Rust Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 1993 loyale 4wd ea82 tbi.(fuel injection) Engine ran fine when pulled from donor car 2 yrs ago. Replaced all the gaskets(except intake gaskets) and installed it this weekend. Motor has about 130,000 miles Symptoms: lobes at idle between 1000 and 2000 RPM. Poor acceleration, choppy, but picks up at higher RMPs. Put a new fuel filter on and plan to get a new set of plugs and wires. Any suggestions of what else to check? I checked all the vacuum lines and they seem ok but maybee I need to check them again. any suggestions appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deener Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 First thought is vaccum lines for sure, but you checked them. Its a good idea to spray carb cleaner on the vaccum points (don't forget to hit the intake manifold where the gaskets meet the heads) and if you get a rise in idle, you've found a leak. Also make sure you are getting the correct resitance on your temp sensor (light green electrical connector that is right near the T-stat housing). I know from experience that it can be out just enough to not throw a code, but also enought to cause you some issues. Serach around here on the forum for the correct resistance value. Give the throttle body and intake a good cleaning, hows that air filter too... There is one more not-so-obvious bit (where my idle was fluctuating) that I experinced last week on my 93 Loyale...it was a bad alternator, believe it or not. I am guessing the voltage was fluctuating or something because as soon as I put in a new alt, the idle stabilized. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rust Posted December 9, 2011 Author Share Posted December 9, 2011 yeah, I'll double check the vacuum lines again. I have plenty of spare alternaters(plus a brand new one in the box.) so I'll try that tip also. There is an electrical connection at the air filter box(air flow meter) could that be the culprit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 make sure you have connected the vacuum canister vacuum line, it comes off the passenger strut, and has a fitting to a slightly larger hose going to the passenger side of the intake. It is an easy one to miss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 It won't fix the idle issue, but change all your water hoses (including the little ones hidden under and around the intake manifold). Also: how did you change everything but the intake gaskets? Or did you leave the headgaskets intact as well? Sorry, just confused. Oh, almost forgot: check that your throttle cable/assembly is in good shape and lubricated. A sticky or jammed cable can cause headaches when you want the engine to go from "I need to up-shift" to "I need to sit at a light". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rust Posted December 20, 2011 Author Share Posted December 20, 2011 Update: have put about 1500 miles on the engine since the install. Keep in mind this engine was sitting in a barn for 2 yrs before putting it in the car. Here's the list of new parts put on before the install. ngk plugs valve cover gaskets rear main seal oil pan gasket gas filter(for a mazda) The idleing issue is much better, not perfect but no lobeing or major issues. The last bug to work out is high rev acceleration. It stumbles a bit accelerating through the gears..... especially going up steep grades. Feels like a misfire issue or a clogged fuel filter. Its not that dramatic but annoying none the less. Since the plugs and filter are brand new, I'm thinking I might still have some vacuum or sensor issue. Any ideas what to look at next? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 i was having a stumbling problem with one of my ea82s. i had it timed right and everything hooked up how it shouldve been. i retensioned the timing belts and got all the slop out of them and its way happier now. hth RV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rust Posted December 20, 2011 Author Share Posted December 20, 2011 Good tip, I'll take a look at the belts. May try a different dizzy cap also from the parts bin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rust Posted December 23, 2011 Author Share Posted December 23, 2011 Update: Put a cap and rotor on from the old motor. The rotor that was in there was pretty pitted. Starts much quiker now. Still moderate stumbling (better than before). Stumbles going through the gears(slightly) and on steep grades on the highway. I can live with it the way it drives now, would be nice to solve this mystery completely. The volt meter does not wobble when it stumbles on the highway(constant 14) so I don't think it's a sensor/voltage issue. Going to try increasing tension on the timming belts next. How much flex should there be? Don't want to overtighten them and snap them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 you wont really be able to "overtighten" them. the tensioners will get em tight enough. what you need to dois get all the slack to the tensioner side of the belt, if im explaining it well enough. on the drivers side you need to get the belt as tight as possible on the bottom side of the cam gear and around to the top. this allows the slop to be tightened by the tensioner. if your spring is worn out too bad it wont be toght enough, but they usually break when that happens. hth RV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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