Rick James Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 (edited) 93 Loyale 161,000 miles Front main seal looks dry, cam seals look dry..replacing them anyway ( i think).. Oil is dispersed everywhere making it difficult to pinpoint where it's coming from...I'll do the valve cover gaskets....am I doing the head gaskets? I can't exactly clean it up and try to recreate a leak with the engine out right? SO this means I'm doing everything? humor me many thanks Edited May 20, 2012 by Rick James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertsubaru Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 Might as well get a complete gasket set and reseal the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick James Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share Posted May 20, 2012 (edited) yeah, guess I'm only kidding myself into thinking someone's going to say no need to get carried away... any recommendations on complete gasket sets are welcome thanks RJ edit..and a link to dealing with the cylinder heads, piston rings etc...not that I won't be searching but about to get greasy thanks again Edited May 20, 2012 by Rick James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 You mean the motors AREN'T supposed to look like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 If you're planning to pull out the pistons - just junk it and find a good runner. There's no point in rebuilding EA82's. I do Subaru's every day. There's no point in rebuilding any of the engines or transmissions unless you are working on a 2000+ model or you are doing something really historic like an EA81 or older. EA82's are a dime a dozen and are not worth the expense to rebuild. I got a good replacement EA82 SPFI block a few months ago for $75. Runs great. The Loyale bodied cars aren't worth the time and resources to do an engine rebuild. The investment is too great for the return. The car will still be worth less than $1k. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick James Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share Posted May 20, 2012 Thanks I was just coming back in to say "somebody stop me" Trust me, I don't wanna rebuild but reasoned in my brain if I have to take cylinder heads off to install new gaskets in I'm exposing the pistons and dealing with rings...don't wanna do this. I've just wiped clean the cylinder heads to the block, pretty sure I've got the verbiage right but I could be wrong... Anyway, the two (four altogether)gaskets closest to the block than the valve covers, (Cylinder head and head gasket??) after having been wiped clean look tighter than a cat's rump roast. There's enough gasket sealer exposed and some head gasket that looks dry, not oozing anything. The only gasket area that looks oily is the lower valve covers..everything looked oily before wiping but these appear "wet". Is it possible that all the oil spread on the engine is coming from the lower valve covers?? There's plenty of oil under and around the powers steering unit...everywhere on the front an top front has a nice old thick coating of oil....the oil pan as well, covered kinda thick. The oil pump itself, looks tight and dry... I'm thinking of just doing the valve gaskets??, & the cam seals ..Though they look good, & the main front seal??.. though that looks good... Should I just leave well enough alone at 161,000 miles. Even my timing belts looked good and am certain they have at least 120,000 miles.. ..but don't wanna stray from the oil subject Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertsubaru Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 If you're planning to pull out the pistons - just junk it and find a good runner. There's no point in rebuilding EA82's. I do Subaru's every day. There's no point in rebuilding any of the engines or transmissions unless you are working on a 2000+ model or you are doing something really historic like an EA81 or older. EA82's are a dime a dozen and are not worth the expense to rebuild. I got a good replacement EA82 SPFI block a few months ago for $75. Runs great. The Loyale bodied cars aren't worth the time and resources to do an engine rebuild. The investment is too great for the return. The car will still be worth less than $1k. GD Thats area dependent on finding EA82s. Here in West Virginia they are as rare as hens teeth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick James Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share Posted May 20, 2012 I dunno...a two year old would have had no problem turning the ratchet to get the10mm bolts off which are holding the valve covers on...is this unusual? As far as the rubber seals of the valve covers?? ..Looks good to me, a little wet, but flexible and no breaks, don't see how theses thing goes bad....but it's the only obvious place where oil might be leaking?? Should the bolts just be cranked tighter?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertsubaru Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 I dunno...a two year old would have had no problem turning the ratchet to get the10mm bolts off which are holding the valve covers on...is this unusual? As far as the rubber seals of the valve covers?? ..Looks good to me, a little wet, but flexible and no breaks, don't see how theses thing goes bad....but it's the only obvious place where oil might be leaking?? Should the bolts just be cranked tighter?? Every bolt has a torque specification but a lot of people just tighten them down hard thinking that seals better when in truth it over compresses the gaskets. If you go cheap now you will just have problems later. While you have the engine out reseal it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick James Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share Posted May 20, 2012 My thinking re: exposing the pistons when removing the cylinder heads is fuzzy right? I just remember doing a ring job on a motorcycle many years ago and don't want to be dealing with any rings while re-installing the cylinder heads... I won't have to..right?? that said, the gaskets "seem" to be tight and dry around the heads after wiping them.. thanks for keep humoring me..and I know yur right, ds, if I don't take care of things now while the engine is out.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 Pulling heads only exposes piston tops. On the motorcyle engine whole cylinder comes off the block....not the case here. A headgasket set is cheap. And it will include everything and you'll know it's been done. While in there, you can clean all the crusty carbon deposits off the piston tops. (a brass wire brush tool on a drill or dremel works great) GD.....common, really better to slap in some leaky junk yard engine with ?xxxK miles? I say you got 90% of the work done to get in and do HG's....so why not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick James Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share Posted May 20, 2012 A part of me thinks like you Gloyal that it should get done whether they look tight or not..another part of me thinks if they haven't been compromised leave it alone. I'm not getting a visual of "wet" gaskets from the cylinder heads. Haven't pulled the trigger on going deeper so am killing time cleaning the engine.. Is there any cleaner I can just spray on and hose off, literally... wire brush and rag and wd40 is getting old. In defense of GD, I believe he thought I would willingly fuss with the pistons and rings ...thanks for clearing up the motorcycle vs Suby piston thing.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 GD.....common, really better to slap in some leaky junk yard engine with ?xxxK miles? He was talking about pulling pistons..... At that stage of his post I assumed he had a good reason to be doing such invasive work. As it turns out it sounds like he just needs a reseal. I wouldn't neccesarily go hunting for a replacement engine if it just needs HG's. But anything deeper..... I would install a good used engine. NOT a "leaky junk yard engine" - one that's come from a running car and been fully resealed with new HG's on up. But that's just how I would do it. Though I do have a perfect track record of building excellent running EA82's among my EA82 customers. I may not like them but they can be decent reliable cars if cared for properly. I just wouldn't own one for myself GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stubies Subie Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 GD did my EA82 and I couldn't be happier, it runs perfect, and even has torque cams installed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 It may not be a gasket at all, if things are nice and tight and you have good compression. Could be a leaky PCV valve and/or hose. Could be a leaky oil pump, or camshaft seals. Last but not least, if it's an old motor and never been cleaned...there is a saying (I didn't invent it) that "if it's not leaking, it's probably out". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 i vote for the valve covers and the grommets leaking, and the cam tower seam where it meets the head. puling the heads is un-neccessary if there is no HG issues. once you have the cam towers off, you can re-torque the HG. opening up the bottom end will be a waste of effort as you will see the bottom end will be in good shape. it is worth pulling the cam towers and re-sealing with permatex ultra grey or better yet, an anaerobic sealer, and replace the o-ring that is in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick James Posted May 22, 2012 Author Share Posted May 22, 2012 It may not be a gasket at all, if things are nice and tight and you have good compression. Could be a leaky PCV valve and/or hose. Could be a leaky oil pump, or camshaft seals. Last but not least, if it's an old motor and never been cleaned...there is a saying (I didn't invent it) that "if it's not leaking, it's probably out". cam seals and oil pump look good. Do the cam seal have a designated life span? I'll prob change them.. Re: oil pump, the engine was doing intermittent ticking, usually upon starting but would disappear somewhere down the road...hoping that changing the seals, filter and new oil will correct this....I read the pumps themselves rarely go bad?? Side note: It seems every two weeks I was putting in nearly a quart of oil ...because of this I slacked on doing a real oil change...prob not smart.. still strong engine finally getting attention. Thanks MF When I mentioned lower valve covers, I meant the seams at bottom of the valve cover itself...the cam towers which after wiping look as dry as the head at the block....maybe it's just cause I wiped em dry..heh. I'm glad you vote the grommets and the valve covers...the grommet and seals with the grommets do look like a replacement is needed. That said maybe I'll do the cam towers .. RE: you MF....I watch your vids, they help a lot...I feel like the person listening to public radio forever and never contributing financial support..oh wait.. I am that person.. Many thanks to you for doing those...I can send some PBRs? NPR wasn't on board with that method.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 I don't know of any particular life span on the various engine seals, but the rubber ones do get old, worn, or dry out with time. It doesn't hurt to replace them if you already have things apart. They aren't a big job like the headgasket, just a few minutes with a wrench. The are no different from hoses and belts in terms of being prone to age induced damage. If you're putting in a quart a week, it's coming out somewhere! I vote for cam seals, the cam seam, and valve covers and grommets as well. Wouldn't hurt to do the oil pump seals too, as long as you have the timing belts off. Parts stores have degreasers you can spray on and hose off, no scrubbing necessary. Some hose based carwashes may also have a "tires and engines" wash option, I've used the local one here quite a bit and it seems to do well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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