I am curious how hard/easy it would be to put a 5 spd dual/range from an 87 gl wagon in my 86 gl-10 trubo with 5 speed s/r. I havent seen many posts in my search of the board so it seems like it might just be a plug and play type deal. thanks!:cool:

yes, it is. You have to swap over the axles for this one, but you use the same clutch, driveshaft, and trans mounts. You will have to sewap the rear diff to match the d/r gear.

ok so i need to swap both axels? this sounds daunting but i checked it out and saw that it looked pretty simple as well. maybe a weekend project? so basically i should get the real differential from the same car im getting the dual range? thanks so much for the info.

 

lee

i realized my last reply was a little vague, by both axels i meant up front and in the back? i imagine it would make sense to put the rear axels from the car im getting the tranny and differential from on my car. just wasnt sure if the rear axels changed in 87 like front ones.

 

thanks,

 

lee

its not the year that changed them its the aspiration type. turbos:25 spline. NA:23 spline. youll need the d/r trans w its axles and diff. the rear axles are the same, i used the whole rear suspension from a gl10 on my loyale wag w loyale diff and it fits.

 

 

RV

awesome thanks!

just the front axles. all ea82 and xt rear axles are 32 spline regardless of the configuration.

 

If you want fatter axles up front, you cn use turbo axles from a 3at, which has the same diameter as the existing axles, but are 23 splines as well for the new dual range trans.

...maybe a weekend project?....

 

Just a tip to make it go faster, the studs on the engine are a bit long... and annoying. However, to make it easier to slide on, you can tip the engine back for a more agreeable angle. Easiest way is to just a jack under the front. Don't go too far, don't want to stress the mounts. Just enough to get the angle.

I did this on my 87gl10 it was very straight forward and very worth it. The 3.90 ratio with low is ungodly I mean full on drifting into angles that seem impossible to save but you can with more throttle. Plus the push button likes to wear out or get frozen in winter.

 

I went with the turbo 3at axles in the front and I just swapped the rear diff with the axles on it

 

Also make sure you don't tear the rear diff bushings otherwise in 4000 miles you will have a clunk every time you hit the gas like I do.

 

And last but not least check you existing rear diff to see if it's LSD if it is keep it. Mine was LSD but I didn't grab it befor the parts car was taken away.

So i finally got the tranny and differential out of the parts car to clean and get ready for the swap. I want to get new axles for the front, and would like to get some from a 3AT since they are apparently beefier. all of the aftermarket axle that are 23 spline, seems to be well not beefier just replacements for even an n/a MT. can i only get beefier axles that are remanumactured? if so who should i go with?

 

also, one of the damn rear axles is stuck in the rear diff. that i need. tried hooking a pry bar around it and whacking that with a bfh, no budge. gonna hit it with pb blasters for the next couple of days to try to separate it before i start tearing the thing apart to get to the stud. let me know if any of you have any tricks for getting one of these out. im afraid to heat it cause i dont want to damage the seals.

So I have the d/r in my GL-10, but i just noticed that my GL-10 (push button) has only a 4 pin white connector and a black connector. my d/r has a 6 pin white connector. this car is equipped with the digi dash. would love to keep it.

 

i did notice there was a way to switch the connectors on the transmissions themselves which would make it match up, but their are less wires on the push button harness than the d/r.

 

please tell me what the hell i should do.

 

thanks,

 

lee