Marck

Does the Subaru XT (all years) and Subaru RX/GL/DL Wagon/Sedan/3D_Coupe (all years) share the same front driver and passenger seat brackets? What about the XT6? What about EA81 cars like the hatch? Thanks

I can sure use the anti-sway bars (especially the rear one) from a 4wd XT6 if you want to get it and ship it to me. You must check that the rear one is 20mm in diameter. Name your price. Thanks.

Hmmm, do you need the dust shield from the WRX? I thought the caliper mounts to the hub, vice backing plate. In other words, the attachment point for the caliper bracket is part of the hub (1 piece of metal). So I was thinking that I have to keep the XT6 backing plate and modify that along with the caliper bracket to mate the two. Then I would have to figure out what rotor works best. Is this right? And let's not even get into the e-brake.

When you say center hole, are you talking about the rotor which slides onto the 56.1mm hub? Can the rear XT6 rotor be used with the wrx caliper once adapted?

I am sure someone on here already compared wrx rear brakes to xt6 rear brakes. Will the WRX rear caliper mount to the XT6 rear caliper bracket or will the WRX rear caliper with bracket mount to the XT6 backing plate? If not, how close is the mounting bolt spacing between the two?

I don't need an exhaustive list of all engines that will drop in. Just give me the best options. Consider which EJ engines are easiest to get and at a decent price, which engines are most reliable (non-interference are preferred), and which will drop in the easiest. I also heard that some EJ25s have head gasket issues- I need to know which years engines to stay away from.

I am very familiar with EA engines, but I am completely new to EJ engines. My brother blew the EJ22 motor (rod knock because it ate 3 quarts of oil in 3k miles) in his 99 impreza outback automatic. I am having trouble sourcing a replacement EJ22 motor. Which EJ engines will drop in with little to no modification required? Will any NA EJ22 or EJ25 drop in without modification or changing the ECU or wiring harnesses? What I have learned so far is that the difference between early years EJ22 and 97+ are that early models have HLA, are non-interference, and have dual port exhaust. 99+ have revised blocks and heads. Swapping y-pipes should not be a big deal, so will an early EJ22 swap in without changing anything else? Because my bro and I live in Cali, swapping in any engine older than the model year of the car may be a problem. I also heard that EJ25 may drop right in and work with the factory EJ22 ECU. Somebody please break down which NA EJ motors will be the easiest to swap in and which modifcations will be required to do so. 2nd part of this question- Where should I look for a motor? I called Japanese Engine Importers and none so far can get me a 99 EJ22, but they are willing to sell me a rebuilt long block for $2k. Thank you, Mark

Call Scion dealers and ask if they have an auto FRS that you can test drive. Scion dealers are willing to let anybody behind the wheel of one if they have it in stock. I test drove 1 manual FRS last week.

Still running EDIS with no MS and timing is near 5 BTDC instead of 10 and at any rpm. VR sensor is 9 teeth before the missing tooth. I am using an advance timing light with the knob set to zero. Anybody know why I get 5 instead of 10 degrees? Also, engine sometimes misses and I can see this in the pulse from my timing light. Not bad and goes away at higher rpm. I decreased gap in all my plugs to see if it would go away, but it did not. It doesn't do this on the stock ignition. Is this normal? Could it be running this way becuase timing is fixed? Planning on purchasing a MS3, but want the edis setup to run as good as I can get it first. So will MS3 connect direct to the coil pack (bypassing the EDIS module)

I found this, which my be of use: http://msdignition.com/Products/Accessories/Tach_Adapters/8912_-_Tach_Adapter_for_DIS_2_and_DIS_4_Ignitions.aspx I wonder if there is a way to use the VR sensor to trigger the fuel injection. I wish I had an O-scope to see what the signal looks like. I bet there is a way to replicate it to make the stock ECU happy by using EDIS as the trigger.

I am working on a FORD EDIS install on my 87 EA82T while running the stock ECU to control fuel injection. I got the engine to run with the EDIS with no MegaSquirt/Jolt yet to control it (thats coming next). I would like to completely remove the distributor, but I find that removing or disconnecting the distributor kills the engine. I understand that the CAS inside the distributor is also being used by the ECU to trigger fuel injection? Just looking to see if anybody found a clever way to get around this? I may eventually use MS to control fuel, but no immediate plans to do this yet. I was hoping for a clean EDIS install with factory injecton. Thanks.

Thanks Numbchux, that is the answer I was looking for. I didn't think the bushings would be the same since the XT6 inner arm end is way larger, but I was just comparing the arm and not the bushing it self. I have yet to pull the EA82 arm out to measure the outside diameter of the bushing. I can't afford any down time, so I will order the EA82 SuperPro inner arm bushing and have it ready to swap into the XT6 arm when i do the 5 lug swap. If it doesn't work out, I may be able to put the stock XT6 arm bushings back in (if I don't destroy them when taking them out). If I have to use the XT6 arm bushing, I rather have a custom spacer made to press into the bushing than to enlarge holes in the crossmember. I want the ability to go back if I have to. Bushings take a while to get since most are coming from australia, but I will post the outcome on this thread.

Anyboy know if SuperPro makes a bushing for the inner bushing of the XT6 control arm?

I have control arms from an AWD XT6, and I have never read anything on this board about issues with mounting them onto the crossmember unless you got 2WD control arms. Anybody else found that the control arms will not mount without modification to the crossmember? I know SuperPro makes bushings. Do they make them for the XT6 control arm? The XT6 has a larger bushing than the EA82. I don't think an EA82 or EA81 bushing will fit in the XT6 arm.

I know about the ball joint, I am concerned about the other end. Thanks.

I am almost finished gathering parts needed to do the 5 lug swap on my car and I have a question. The inner bushing on the front lower control arm of the XT6 is bigger than the EA82T one. The inside diameter of the XT6's bushing is 12mm. I haven't measured the EA82T's, but will it be identical? I am worried that the XT6 Arm bushing inside bolt hole will not be the same as the EA82T crossmember's hole. Anybody have any reports of compatibility problems between XT6 arms and EA82T crossmembers? Also, are there SuperPro (or any urethane bushings) for the inner bushing of the XT6 control arm?

It doesn't do it when it is cold. It is pretty random. It started to do it again today in the afternoon, this time I paid attention to the odometer, it too looked like it is effected (looked like it was spinning faster than what it should have). I tried hitting the top of the cluster with my hand, but it made no change. I think I'll pull the cable and inspect it first. From what I understand: If the cable has oil in it, then the cable and seal needs to be replaced. If the problem persists after replacing the cable assembly, then the speedo head needs to be replaced too. If the cable doesn't have oil, then I need to relube it and reinsert. If problem persists, then I may need to repair or replace the speedometer head. How hard is it to remove the cable?

The problem is intermittant and when it is broke, it doesn't read pegged all the time. The needle starts at zero @ 0 mph and increases at a rate that is about triple that of the actual speed. So when I get going at about 45mph or faster, the needle is pegged. An actual speed of 25 mph may show ~70 mph on the speedometer. So does this sound like a speedo problem or a speed cable problem or is there a speed sensor too? Excuse my ignorance with how speedometers work and the parts of the system, but what does the speedometer cable look like and where would I find it on my car (I assume it connects to the tranny some wheres).

Thats good to know. I'll give it a try next time it happens, but I am looking for a permanent fix .

The other day, I was driving my sube and I look down at my speedometer and see that the needle is pegged at 130mph . Everyone else on the road was driving about the same speed, so I know I wasn't pushing more than 45mph. What is the common problem or fix for when the speedometer reports 3 or 4 times the actual speed? The speedometer does this intermittantly and it works more often than not. When it acts crazy, you have to shut down the engine and restart and maybe if your lucky it will work like normal again. My sube is a 87 EA82T Full Time 4WD sube. BTW, it has the analog cluster. Thanks, Mark

Great, thank you. I want to be safe and use what we know already works. I'll get on ordering these up.

What are the differences of the rear dampers from a 2000-2004 legacy vs a 2005+ legacy GT? Which ones will work best on the rear of a RX 3 door Coupe? My plans are to install Tein Flex rear dampers for a legacy onto my 3 door coupe car, but there are two sets that exist- 00-04 and 05+. Would appreciate the help. Thanks.

Has anyone been able to mount the Yakima 1A Raingutter Control Towers onto a 87-89 3 door Coupe? From everything I read (at retailers, Yakima's Website, and of course this forum), the 1A Raingutter Towers should fit this application. I found that the raingutters on my 3 door coupe are too wide to get the outer clamp over the raingutter. I think that the 3 door coupes may have wider raingutters than the wagons. If the 1A raingutters will not work, then are the Yakima Q-Towers the way to go? Which special fitment kit will I need to make the Q-towers fit? thanks, -Mark

Thank you. I don't think there is nothing wrong with going cheap with a mbc as long as you pay attention to the boost gauge. I don't expect the mbc to work flawlessly and definately not accurate or super precise, but it should be somewhat precise in that it reaches near the same max boost every time I floor it. I don't see the point of replacing a $20 mbc I made myself with a $100 mbc if it won't solve my problem that I have described in my first post. Now if my mbc is causing my problem then I will replace it with a well made high qualitly unit, but I am not going to throw more money at it only to find out that it doesn't fix my problem. The point is to make the car as fast and fun to drive as possible without sacrifing too much in reliability, longevity, and without spending a fortune on it. If I wanted to go expensive, I would have saved the few thousand I put into this car and put it down as the down payment to an STI or drop an EJ engine into the car for the ultimate subaru sleeper. As for critizing one's work or car without even seeing it is just mean and it hurts. Makes me almost want to leave the board that I have been with for 5 yrs. This shouldn't be the message we are sending out. I draw my automotive knowledge from three main sources. 1. is the one year of automotive technology that I took 6 years ago in high school. 2. is this message board. And 3. is my factory service manuals. I have learned way more about cars from the threads I have read and posted on this board over the past five years more so than I can learn from 1 year of classes or any auto manual. So lets be open minded and kind to one another on the message board. It is not nice to make rude remarks by the text one types. As for the expression "a bunch of other modifications" was me being too lazy to list out all the mods on the car when I wasn't sure if it was needed. As for, "black valve looking thingy," I thought I described it well when I described where each hose coming out of it was going to. I didn't know the name of the part and it looks like some kind of pressure controlled black valve. When I wrote the expression "black valve looking thingy" I was going for comedy, not the writer's engineering incompetency. Back on topic, I have found that you can control the boost level with the gas pedal and still rev the engine to where you need it to shift. So you can set your mbc as high as you want and then just be causious to your right foot. If you feel the need to smoke somebody, smash the pedal all the way down so that you are running your max boost setting. If you want to take it easy on the old car, then just press the gas lightly until till you reach near stock 7psi boost and hold it there and the revs will still increase until your shift point. Heck you can even go really easy on the car and not boost the car at all and still drive it. This may sound trivial, but I mention it because I think too many of us subaru owners have gotten to use too the lead foot. Lets face it our cars, especially in stock form, are very weak in power. On a non-modified engine (turbo or NA) slamming the gas pedal to the the floor was the only way to drive and you would still be the slowest thing driving up small inclines.

So everybody is pretty much on agreement that I should replace my homebuilt home depot mbc with one of higher quality. Besides mine being made of brass, what makes those $100 dollar mbc so much better? How does this part destroy piston rings and head gaskets as long as it never lets boost reach over what it is set for? Its the boost setting that will increase piston ring wear or if boost is set to high it may kill a headgasket. To skip and others: Sorry for not sounding technical in that last post, but the truth of the matter is that I did build this car up from a stock platform. I threw the "backpressure opening the wg info" out there to see what kind of response I get. But this car does have a 3" mandrel bent divorced wastegate downpipe made by perrin and moddified to fit my car by a local welding shop. There is a 2.5" cat right after that with 2.5" piping leading to a 3" muffler. So there should be little back pressure. I question everything. I especially question the BPV when it comes from ebay and have yet to test if it works. I know the mbc is working or at least most of the time if it is the culprit. I guess I should list the mods so you guys can help me better. If we still had signatures it would be listed in that and then I can just say the car is the one listed in the signature. It gets tiring to repost the mods list everytime I post a question. My subaru came stock as a GL 3d coupe with all RX equipment minus the aero body kit. Some of the mods are listed below (in random order): All Metal Two Row CSF Radiator MSD Blaster High Vibration Ignition Coil Magnecor 8.5 mm wires NGK iridium spark plugs BPR7EIX gapped to 0.050 in. Peugeot Rims with 225/50R15 High Volume Oil Pump by Toga Ported and performance valve grind on cylinder heads Regrind Cams by Deltacams (260 duration, .386 inch lift) XT Spider Intake from 87.5+ XT Turbo w/ EGR RC Engineering Cleaned, Calibrated, & Flow Tested Fuel Injectors. Custom Header by TechWorks Engineering (TWE) w/ HPC Hypercoat Extreme Coating Lighten XT6 flywheel from 19lbs to 15~17 lbs XT6 6 puck sprung (10700) clutch by Clutchnet XT6 50% stronger pressure plate by Clutchnet K&N Cone Style High Flow Air Filter with custom pipe Red Top Optima 800 CCA Autometer A/F Mixture and Boost Gauge RHB5 VF11 Turbo from a 91 Legacy modified WRX 3.0” Perrin catless downpipe w/ Jet Hot Coating High Flow Cat, Muffler, 2.5 inch exhaust pipe Heated 4-wire Bosch O2 Sensor Shorter Weighted Shift Knob KYB GR2 rear dampers with stiffer Eibach springs (8” L, 2.5” ID, 225 lbs/in spring rate) WRX Intercooler w/ BPV & Hood Scoop Man. Boost Controller set near 12~13 PSI One correction to above, I pulled the deltacams out to pass a smog test and have yet to put them back in. So I am currently running stock cams.