Baffles will have to wait.

 

Developed another issue/question. Was replacing front pads and rotors last night, got them all back together feeling pretty good about the job on the whole. Went for a quick jaunt down the street, hear a speed related crunching noise. Noise not really affected by braking except for when I get to near stop. Brakes also don't feel especially great, despite not having opened the system. Also the e-brake is much tighter than previously, like 2 clicks maximum. But I suppose that should be how it is?

 

Got it back to my shop and on the lift can't see anything out of the ordinary. I triple checked every bolt to make sure they were tight. Tried spinning both rotors with the wheels off, and I can turn it by hand (albeit with some effort) they spin as I would expect them too. Bolted the wheels back on so I could spin quicker, noticed the caliper is hitting the wheel in one spot as the wheel goes around. Right side more than the left but both are doing it. ....Ummm huh?

 

I'm totally stumped, I've done lots of brake jobs but never seen this. Now mind you it's a pretty slight hit, and obviously it got better by the time I got back to the house (clearanced itself). Any thoughts? ....let it clearance itself? Also the brakes just don't feel exceptionally great, like I think they felt better before this job. Really puzzling.

Baffles will have to wait.

 

Developed another issue/question. Was replacing front pads and rotors last night, got them all back together feeling pretty good about the job on the whole. Went for a quick jaunt down the street, hear a speed related crunching noise. Noise not really affected by braking except for when I get to near stop. Brakes also don't feel especially great, despite not having opened the system. Also the e-brake is much tighter than previously, like 2 clicks maximum. But I suppose that should be how it is?

 

Got it back to my shop and on the lift can't see anything out of the ordinary. I triple checked every bolt to make sure they were tight. Tried spinning both rotors with the wheels off, and I can turn it by hand (albeit with some effort) they spin as I would expect them too. Bolted the wheels back on so I could spin quicker, noticed the caliper is hitting the wheel in one spot as the wheel goes around. Right side more than the left but both are doing it. ....Ummm huh?

 

I'm totally stumped, I've done lots of brake jobs but never seen this. Now mind you it's a pretty slight hit, and obviously it got better by the time I got back to the house (clearanced itself). Any thoughts? ....let it clearance itself? Also the brakes just don't feel exceptionally great, like I think they felt better before this job. Really puzzling.

 

 

Would def. bleed the brakes.

E-brake is tighter because of the bigger pads in the front now. If you want to you can adjust the cable at the handle (I believe; somebody should correct me if I'm wrong) to have a bit more slack; give you some more clicks .

 

From what I've heard and experienced with these vehicles, the brakes always feel a *little* bit mushy. You get used to it.

As far as the caliper hitting the wheel, that's real strange. Try swapping a different wheel on there maybe, if it's still rubbing.

If it's really barely barely rubbing, I'd personally just let it grind itself away a bit. *shrugs* that's me though.

Honestly after thinking about it, its such a slight thing I'm probably gonna do exactly that (clearance itself). I just can't figure out why it would even happen. I will definitely bleed the fluid though, it looks disgusting. As far as mushy pedal is concerned, I'm gonna guess if I want any kind of upgraded lines I'll have to have them made.

I have a complete 5-lug conversion for sale....... Everything is good as most of it is coming from my driver, '89 XT6. I'm down that way quite often so shipping would be nonexistent:drunk:

what'd you have in mind?

Drove it into work today, noise is still there. Now that its not pouring rain/snow I can hear it better. It gets better when the brakes are applied, and gets worse when going around corners. Guessing bad wheel bearings, and before the pads and rotors were worn enough to not hit. Oh well, more work to do I guess haha. Cheap RX isn't cheap? Who knew ?

Going to work on paint this weekend most likely. Well, at least getting some of the prep out of the way. I have a number of rusty areas to tackle first.

 

I'm planning on painting it a different white than factory (toyota super white II, specifically). I had the paint, from an ae86 I was going to respray, but sold before I did so haha. I like it its very very white, as the name implies.

 

I can't however find a paint code for the bumpers' gray color.

 

http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/paintchips/paintchips.html

^that chart doesn't specifically cover 88 Subaru, and I haven't been able to find a picture of it in the old color chip books. I'm guessing gull gray would be right? Only problem then is, there's 2 gull grays, with different codes correlating to different years?!?! Anyone ever painted their RX bumpers the factory color and have some input? I mean I could wing it, and originality isn't that important to me (not painting original white). But if anyone knows that would be great.