Marck

Thanks for the tip. I'll squirt motor oil instead and I'll turn the motor daily. It will be sitting for 3 weeks until I have the time to reassemble .

Thanks for the quick replies. I called the machine shop that I sent my heads to to also see what he recommended and he gave me similar advice. He said to squirt some WD-40 in the cylinder and to scrub the rust with a scotch bright pad. That removed most of it and made the cylinder smooth again. He said what ever rust is left will go away when I run the car again. I was really worried every one was going to tell me to tear the block apart and have the cylinders honed. I learned a few lessons from this: 1. Squirt oil or WD-40 in exposed cylinders daily especially if engine is kept outside. 2. Honing is only required when installing new piston rings because the cross hatch that is caused by honing is only needed to get oil to the top of the clyinder to help break in the rings. Once rings are broken in, the cross hatch is no longer needed and usually wears away later down the road.

I have been trying to wipe the remaining off using MMO and a rag and it won't come off. It kind of leaves a orange looking rust stain on the rag. I think it may be rust. I have no garage, so the engine sits outside with a tarp keeping it covered. I can't believe rust comes and spreads that quickly. It looks bad and it is almost all the way around the cylinder. It is rough even though wipe it may have smoothened it out a bit. If it is rust, is it okay to rebuild the engine in this condition? Will the piston moving up and down wear this stuff away? Is this commone with engine teardowns?

First time resealing my engine. I removed the cylinder heads last weekend, then cleaned the head gasket area on the block. The cylinder walls were already very clean and could still see a crosshatch. I am in college so I could only work the weekends on this engine. So I oiled the two exposed cylinder walls with some MMO and stick a clean rag in each cylinder to keep dirt out. I come back to the engine today to continue working on my engine, and I am shocked to find that one of the clean cylinders got messed up. There is black stuff growing on the cylinder wall. I don't know what it is or how to remove it. Is it corrosion or a biofilm? Now what do I do? How can I clean it off? Am I going to have take the block to a machine shop? I already poured a lot of money into this engine and I don't know what to do. The block was a low mileage engine (like 60 or 70 thousand miles). And I wasn't planning on rebuilding it. I was just going to replace a cracked head. BTW, the other cylinder was spotlist just like I left it. I already stuck some more MMO on the black stuff and even some carb cleaner and it seems that the top layer of this sh*t wiped off onto my rag. But how do I remove the rest? I need suggestions immediately please. I am freaking out here!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Right. But it is easy to get #1 Piston at compression stroke confused with #1 piston at exhaust stroke.

To find TDC on number 1: Set flywheel to 0 degrees mark. Take off distributor cap. If the arrow on the rotor is pointing to the number 1 spark plug wire plug on distributor cap then it is on TDC for number 1 cylinder. If not, then turn flywheel a full 360 degrees until it reaches the zero mark again. The rotor should now be pointing to the number 1 cylinder spark plug wire plug. Don't forget to put the distributor cap back on.

It is fahrenheit. I talked with the people at HPC. They said that they had a guy doing wrx headers for a sandrail and he never had any problems. Also, the coating has a life time guaranttee. If the coating melts off, then they will recoat it for me or they said I can add the additional price and get it extreme coated which can go beyond 2000 degrees. So I am not worried.

I got my TWE header HPC coated. It is only good to I think 1300 degrees, but that was all I could afford. I chose the polished aluminum color.

My 87 GL 3 door has a VF48...., but I am not sure if it is orignal or not.

Oh, you are talking about the mesa. Ya I been there quite a few times, but there is only like one yard there that had 4 or 5 subes in a row (two of them being XTs). There is another yard there with a turbo wagon and there are like two more yards there that have like 1 subaru each.

I live in Nipomo. I think Blackroad is the name of that yard. They used to have a lot of subarus, but then the last time I went there they crushed all of them but maybe like 3. They didn't have any legacys before, so those must be new. They used to have like three or four XTs, one having a spider intake. They only kept one of them. Talk to the big guy there. He is really nice and gives good deals. The woman working there likes to rip people off.

Lets say that there was a little hole in the driver's side frame rail cover (passenger side is good). And from that hole many rust chips came flying out. How safe is that? How long do you think the car will last before it is really unsafe? Can a body shop fix this by removing the welded frame rail cover and replace that part of the frame rail by welding in new metal?

what are door edge protectors? Can you post a pic? Are you refering to the stripe of black rubber that goes around the side of the car?

I went to Napa today to see what they had. It looks like the closest match is NAPA part # 675-1570. I had to special order them since they didn't have any in stock. They have the same overall length as the other one, so I don't know if they will perform any different. Anybody that used the motormite or Napa speed bleeders please reply. I would like to know if you had any trouble getting them to close.

Hello, I bought some Speed Bleeders by Motormite at Pep Boys today. Part number is 12706. They are advertised as 33mm in overall length with a thread size of M10x1.0. I tried to install one of them, and no matter how hard I tighten it down, it still lets brake fluid out when I push the brake pedal. What is going on here? When comparing the speed bleeder with the standard stock bleeder I notice a big difference in thread length. Here are the dimensions: Stock bleeder: overall measured length = 33mm measured thread length = 13mm length of bleeder after threaded portion (caliper side) = 7mm Motormite Speed Bleeder: overall measured length = 32mm measured thread length = 9mm length of bleeder after threaded portion (caliper side) = 7mm Motormite speed bleeders 12706 are supposed to fit according to the pep boy's parts manual and people on this message board (see other speed bleeder posts). BTW, this thread pertains to the FRONT disk brakes for the EA82(T) cars. Could the turbo cars have different calipers causing them to have longer bleeders than the NA cars?

Oh ****, I was going to send you a PM today about ordering the rear RX struts for me from Japan. Are you absolutely sure there are no RX struts for the rear left? Now what? My rear struts are so bad, that my rear wheels rub on hard fast cornering and when going fast on dips.

You don't want to use header wrap and less you plan on replacing the header over and over again. If you want the same advantages without having your header pipe suffer from heat fatigue or cracks, then you need to get it performance coated.

Tomorrow is not my birthday and now I won't have time to fix my sube for another 2 weeks.

I called Mike Melton again today, and got the tracking number . My header is scheduled to arrive on the 21st :banana:. Its already in California. BTW, folgers didn't even send it out until the 14th. So it has been sitting at folgers for I think 11 days.

I still haven't received my header nor a tracking number. WJM, can you see if you can get me a tracking number or at least verify that it has been sent.

This is amazing, and no one believed. Can the header with an increase in boost make that much power? because an intercooler is not going to help on a dyno. I guess that says something about how crappy Subaru designed our stock crossover pipes. Are your cams stock?

I have a question to add to this thread! Are the XT6 FRONT calipers the same as those on a EA82(T) car?

I called Mike on the 4th of January and gave him my credit card # to pay for shipping. He said he would try to get it shipped out later that day and would send me the tracking number via email. One week later, I still have not received the tracking number, so I called him up and he said he forgot to send me the tracking number. I gave him my email again and I was expecting to receive the tracking number shortly. Well it is now Friday, and I still haven't received the tracking number, so I called him again and left a message on his machine. WJM, can you figure out what is going on with Folgers? Has he really sent my header? And can I get a tracking number please.

same here

If I were to cut the MAF signal voltage at the point or just below the point that the computer will accept as the max signal voltage without appling fuel cut, then the computer will tell the fuel pump to send the constant amount of fuel that is required for that amount of air. If you increase the boost very high (which means that more air is going through the air flow meter), the computer will not compensate by adding more fuel because it doesn't know that too much air is entering the engine. So, yes it will start to run lean. Does this make sense.