miazda

Welcome I'm fairly new to the site, but also have an RX. Quirky is a way to describe them. Theres no aftermarket for the older subarus like there is for legacies and impreza's. Though I've had pretty good luck with a combination of dealership, autozone, and rockauto.com for most things. I don't know about the rear diff rebuild, if anything its probably the bearings in it. Which are available at least through rockauto. Post some pictures of what your working with

^yeah you gotta talk to the one older guy that's been there since who knows when. and have him dig through his book for the old part number, which does work in their system, but they often can't search that system directly. Good news they pretty good about supporting their cars, and being as common as it is likely not discontinued. If you're still having trouble let us know. I'm friends with my subaru parts guy, and can probably track it down.

I like rockauto.com

Is it just a c-clip? ....hardware store Perhaps dealer order?

Going to work on paint this weekend most likely. Well, at least getting some of the prep out of the way. I have a number of rusty areas to tackle first. I'm planning on painting it a different white than factory (toyota super white II, specifically). I had the paint, from an ae86 I was going to respray, but sold before I did so haha. I like it its very very white, as the name implies. I can't however find a paint code for the bumpers' gray color. http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/paintchips/paintchips.html ^that chart doesn't specifically cover 88 Subaru, and I haven't been able to find a picture of it in the old color chip books. I'm guessing gull gray would be right? Only problem then is, there's 2 gull grays, with different codes correlating to different years?!?! Anyone ever painted their RX bumpers the factory color and have some input? I mean I could wing it, and originality isn't that important to me (not painting original white). But if anyone knows that would be great.

Drove it into work today, noise is still there. Now that its not pouring rain/snow I can hear it better. It gets better when the brakes are applied, and gets worse when going around corners. Guessing bad wheel bearings, and before the pads and rotors were worn enough to not hit. Oh well, more work to do I guess haha. Cheap RX isn't cheap? Who knew ?

what'd you have in mind?

Honestly after thinking about it, its such a slight thing I'm probably gonna do exactly that (clearance itself). I just can't figure out why it would even happen. I will definitely bleed the fluid though, it looks disgusting. As far as mushy pedal is concerned, I'm gonna guess if I want any kind of upgraded lines I'll have to have them made.

Baffles will have to wait. Developed another issue/question. Was replacing front pads and rotors last night, got them all back together feeling pretty good about the job on the whole. Went for a quick jaunt down the street, hear a speed related crunching noise. Noise not really affected by braking except for when I get to near stop. Brakes also don't feel especially great, despite not having opened the system. Also the e-brake is much tighter than previously, like 2 clicks maximum. But I suppose that should be how it is? Got it back to my shop and on the lift can't see anything out of the ordinary. I triple checked every bolt to make sure they were tight. Tried spinning both rotors with the wheels off, and I can turn it by hand (albeit with some effort) they spin as I would expect them too. Bolted the wheels back on so I could spin quicker, noticed the caliper is hitting the wheel in one spot as the wheel goes around. Right side more than the left but both are doing it. ....Ummm huh? I'm totally stumped, I've done lots of brake jobs but never seen this. Now mind you it's a pretty slight hit, and obviously it got better by the time I got back to the house (clearanced itself). Any thoughts? ....let it clearance itself? Also the brakes just don't feel exceptionally great, like I think they felt better before this job. Really puzzling.

Good to know, guess I'll see if they're clogged or jammed in some way tonight and report back.

Had surgery so work on the RX was postponed for a couple weeks. But I replaced that hood linkage, as GD said it's not too bad to do, lubed up the catch mechanism so as to hopefully not have any further issues. Unclogged the windshield squirters, I'm pretty sure those squirters have a "rally pedigree" all their own judging by the amount of dirt removed. But both are working great and no money spent replacing. Started on brakes but ended up with the wrong pads, gonna finish that tonight. Had a foglight question though. Did some searching around on the site and from what I can tell it isn't a fused circuit but has a relay somewhere under the dash. Any idea what that looks like, or is placed, or what to look for? I replaced a bulb, checked the connections down there, and cleaned up the ground on the hood release (was already there anyway). No worky-work. So, barring a break in a wire, that relay is suspect. Just don't wanna tear blindly into the dash is all. Also took another look at that rear window problem. The window seal (glue I'm guessing) is done at the top, and every time you close the door the air pressure created makes it "pop" up about 1/2-1". Ummm. Yeah. Guess I'll see if a glass company will reseal it? Dunno if theres an at-home remedy for something like that. Also, it seems that same air pressure makes the doors hard to get shut all the way, is there an air baffle somewhere on these old subarus? I know on most newer things its tucked in the back bumper area. Just wondering if this is a problem anyone has experienced, and after I get it resealed is this a recurring issue?

^thankfully I doubt anyone wants my ************box.... and to open it the first time I just reached around behind the bumper and tripped the lever by hand. Also, about the hoses, thats good advice. Thankfully I'm pretty diligent about noticing symptoms and have had that exact thing happen to me before (different car).

^good to hear that. Lol I was reading here some thread about heater hoses being replaced and thought "huh I should probably do that soon." Welp, the car said today was the day, on my way home from work. Didn't overheat, I felt the heat go cold and killed it quick. This is why you have AAA kids Haha.

So it diesels when you kill the ignition? Usually that's a result of timing in my experience with old carb'd engines.

If it grinds a bit going into first while rolling thats pretty typical of subaru 5 speeds. It's a rather old design. That being said the above advice on redline oil is pretty sound. Every subaru 5 speed I've driven has 1st gear hangups, it just comes with the territory.

Is there an off the shelf braided option? Or something you'd have to get made?

I have an RX and am also considering ej swap. When I do that however, I planned on buying a running legacy vehicle so I'd get everything. Afterwards part out what's left, and scrap the shell to make some money back. And running legacies are very cheap these days. Junkyard engines :-/ whole Lotta work involved for something you haven't heard run. Just my thoughts on it.

I have a temp gun, I'll do that and report back. Though after a quick jaunt I noticed it was a little higher up on the gauge then previously... so maybe after sitting so long the gauge is just being stubborn. Got a few more questions of problems that have sprung up. Went to check on boost gauge misread, reached in pulled on hood release and cable came out about 5 inches in the process. Didn't think I 'hulked' it too hard but whatever. Popped the hood the hard way, went about my business. Went to investigate the linkage and its disappeared inside it's sleeve... tried to push on opposite end with no luck. Guessing its time for a new one.... looks like a whore to replace and after checking a rockauto and ebay for it I guess it's going to be a dealer part? Certainly open to suggestions of fixing/replacing. Second issue of the day, I've noticed the back hatch rattles and clunks. When I shut either door with the windows up the air pressure created makes the r/r upper corner of the hatch bounce up about 1." looked at how it's mounted and apparently the studs are mounted from the inside, so I pulled the plastic trim, no obvious looseness or gaps, tried to tighten, no budge. Checked outside bolts, also not loose and (very difficult to reach) not wanting to budge.... uhhhh ....I'm baffled. All the bolts involved are factory paint, never been touched as I can tell. Next pressing issue, my R/F fender is crunched, corner marker busted to death, and grey plastic moulding gone. According to rockauto (I know not most reliable database) the fenders are different on a 2 door coupe. So my question is what if any difference is there between the wagons and the coupe front ends? Will a fender and corner marker fit up off a wagon?

welp pulled the housing, found there was a thermostat which looked good. Went ahead and replaced it with one I had bought, and bled out the system. Got a fair amount of bubbles out, and the heater is a lot warmer. But for whatever reason it still reads really low on the guage ...count my blessings?

I suppose its worth mentioning... I bought and installed a new radiator for it. It's an all steel unit, but it was for an automatic car, and I just blocked off the trans cooler lines. Guess its worth asking if its same size it shouldn't change the cooling characteristics much ...right?

Yeah but I won't hold my breath. Going to install thermo tomorrow and see what happens. In that process though, is there any bleed procedure or will it self bleed? Thanks for the info on the HG's, I have seen the thermostat bubble on other cars but never without other correlating symptoms of power loss/missing etc.

After playing around with it I'm pretty certain the switch is bad, if you press on the switch in the other positions the blower motor works. And the thermostat :-\ I would be mad. Took a lot of effort just to get it up and running to take it all apart again for a supposedly "good" motor. I have a pressure tester for the coolant system, guess I could test it tomorrow. It doesn't act like a BHG like I've experienced before, doesn't run hot, no loss of power or misses anything of the usual sort.

trading with/for what?

Howdy, Name is Zane, intro thread for pics/info is here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=130470 . As stated there I'm sort of thinking of a little restoration, at this point in my life I care more about clean and functional than all out insanity. Going to probably have a series of questions, and certainly appreciate any advice tips given! I've searched a quite a bit and just want to verify some of this stuff. First question is about the blower motor heating system. Symptoms include, engine that runs super cold, (guessing previous owner removed thermo, praying for no HG leak), produces warm but never hot air and registers near the bottom on the gauge in the cluster, fan motor also only works on speed 3. At first it seemed like it wouldn't blow out the defrost vents period, but now it seems like it will a bit (though I have no experience with this car, and it doesn't output a ton of air). From reading up on this it would seem as though the switch is bad, possibly the relay. I had read one thread which led me to believe it might be the resistor pack so I went ahead and ordered one (oops). Also, the car lived in a field, mouse got into system. Easiest way to clean out the blower box? Hoping for a no pull-o the dash-o scenario! So I'm asking this: does it seem like the switch or the relay or both? where is the relay located specifically? Where is best option to get a functional switch if that's the case, or is there a way to rebuild it?

Howzit, My name is Zane, live in Sandy, OR. Not a n00b by any means just never really posted on this forum. Certainly many thanks for all the good information, I've read up a ton. Sorta know Tex a little bit (seems like everyone does). Reason for joining, well few years back I bought an RX from my friend Zack. It got blowed up, and sat in the field for past couple years. Finally found a good example of an ea82t to swap into it and just got it running a week ago. My plans for the car are to fix a number of its quirks and somewhat restore it to its previous glory. Pics of the RX I also have own 2 foresters, 2004 xt and 2010 forester limited. Also, I don't just drink the Subaru Kool-aid, I've owned just about everything. Autox'd miatas for a number of years, owned old school, new school, weird cars, and just about everything inbetween. Pics of subarus below... 2004 xt (reBUILT engine) 2010 forester... hmm no pics of that one, its stock pearl white who cares haha. Anyway, just wanted to make an intro. I'll have a couple tech questions later on in regards to the RX, but didn't want to be 'that guy' who made an account to ask one question and then disappear.