your car and had things apart, and make sure there is no small wire left ungrounded somewhore between screws. things tpically ground at their switches. you may need to hit the scematic for this one. inspect anywhre wire harnesses could have abraded against anything(in areas you have worked on the car) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arty Posted December 4, 2011 Author Share Posted December 4, 2011 Great ideas, I will check them out next weekend. It's too wet and cold to do anything today, but I like all the ideas. Now... About the hoses- I checked them and they all *seemed* ok. Any ideas on how to possibly track down a troublesome hose? About the IAC- I've seafoamed and electronics-cleanered the hell out of that area. It didn't really seem to make much of a difference... is it possible it (IAC) or the TPS could be bad altogether? Also- I drove the LS earlier to try and get it to stall again. It didn't stall this time, but it DID get ready to. The RPMs dipped way down to about 200-300, they jumped up a bit twice, and the transmission fluid light came on for a very split second, then the car started running right again. Any thoughts on that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95legwagon Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 the blower problem i have had also....replaced everything and still didnt work.....wired up a switch (30amp) and some wire to it (also rated for 30 amps) and called it a day. i couldnt figure it out but it has something to do with the ignition circuit on these years. i have a 95 leg ls wagon also 2.2 auto though. good luck! also for the 1st legacy..... have you checked to make sure your fuel pump can keep up pressure in the line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arty Posted December 4, 2011 Author Share Posted December 4, 2011 the blower problem i have had also....replaced everything and still didnt work.....wired up a switch (30amp) and some wire to it (also rated for 30 amps) and called it a day. i couldnt figure it out but it has something to do with the ignition circuit on these years. i have a 95 leg ls wagon also 2.2 auto though. good luck! also for the 1st legacy..... have you checked to make sure your fuel pump can keep up pressure in the line? I have not. I've thought about it being a fuel issue as well. I need a special tool for that, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 #1 Probably a sticky IAC. You might need to remove it and spray it out with Intake and Throttle Body cleaner. But another thing to check is the brake booster. Engine running sitting in park, press the pedal down slowly and listen for the sound of air hissing. You may hear a "whoosh" as the pedal goes down but it should stop when the pedal stops. If any whoosh or hissing noise continues when the pedal is not moving, the booster has a hole in it and is acting as a large vacuum leak. #2 The bower motor is grounded through the fan switch. Check the connector on the back of the fan switch, make sure it's plugged in all the way. The mode control panel shares the same ground, if that works then probably the fan switch itself is bad. Radiator fans on with the defrost is normal operation, even with the engine off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 (edited) Everything is getting the proper voltage, all the way to the blower wires.My blower is perfectly fine. I put it in my wife's car, worked just fine. I put her blower motor in my car (her heat works great), nothing. Your blower is most likely not getting power then. When you measured the voltage at your blower wires, was that with the blower connected/plugged in? If not, that is the real test, measuring the voltage across the blower wires with the load in place. Since the ground is switched on the blower, you could measure +12V w/r/t ground on one of the wires but the blower still may not work. I had a Ford Escort that did this to me, since I had no money to fix, I simply connected an alligator clip jumper to the grounded fan lead, and connected that to the ash tray when I wanted the blower on. Yes it was either full speed or nothing, but better than nothing at all. The most perplexing of this all, however, is this-When I put the windshield defrost on and turn the switch, the radiator fans kick on. This was all done while the car was on ACC, but it also kicked the fans into a higher speed while the engine was running. That is not perplexing at all; when you go to defrost, many cars also run the AC, which means the compressor comes on and either the main and/or sub fan depending on conditions. It seems on soobs the car does not have to be running; simply having the key in the run position is enough. It's something like this: Edited December 7, 2011 by porcupine73 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arty Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 #1 Probably a sticky IAC. You might need to remove it and spray it out with Intake and Throttle Body cleaner. But another thing to check is the brake booster. Engine running sitting in park, press the pedal down slowly and listen for the sound of air hissing. You may hear a "whoosh" as the pedal goes down but it should stop when the pedal stops. If any whoosh or hissing noise continues when the pedal is not moving, the booster has a hole in it and is acting as a large vacuum leak. #2 The bower motor is grounded through the fan switch. Check the connector on the back of the fan switch, make sure it's plugged in all the way. The mode control panel shares the same ground, if that works then probably the fan switch itself is bad. Radiator fans on with the defrost is normal operation, even with the engine off. I will be trying both of these first. If they don't work, then... Your blower is most likely not getting power then. When you measured the voltage at your blower wires, was that with the blower connected/plugged in? If not, that is the real test, measuring the voltage across the blower wires with the load in place. Since the ground is switched on the blower, you could measure +12V w/r/t ground on one of the wires but the blower still may not work. I had a Ford Escort that did this to me, since I had no money to fix, I simply connected an alligator clip jumper to the grounded fan lead, and connected that to the ash tray when I wanted the blower on. Yes it was either full speed or nothing, but better than nothing at all. That is not perplexing at all; when you go to defrost, many cars also run the AC, which means the compressor comes on and either the main and/or sub fan depending on conditions. It seems on soobs the car does not have to be running; simply having the key in the run position is enough. It's something like this: Alligator clips it is. Thanks guys!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95legwagon Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 I have not. I've thought about it being a fuel issue as well. I need a special tool for that, right? yes you would need a fuel pressure guage....but i believe you could "borrow" that from autozone for a small fee. i *think* its supposed to be around 40-45 psi but i could be wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaraK Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 #1 (Wifes' car)...I am no Subaru (or any car) expert, but... Had 3 GM's do a similar thing recently... selenoid in the tranny. ($30.part+filter,gasket,fluid) Has to do with the torque converter lock up- that's all I know. Seems to fit your symptoms... Really closely (too close for comfort to be anything else, in my opinion)... For what it's worth... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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