95legwagon Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 (edited) well i did it ( well most of its done) everything works so far.... just need to put in the rear diff before i fry my diff. no wierd sounds, clutch engaged very nicely, started right up with no wiring mods except the little black switch next to the 4eat shifter. i kept the inhibitor switch plugged in and left it in the park position so it starts. idle is a little high upon startup but as soon as its warm idles right around 800-1000rpm sometimes a lil lower. no CEL as of yet. performs well for running off center diff. (ugh) clutch is really touchy because its stage 1..... but otherwise runs like a champ..... smh at all those people on other sites saying you HAVE to ground the pin on the ecu and do all kinds of wiring. only things left to complete: rear diff install and back half of driveshaft, reverse lights (easy). thats it. didnt ground the ecu pin, didnt wire in the neutral safety switch. easy peazy.... just dropped trans and such components in and drove off. flywheel bolts were a B**** though! on there with over 150 ft lbs of torque!! ended up rounding almost all of them off.... walked to sears and got a rounded bolt remover set..... and worked like a charm! thanks to EVERYONE here for their help ( fairtax, gd , gloyal, lmdew, 987687 plus anyone who i missed) i appreciate all the help!! -jarrid oh and p.s. to whoever comes across needing mt tranny mount bolts doing a 5 speed swap ( use your old crossmember bolts ) they are the same size!! EDIT: MY BAD LOL CEL DID appear a day after getting it done on my way to work..... almost all wiring is done ....just need to do the NSS. Edited April 16, 2012 by 95legwagon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 (edited) Just out of curiosity, what are you calling the inhibitor switch? The inhibitor switch is located in/on the automatic transmission. The idle issue is likely due to the ECU still thinking it's an automatic. You really should consider pulling the TCU out if it's still in, and jumpering pins 11 & 12 on the AT B15 connector to allow the car to start. You'll also need to pull out the key interlock controller so the key can be removed from the ignition. Adding the neutral sensor & reverse lights are minor as you pointed out. Have you read over my swap write-up? It's for the first gen Legacy, but I've got a lot of details on what exactly needs to be done with the electrical, and generally speaking, it should be the same/similar for the 95 legacy http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap Edited April 11, 2012 by Legacy777 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95legwagon Posted April 16, 2012 Author Share Posted April 16, 2012 i am calling the switch on the side of the 4eat that mounts right where the shifter cable is..... it tells the tcu/ecu what gear your in. i wired it up almost 100% now. just gotta get pin 78 on the ecu to nss and pull 2 of the 3 plugs on the tcu ( so i dont loose abs) which sucks anyways on these cars lol. also never had a problem removing the key...... i dont think i have a key interlock....or at least i must of done something right that i didnt know of LOL edit: so your the guy that wrote that? awesome write up!!! ive read over it many times.... in fact i think ive read your whole website on more than one occasion lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 Yup, I'm the guy that wrote it Glad to hear it's been helpful for you. If you leave the TCU in, then you may not have experienced the key interlock issue yet. Since my car doesn't have ABS I didn't really didn't have to mess with that. However I haven't heard any real issues with other first gen legacy folks that have done the swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njdrsubaru Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 oh and p.s. to whoever comes across needing mt tranny mount bolts doing a 5 speed swap ( use your old crossmember bolts ) they are the same size!! the bolts were the same for the rear part of the crossmember, the front ones i had to look for new 17mm bolts.... thank god i have countless cans of subaru bolts lol did u end up getting the p1101 code? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95legwagon Posted April 20, 2012 Author Share Posted April 20, 2012 didnt get that CEL yet....that i know of..... still have a CEL but havent scanned it yet.....pretty sure its for the NSS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recian Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 I read the link you gave on the swap you followed and he says removing ground @ terminal 20 at the ECM is what tells the ECM it's a mt instead of at. Was your car the same way? Seeing as pin20 isnt used in my 95 impreza 2.2 ecm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 It will likely be a different pin for the Impreza. I don't have the wiring diagrams, so hopefully someone can comment on which pin the MT/AT identifier is on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recian Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 All the guides ive found were on legacy 2.2s and the ecm was number 81. Which is also a blank in the impreza 2.2 ecm. They seem to be pinned similar with minor differences Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95legwagon Posted September 3, 2012 Author Share Posted September 3, 2012 it was in fact pin 81 for at/mt id pin. and make sure you wire up the neutral switch otherwise your car will run like crap and throw a cel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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