I am working on a FORD EDIS install on my 87 EA82T while running the stock ECU to control fuel injection. I got the engine to run with the EDIS with no MegaSquirt/Jolt yet to control it (thats coming next). I would like to completely remove the distributor, but I find that removing or disconnecting the distributor kills the engine. I understand that the CAS inside the distributor is also being used by the ECU to trigger fuel injection? Just looking to see if anybody found a clever way to get around this?

 

I may eventually use MS to control fuel, but no immediate plans to do this yet. I was hoping for a clean EDIS install with factory injecton. Thanks.

The ECU uses the optical pickup in the distributor to know when to fire the injectors - that is it's one and only crank posistion reference. With a stock ECU the distributor must stay.

 

GD

I found this, which my be of use:

http://msdignition.com/Products/Accessories/Tach_Adapters/8912_-_Tach_Adapter_for_DIS_2_and_DIS_4_Ignitions.aspx

 

I wonder if there is a way to use the VR sensor to trigger the fuel injection. I wish I had an O-scope to see what the signal looks like. I bet there is a way to replicate it to make the stock ECU happy by using EDIS as the trigger.

The signal from a VR is much too "dirty" to use where an optical signal was being used. Optical produces a perfect square wave. Also there are two pickups in the distributor - one with 4 large slots and one with a LOT of little slots. I havent counted them but it looks like it could be every two degrees so probably 180 of them. I doubt a stock EDIS wheel would have the right granularity for either of these inputs without reprograming or signal conditioning.

 

GD

Edited June 1, 201213 yr by GeneralDisorder

Nice work getting a 36-1 and sensor mounted and working. Not an easy task on the ea. This is really the key for you going forward.

 

Everything GD has brought up is spot on.

 

I would recommend going full megasquirt as it will remove many, many headaches whenever you have to interact with the stock management. Fuel control is the reason to bother with any of it.

 

Also, the Edis setup has been superseded with ms1 extra and on board coil control and having done both I would recommend the latter every time.

 

Sam

Still running EDIS with no MS and timing is near 5 BTDC instead of 10 and at any rpm. VR sensor is 9 teeth before the missing tooth. I am using an advance timing light with the knob set to zero. Anybody know why I get 5 instead of 10 degrees?

 

Also, engine sometimes misses and I can see this in the pulse from my timing light. Not bad and goes away at higher rpm. I decreased gap in all my plugs to see if it would go away, but it did not. It doesn't do this on the stock ignition. Is this normal? Could it be running this way becuase timing is fixed?

 

Planning on purchasing a MS3, but want the edis setup to run as good as I can get it first. So will MS3 connect direct to the coil pack (bypassing the EDIS module)

5* is pretty close, it's hard to get the alignment perfect. Once ms has control you can trim that out. Ms3 can do all you want to do and more. Ms1 can also, and save a bunch of loot on the way.

 

It should run stable on it's own. Few ideas on stuff to watch for.

 

The Edis sensors and wheels can be tricky re. gap and alignment. Have a scope to check your signal? Ms would give you a look at this.

 

The sensor bracket can have vibration issues

 

Electronic noise can also be a problem, are you using the condenser for the Edis coil? They are particularly noisy. Tidy, protected wiring helps with this also. The Edis wiring has the important wire bits shielded for noise.

 

 

 

Sam