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l75eya

school me on my EGR and CEL

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So I've searched and searched. It's hard to find things on small words through search, though I've found a few things about how to remove and clean the egr valve, which I have done.

 

My check engine light came on while he was experiencing his bout with the tick of death. It was oxygen sensor and EGR valve associated. I've since put a new oil pump in and all new seals and the T.O.D. is gone and Ben is happy again. However he still has a CEL. (Code 34)

 

I've taken the EGR valve off and blown out / vacummed the intake passages on both the manifold and the valve itself. Not too much soot in there, but a bit. I reinstalled the egr and tested it. At idle, if I push in the EGR the engine starts fluttering, so I know that the valve itself is okay, correct?

 

I've tried clearing the CEL by connecting both green and white connectors under the hood. With the engine running with these connectors both connected, my CEL is OFF. I let it run quite awhile like this. Disconnected them and the CEL is back on with a vengance.

 

No matter what I do, I can't get the light to go off. I checked what codes are thrown in every combination of connectors with the car running and not running with the ignition on. They are as follows:

 

Car running;

Both connected: code 7 (which is not listed in the USRM)

White connected only: code 34

Green connected only: code 7

Neither connected: code 34

 

Car not running ignition on:

Both: 7

White: 34

Green: 7

Neither: 34

 

I'm at a loss =\ any help guys?

 

BTW for those not familiar with Ben he is a SPFI 93 Loyale

Edited by l75eya
FYI

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So I've searched and searched. It's hard to find things on small words through search, though I've found a few things about how to remove and clean the egr valve, which I have done.

 

My check engine light came on while he was experiencing his bout with the tick of death. It was oxygen sensor and EGR valve associated. I've since put a new oil pump in and all new seals and the T.O.D. is gone and Ben is happy again. However he still has a CEL. (Code 34)

 

I've taken the EGR valve off and blown out / vacummed the intake passages on both the manifold and the valve itself. Not too much soot in there, but a bit. I reinstalled the egr and tested it. At idle, if I push in the EGR the engine starts fluttering, so I know that the valve itself is okay, correct?

 

I've tried clearing the CEL by connecting both green and white connectors under the hood. With the engine running with these connectors both connected, my CEL is OFF. I let it run quite awhile like this. Disconnected them and the CEL is back on with a vengance.

 

No matter what I do, I can't get the light to go off. I checked what codes are thrown in every combination of connectors with the car running and not running with the ignition on. They are as follows:

 

Car running;

Both connected: code 7 (which is not listed in the USRM)

White connected only: code 34

Green connected only: code 7

Neither connected: code 34

 

Car not running ignition on:

Both: 7

White: 34

Green: 7

Neither: 34

 

I'm at a loss =\ any help guys?

 

BTW for those not familiar with Ben he is a SPFI 93 Loyale

 

code 07 is nothing to worry about. it is the car classification code meaning you have a spfi automatic 49 state/canada model.

 

I can't offer any real help on your code 34 egr problem. hopefully someone else can chime in.

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Code 34 signifies an electrical failure of the solenoid that controls vacuum supply to the egr.You need to find a good used one if you want the egr to work.Take your ohmeter to the junkyard.

 

Light can be extinguished by subbing a resistor for the solenoid winding.

Do a search for the value.No egr in this case.

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Code 34 signifies an electrical failure of the solenoid that controls vacuum supply to the egr.You need to find a good used one if you want the egr to work.Take your ohmeter to the junkyard.

 

Light can be extinguished by subbing a resistor for the solenoid winding.

Do a search for the value.No egr in this case.

 

Alright, that's what I figured, if the EGR valve itself is still functioning properly, the only thing left is the solenoid, which may or may not be some disconnected/ fouled wires. I gotta get my hands on an ohmmeter. Thanks for reassuring me on that though. By the way, I found this page http://doc.angaar.ee/subaru/8797CH04_13-1.html that was pretty useful. Might have some other good stuff too.

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