Marck

I would use aviation sealant on the waterpump with the gasket. The oil pump just needs a coat of oil on the o-rings. Good luck.

I would take one of these and would pay $500 or so dollars for it. I would also prefer it to come with a hood scoop.

Thanks for the replies, but I was able to fix my problem by jacking the engine up at the oil pan and scooting the engine-tranny assembly to the right a little.

My TWE header is rubbing just slightly against the crossmember. I was thinking of fixing this by placing a square 1/4 inch spacer with a hole for the engine mount stud between the two engine mounts and the crossmember. I plan to leave the transmission mounts alone. This will tilt the front end of the engine a quarter of an inch up which will allow room between the crossmember and the header. What do you think...good idea or bad idea? Possible problems?

When removing my distributor, I used a breaker bar with a 22mm socket to turn the crankshaft until cylinder number 1 was at 0 degrees TDC. After I removed and reinstalled the distributor I went to start the car. It didn't start lucky me, but made a loud clunk noies. After spending some time figuring out what happened, I discovered that I had left the breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt. It swang around, caught on the oil pressure sender, knocked it loose (partially broken), and took off the crankshaft bolt and pulley. I did this two more times until the oil pressure sender completely snapped off allowing about half of the oil to drain onto the ground.

Exactly, the first bend (at the turbo) needs to be larger. Unfornuately, the perrin has a wastegate diverter tube which makes it harder to modify. I did consider cutting the pipe between the first and second bends (where the pipe goes down under the car) and lengthening it with more pipe, but after careful measurement I found that it still will hit the tranny crossmember. If only that first bend was larger. Update: After looking at it again, I don't see why I can't cut it at the turbo flange, angle it down, and reweld it. That actually might work. Thanks rallyrus. I don't know how to weld, but I wonder how much a welding shop will charge to do this. Keep the suggestions coming.

I have the TWE Header and want to swap my VF7 stock turbo for the VF11. I bought a Perrin downpipe (the best downpipe design in my opinion) because I thought WRX downpipes will fit. My problem is that the Perrin pipe hits the transmission crossmember which keeps it from bolting flushly to the turbo outlet. I tried cutting the lip of the tranny crossmember, but it still is in the way. The TWE Header moved the turbo back and up which makes it much harder to get the downpipe to install. Has anybody have had trouble trying to install an aftermarket WRX downpipe using the TWE Header? I found that some had success with the megan racing downpipe, but they used their old crossover pipe w/ slight modification. If I could find a 2.5 inch WRX downpipe with a bellmouth or wastegate diverter, that might allow it to fit. And I really want a small wastegate diverter like the perrin or a bellmouth design. Do you think if I called TWE, maybe they will make me a 2.5 inch downpipe with a TDO4/VF11 flange and with a bellmouth or wastegate diverter? Has anybody had succes with one of the aftermarket WRX downpipes and the TWE Header?

I sent mine.

YES, every EA82 head I have ever seen has those holes. They are supposed to be there.

Are you serious? I tried searching and couldn't find it. Can somebody confirm this or post the link. There is no way for me to check this out because my mechanic has my old intake manifold and my car w/ spider. If somebody can confirm that two of the wires needs to be swapped, then I would be most grateful.

I don't think you understand my question. The original TPS from my original manifold is on the spider right now. It fits perfect on the spider without the need of any adapter plates. My problem is pure electrical. I believe the TPS is working fine now that the original is in, but the computer will not read the signal from the TPS correctly. And yes the TPS and throttle valve have been adjusted correctly by my mechanic.

Wow, no replies yet. I think I stumped all board members on this one. No one had similar problems with their TPS? Bump.

My subaru has been at the mechanic for about a month now. We are trying to figure out a problem with the throttle position sensor (TPS). I gave him the car to readjust the throttle valve (that my darn neighbor messed with) and the TPS. I know the FSM says to never adjust the throttle valve screw, but too late for that now. Adjusting the throttle valve will also throw off the TPS, so they both have to be adjusted. Here is some history: My subaru is a 1987 GL 3 door coupe EA82T. I swaped intakes from original to a spider intake man from a XT Turbo. The connectors on the intake wiring harness were the same as the connectors to the car by the battery. So I assumed I didn't need to rewire anything. Fuel injectors along with many sensors are the same. The exception is the TPS. The one from the spider is a 4 pin one like what came on the SPFI while the one on my original manifold is of the standard 3 pin (MPFI Turbo) type. Now the throttle sensor is causing the car to have its idle jump around and it also may be the new reason it is failing smog. The mechanic found that the TPS from the spider is not always working properly with my computer. I had him swap on the TPS from the old man and now the TPS is working (better) but the computer is not reading it right or something. The computer is not spitting out any codes. My mechanic has checked all wiring going from TPS to computer. He has been really frustrated with it as well as myself. I want my baby back so that I can drive it again. My mechanic has a guy in LA who is sending him a used computer and TPS to swap into the sube to see if anything changes. I don't think my computer is busted? Anyway I think he said the problem is that the TPS is not telling the computer when the throttle valve is closed. He tried readjusting the throttle valve and TPS many times and he still can't get the darn thing figured out. I even gave him my old intake man and all 5 of my FSM to help him out. He has gone through schematics and found everthing is wired correctly. I am at a total loss. What do you think the problem is? What should I tell the mechanic to check next?

Those aren't wheel covers. I don't seem why you couldn't find those rims in any junkyard. You just have to have a little luck. They came on my subaru, so I don't think there super rare or anything. Sorry, mine are not for sale. I too would like to know how to get an orginal master key, as all of mine are copies of copies. What does an original key look like.

Check to see if the smoke is coming from the bottom of the downpipe or the cat in the downpipe. I know mine smokes from there.

Alright, thanks for the replies. When the head lights are on and the turn signal is on, the A/F Mix gauge goes back and forth in sync with the turn signal. It kind of reminds me of Christmas . Although it is not even close to the accuracy of a wideband, I think it is well enough to keep me from leaning out when I increase the boost. Widebands are way to expensive for my blood.

I am running it off the factory O2. So this is normal then. So is the engine actually running leaner as the gauge suggest when the head lights are on or is just error due to reading off the factory O2. Should turning on the head lights cause the idle to drop a little? Do you think adjusting the screw on the fast idle solenoid will do anything?

I have one of those Autometer A/F Mixture gauges. When I turn on the head lights, the gauge shows that the mixture runs leaner by about three more bars. Then if I turn on my fog lights, it will run a little leaner. I don't think the gauge is reading wrong because I also notice that the idle speed drops a little too. Do you think my gauge is faulty or is there something I can do or adjust to fix this?

Wow, so the legacy struts fit. What year model legacy and what year model EA82 car?

I will be looking to buy some rear struts for my 3 door coupe probably by the end of winter. I would like new RX stock replacements or stiffer. If it is $300 for a set of 4, then I am okay with 2 rear struts for $150. My problem right now is trying to sort out my rough idling problem and then more engine mods to come before I start working on the suspension.

What are you going to do about the knock sensor and that PCV pipe coming out the rear of the block? I think they only came in turbo blocks. I think what you really want is a turbo block with carbed pistons.

Anybody know the torque specs on the front bumper mounting bolts for an EA82(T) car? I couldn't find them when looking through my FSM.

Here ya go: http://www.uniquemotorsports.com/products/products.htm click on 'ihi turbo flanges'

Definantly use a thread chaser or tap to fix the thread. Also, put a lot of heavy axle grease oin the chaser or tap so that it will catch most of the shavings. Next time you install a spark plug, be sure to stick the plug into a 5/16 piece of hose and then use the hose to thread the spark plug in until it is hand tight. This will keep from stripping out those threads.

I gapped the spark plugs down to 0.043 and it runs a lot smoother now. That was one of the main problems why it would chug so bad. Now it idles better, but sometimes the idle will still fluctuate a little. Another thing, The catalytic converts smoke like crazy! They don't smoke when I have the car at idle, but after I drive it down the street and back, they smoke so bad that it will come through the shifter hole and dash board. Both the downpipe and second cat smoke bad. I need to know why? Could the cats be clogged? Both cats are original. Also, the power band of the car seems best at 4000+ rpm. It used to have plenty of power from 3000 to 5000rpm. Is this a result of the deltacams? If so, I think I like my old cams better. The turbo light comes on at 2000rpm, but according to my boost gauge my turbo doesn't build up pressure past 3 PSI.