After resealing ths oil pan twice I finally found this forum. I'm looking to either re-seal or replace the oil seperator plate. Should I pull the tranny or engine? I have a tranny jack and can get a engine hoist. I also have some sort of electrical issue. relay clicking under steering column and radiator fans going on and off when the key is at the "on" position. I have codes for both speed sensors, neutral saftey switch knock sensor and occasionally 02 sensors. Which method would give me better access to these sensors. I'm pretty sure I have a short somewhere because the speedo works fine. Any help or advice would be really appreciated. I'm not a mechanic but I'm skilled and broke! Thanks!

Either one can be pulled in about 2 hours. 3 if it's your first time.

So it comes down to would you rather,

A: sit or lay on the ground under the car while cleaning the back of the block

B: Put the engine on a work bench and work on it comfortably with easy access to all of your tools

:-p

 

Either way, do some research here on tips for removing the torque converter bolts, and making damn sure the torque converter is properly seated before bolting the engine and trans back together.

In a perfect world, the TC would not move after being unbolted from the flywheel. But every engine I've pulled from an auto trans car the TC eventually ends up getting bumped/turned/pulled and all it takes is 1/4" to screw everything up.

Someone probably connected the diagnostic connectors under the dash, which is why the fans and fuel pump relay are cycling. They're green and black and tucked up by the steering column above the pedals. The green ones will have no retaining clip, the black single pin connector will. They are meant to be un-connected unless you're doing a diagnostic check. People think it looks wrong and plug them together.

 

Have you done head gaskets yet on this engine? If it has never had them done, you could pull the engine and do a headgasket timing belt, idlers, tensioner, and water pump job. Use genuine subaru headgaskets.

 

The oil separator plate is a stamped sheetmetal one if you buy a replacement from the dealership. It's much better than the plastic one you have leaking now. 90-94's had a cast aluminum plate, which I think is best, but harder to come by.

I always pull the engine even though I have a car lift, "engine crane", and transmission jack here at home.

 

I use the opportunity to do any other maintenance. Plugs, wires, timing belt job, cam/crank seals, etc.

 

Never easier to assess and repair the engine than when it's out. By comparison what can you really check/repair on a tranny?

 

As pointed out regardless look at torque converter seating procedure.

 

And a 14mm swivel socket for the nut about drivers axle is your friend.

 

Several procedures here to pull the engine. The one I used to use for DOHC HG precedure was from "skipnospam" at comcast I believe as a guideline.

Thanks for the help! Love this forum! I'm going to tear into this in a few. First time Sub owner so additional tips and tricks appreciated! I'll be back to post progress and I'm sure, more questions. Thanks again!

If you'd update your profile with a USEFUL location there may be a member near you. Who has been through this before.

 

Skip (an old member here) helped me yank my first Subaru engine. And I've helped several others with enigne removal, timing belt jobs, etc.

 

A locaton in the thread is pretty usuless. As is "in the mountains", "up the creek", "tri-cities", etc.

Got the engine out. the main seal looks ok.....a little oil around the ring, not much. Should I replace it or assume the oil is there from the leaking seperator plate.?

A leaking rear main tends to throw oil around in all directions and make a huge mess. If there is only a trace of oil I would leave it alone. Replace / reseal the separator plate, and the o ring that goes under the access cover on the other side.

Here is a photo of the area courtesy of Beergarage.com that shows the plastic oil separator plate and the leak.

 

 

The access plate o-ring that fairtax mentioned is to the left of the main seal and its a good time to change that now as well. Leave the main seal alone unless its really leaking.

Would love to post a pic of the main seal but can't add attachments. Oil separator plate is plastic so thats being replaced. the main seal has more oil around it then the pic in the post above, especially at the top. Hate to mess with it if I don't need to but also hate thinking I may get it all back together and still have a leak. UGGG:drunk:

Odds are great that the rear main is O.K.

 

Odds also are that the installation of a new one is very easy to screw up.

 

Unless there is a lot of oil and obviousely from the rear main I'd leave it alone.

 

Lets put it this way. I've probably seen the back of close to 100 Subaru engines. Only 2 had a leaking rear main. Know what they had in common?

 

They had been replaced before!!

 

To post a pic I think you have to put it into your photo album here at USMB first.

Ok, thanks to this forum we got the engine back in after doing the OS plate, head gaskets, valve gaskets ect ect, car started right up and sounds great! However; now the temp gauge is not working, can someone point me in the direction of the connector I must of left un-plugged?(hopefully)

The temp gauge is run by a single wire sensor on the crossover pipe on top of the block. It's under the number 3 intake runner and probably obscured from view by the main engine harness.

 

It's not very visible in this pic but this shows the general area.

Edited March 18, 201214 yr by Fairtax4me

Due to the fact that I'm getting all the same codes, (both speed sensors, neautral safety switch, high and low input and a couple others) I checked the diagnostic connectors under the dash, there is a white connector on a teal green wire that isn't connected to anything. a black wire is there, has been cut( no connector ) wires exposed. I wrapped the exposed wires, it made no difference. The fans are still cycleing on and of with the key in the on position. Any Ideas.....So frustrated!

Think you want to look for the green pair of connectors:

 

http://codes.rennacs.com/photo-gallery/SUBARU-EFI-01-CHOICE-Photos.php

Found the green plugs and disconnected them, solved the fan problem, cleared the codes and I'll post if anything pops up. Thanks for all the help! Love my Subu again!