Marck

Mine cracked and I will hopefully get a new header from TWE or WJM. My car won't even pass smog because of it, so its sitting. Too much exhaust is leaking out of the crack causing the O2 sensor to give the computer a false reading, so then the computer runs the engine to rich, which means more HydroCarbons (HC) coming out the exhaust causing it to fail smog by a lot. They cost about $260 brand new from the dealer. But I recommend trying to get on the TWE deal or have somebody build you a better designed header because the Subaru one is very restrictive. We will be taking a new count of soon.

sweet, its good to here that either way we are going to get some headers and downpipes.

Thanks. I am sorry you can't afford it right now, but some of us on the board are still looking forward to this. We may need to take a new count for headers and downpipes, but lets first see if TWE still wants to build these for us.

Hey WJM, has TWE gotten back to you?

I am interested to get some ARP studs. What do they cost?

Is it leaking from the threads? If so, then try wrapping some teflon tape around the threads or something else that would seal it.

I am only wiring one fan and keeping the mechanical fan installed. Not sure what I would do if I wanted to wire up a second. I think I would just wire it in parallel with the other fan. I don't know if that would shorten the life of the relay? Subaru didn't put in two relays for the fan. The one with the black connector is for the A/C and the one with the brown connector is for the radiator fan.

Okay, I shorted the LW colored wire at the Radiator Fan Relay and the LR colored wire coming from the fan and it works . This is a good way to test your main fan relay. Now instead of shorting these two wires, I will place a switch in between them and mount the switch somewhere in the dash. To minimize the amount of wire used do this: I also noticed that the LR colored wire that goes to the fan comes from the 15 Amp Fuse (Fuse #15) in the Fuse Box in the dash. So you can splice in there. And then run another wire from the LW colored wire coming from the Radiator Fan Relay. Hook those two wires to a switch and your set. I also found the 'Pressure (main fan control) Switch', although you don't need to know where it is to wire this up. The 'Pressure (main fan control) Switch' is attached to the side of the Receiver Drier (canister thing with the sight glass). Do I get the seal of approval? I can't believe no one else thought of this. Why buy a relay and wire it up when Subaru already gave you one to work with.

MilesFox : Those aren't the wires I am talking about. The way I am doing it uses the Fan relay. The thermosensor doesn't use the relay, but the AC Pressure switch does. That is the difference.

Ok, after reading this post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=11776&page=1&pp=10&highlight=gauge+fan and other fan wiring threads over and over again, I think I figured out how I want to wire my electric radiator fan. People with 1987 FSMs please look at page 69 of section 4-7. There you will see the wiring diagram for the A/C for the 1987 EA82(T) cars (I think this will apply to all other years of EA82(T) with A/C, but I am not sure). Now study the section of the diagram with the radiator fan motor, thermoswitch, radiator fan relay, and Pressure (main fan control) switch. My plan is to is to place a switch between the LR and LW wires on the Pressure (main fan control) switch (F18). Doing it this way will short that switch which is used to turn the fan on through a relay when the A/C is on. This method will take use of the factory Radiator Fan Relay (that is sitting behind the passenger side strut tower) to turn on the fan. So I have the safety and durability of using a relay without having to go through the trouble of rewiring the whole deal and buying a relay. Will this work? Do you see any problems with this method? This will allow you to turn on the radiator fan manually with the switch, allow the fan to still turn on when the A/C is on, and it will turn on fan (using the thermoswitch in the radiator) when the engine is running too hot (don't rely on that ). I am going to hunt for the 'Pressure (main fan control) Switch' tomorrow. I have a pretty good idea of where it is at from looking at pages 7-11 in section 6-3. It is connector F18. The only way I know how to identify it is by the colors of the wires that are coming out of it. It has a LB colored wire, a RW colored wire, LR colored wire, and a LW colored wire. Remember, we want to short (or place a switch between) the LR and LW colored wires to make the fan turn on. LB = Blue with Black stripe RW = Red with White stripe LR = Blue with Red Stripe LW = Blue with White Stripe UPDATE: Now that I think of it, the same effect is achieved by shorting the LW colored wire at the Radiator Fan Relay and the LR colored wire coming from the fan. That way, I don't have to hunt for the 'Pressure (main fan control) Switch'. (I am learning a lot ) I can scan the A/C wiring diagram that I am refering to, but I am not able to post it on USMB. So if some one wants to help me out by posting the diagram for me then let me know and I can then send you the scanned image of the diagram via email.

right, just replace the belts and your good to go. Both belts must be replaced and it is a good idea to replace the cam seals, front crank seal, oil pump seals or oil pump, and water pump. Check your tensioners and idlers.

I started a thread about this awhile ago. Here it is: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=9493&highlight=marck

I don't think he is talking about our Mesa . Although there are a few junkyards on the Mesa.

FYI, my car does not overheat with the OEM thermostat. It runs at 3/4 (maybe a little less) on the cooling guage. With a 180 degree stat, my car stays at halfway on the guage. After I reseal my engine, I plan to increase the boost, so I will replace the 180 with a 170. Because Subaru heads crack so easily, I consider hot to be anything above the half way point on the temp guage. (It would have been nice if Subaru put a few numbers on the temp guage.) My cooling system is as perfect as could be. It has a new OEM waterpump, backflushed the cooling system, double row radiator, all new cooling hoses, etc. Now why do you suppose it runs a little warmer than most...hmmm....I wonder why....now why do you think it runs too warm with the stock thermostat.....hmmm....thinking................thinking.......................... oh I got it...maybe because it has something called a TURBO!!!!!!!!!!! Turbos run hot by nature and will increase the heat of the oil and the engine. Most people on this board with a EA82T/EA81T run an Oil Cooler and a 180 degree thermostat to reduce the temperature. Do you call oil coolers a BANDAID? Then why did EA81T come stock with an oil cooler? My car does pretty good with a 180 degree thermostat with no oil cooler and running stock everthing. Most people here try to push their EA82T to the limit and to do that, you have to do cooling system mods like double row radiators, oil coolers, and even lower temp thermostats. Otherwise, expect a cracked head. Now what is this about??? I run 50/50 in CA. Everybody here does. If not 50/50, then what? All shops and dealerships will tell you to run nothing less than 50/50 and nothing more than 30% water and 70% antifreeze no matter where you live. 50/50 sounds pretty good for 70 degree temperatures.

i'm interested! How much?

I am still interested. I have been waiting a year now for somebody to build me a header.

The problem with the OEM thermostats is that they are only available with the 195 degree temp. My turbo car runs to hot to use the OEM and it has a double row radiator. I use the 180 degree stant brand, and will be switching to the 170 degree after I reseal my motor.

So if I remove it, will the windshield leak?

How do you remove the lower right corner joint on the windshield (that black plastic thing that borders the windshield)? I need to remove it so that I can take care of a small patch of bad rust. I tried to pull it, but I am worried about breaking it. Is it just glued in? If I end up breaking it, is it expensive to replace? BTW, this is for my 87 coupe.

Here is a link to download jus the codec itself: http://download.divx.com/divx/DivX511.exe Never download GAIN or GATOR!!!!!!!!!!!!

The first 'tiny' resistor you speak of is not a resistor at all. It is a zener diode. The first resistor (second component) looks pretty faded on my clock too. The first band looks like it is purple. The second band looks green. Not sure about the third band. And the last band looks brown but that can't be right. There is a number printed on the circuit board under this resistor: R750 2W. Now making an educated guess I think this number may mean 750 ohms and 2 watts. A purple green brown resistor rated at 2 Watts is what you are looking for. I am not sure what the tolerance should be, but that shouldn't matter too much. The second resistor (third component) is a orange black black silver resistor. So that should be a 30 ohm resistor with 10% tolerance. It is also rated for 2 watts.

Here is an aftermarket two core with brass tanks that was made for the EA82(T): http://www.radiatorconnection.com/auto/HiPerformance/Subaru/sc1.htm Part number: CR-1269 I think they have a lifetime warranty. They are made by CSF: http://www.csfimports.com/

So will bypassing the coolant line increase emissions significantly? I want to know if I can get away with that in CA. A little off topic but... The EGR routes warm exhaust gas back into the intake. So will that give a greater chance of detonation? I remember somebody on the board saying that the EGR will help decrease the chance of detonation on a turbo car. Here is a quote from skip: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=9399&highlight=spider

Here is what I got from a google search on icing and throttle bodies: http://www.ellison-fluid-systems.com/faqs/carburetor_heat.htm So it seems that icing is caused by the evaporation of fuel. For a second there, I thought icing was only possible if you live in cold climate .

Why does coolant run through the throttle body on a EA82T? What is its purpose? I am just trying to understand my sube a little better.