Marck

After looking at the FSM, I think the ground that we want to tap into is the one labeled "B". I think that stands for Black. Also, you need to verify what the max signal voltage that the computer can take without appling the fuel cut is. I assumed it was 5V. I am still not sure what the resistance values should be, but the way the circuit is connected is correct.

Thought I would also mention that you need to make you hook the zener diode exactly as it is shown. If you reverse it, then the signal voltage will get clipped at the Von which is around 0.6-0.7V. And it will not let the signal voltage decrease pass -4.3V (but we don't care about this because the signal should only range from 0 to somewhere around 5V) If the signal gets clipped at around 0.6 or 0.7V, then the engine will run lean!! So make sure you got a A/F Mixture Gauge or DVM on the O2 sensor to make sure you don't blow up your engine.

I was thinking about a design for a FCD when looking over the wave-shaping ciruits section in my microelectronic circuit design text book and I came up with pretty much the same design as the one shown here: http://www.kipanderson.net/rs/fce.htm This circuit here is what is known as a clipping circuit. It will keep the signal from increasing pass the zener voltage (Vz) of the zener diode which in this case is 4.3V. And it will keep the voltage from decreasing pass the negative of the turn on voltage (Von) of the zener diode which we will assume to be 0.7V (we don't care about this because the signal voltage should never reach below 0V). In other words, the signal will not be modified when its voltage is 4.3V (zener voltage) or less. When the signal voltage reaches the 4.3V (zener voltage), then it will stay constant at that voltage until the signal falls below that voltage. I hope you people understand this. I just want to let ya all know that this circuit should work for our cars (but don't blame me if something goes wrong). I feel confident to test this on my own car when it is ready. Right now, it doesn't even boost because of the stupid cracked crossover pipe. I am still waiting for my TWE Header . One last thing, the 50 ohm pot is to adjust the voltage that the signal gets clipped at. So instead of it getting clipped at the zener voltage (which was 4.3V for this example) we can vary the pot until the clipping voltage is just below the signal voltage that the computer will accept without turning on the fuel cut. Our MAF signal wire is white instead of the gry/red shown in the web page diagram. Our ground wire that we want to use is either the black one or the brown one. Not sure which one to use there.

No problem. Actually I'm glad you had me doubting myself so I could force myself to check the FSM instead of relying on my memory.

According to my 1987 FSM, the right front and the right rear speakers share one wire. Also, the left front and the left rear speakers share one wire. So if you rewire both the front right and the front left speakers, then neither of the speakers will share grounds.

I think you only need to rewire the two front speakers or the two rear speakers, but you don't have to rewire all 4 on a EA82 car. Is that correct?

According to UPS tracking, folgers has received it! Let me know how much shipping will be and I'll send ya paypal. Please make sure that folgers ships these pipes as soon as possible (I don't want folgers to hold onto these pipes too long like they did with the check ). Do you have my shipping address?

I have an 87 GL 3 door turbo 4WD coupe that came equiped with rally suspension from the factory (ie. it has RX shocks). After 160,500 miles, my rear struts are shot. I loved the way the car handled and the stiffness of the suspension before the rear struts bit the dust. I need some help in locating new struts that perform as well and as stiff or better. I could just look for a pair of used rear RX shocks, but I rather try to find some new and better aftermarket replacements. I know almost nothing about this topic so please give me your opinions and educate me on the subject. So far I looked at these threads: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16296&highlight=coilover http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2063&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 And found the KYB GR-2 to be a good option. Are they as good as the RX struts? I have also been thinking of making them into adjustable coilovers like in the XT6.net thread. Are the old RX coils or springs okay to reuse with the new struts?

I got the brakes done!! I took the calipers off and had my brother-n-law hold the caliper against a bench with the piston facing the sky. Then I just used my 3/8 rachet with the cube. It was that simple and I didn't need to use the air impact wrench. The trick was just to remove the calipers from the car completely and have sombody hold it steady.

Can't wait to give it a try. I will let ya know if it works out, but it may be awhile (or a couple of days) because it is raining like crazy in California. I got to work inbetween rain storms and I have no garage.

thats a good idea, I will take the caliper off and try my air impact wrench at the local gas station. Here is a new question: When I disconnect the brake cable from the caliper, is all the brake fluid going to leak out? Thats probably a stupid question, anyway I guess I need to plug it with something.

Okay, I just tried a drill that had a lot more torque and it still couldn't turn the piston. I had the brake reservoir cap off and the bleeder screw open. There is not enough piston sticking out to grip it with vise grips neither. I am running out of options. If nobody else has ideas, then I think I will put the old brake pads back on and let a mechanic change them. First attempt at changing brake pads = FAILED!!

I tried hooking the brake cube to a drill, but that did not work neither. The hand drill did not have enough torque to make the piston turn. I have an air impact wrench, but my air compressor broke 6 months ago . What else can I try?

I forgot to mention, that I have the master cylinder brake fluid cap off. Should I try opening the bleeder screws too? Won't this scratch the sides of the piston which may let brake fluid leak past the seal?

I have the same problem:banghead: . I have the special cube tool thing that I bought from Napa. It connects to my rachet and then you are just supposed to screw it in while pushing. How hard do you need to push and turn it. My piston will not turn. The tool just keeps on slip off the piston. The piston is supposed to screw in clockwise, correct? I try to hold the caliper up while push and screwing it in. How can I secure the caliper so it stays still while I push and turn with all my might?

I was looking into this a few days ago just for fun. I was considering all the tires sizes available for a 17 inch rim and wanting the widest that I guessed may fit in the wheel well. I came up with 235/40-17. This is the tire size I think I would use if I were to do the 5-lug swap. I didn't want to go too large in diameter because it may make the car really slow. As of right now, I am happy with my pugs with 225/50-15.

Here is some more: EGR valve gasket for Spider only: 14719aa000 How about a PCV Valve that should work with any of our EA82 cars: 11810aa000

These are OEM Part Numbers: Throttle Body Gasket for the Spider only: 16175aa080 "gaskets for the water crossover passage on a spider intake": 14072aa060 (not absolutely sure about this one and you want to order 2 of these)

Time for another update...Has the checked cleared? Have they left TWE yet?

Just checked it out and the splines are still in good condition. I am not sure if the bearings are still good. When pulling up and down or left and right I didn't get any slop at all. When I pulled a lot harder on cv stub, I can hear it move slightly. Couldn't really feel it move, but I could hear a very quiet knock or tap. Should I replace them now or should I not worry about it for another 1 year or so? BTW, is the axle supposed to be loose in the in and out direction when the disc is off? BTW, where can I find a 36mm socket? Sears doesn't carry them. Thanks for all the help thus far.

My factory manual and my haynes said to pull the e-brake cable to install the front brake pads, so I did it without question. BTW, I didn't finish my brake pad install because I needed new shims. I had to special order them from carquest, so I won't get them until Wednesday. Since the castle nut was loose, I pulled the rotor out just for fun. I didn't notice anything wrong, but I will double check the splines tomorrow just in case. How can I check the bearings? How do I know if they are okay or need replacing?

Nevermind, I got it. Sometimes it helps to take a 1 hour break, then to pull harder and curse at the same time. I hope it goes back in a lot easier.

Have they arrived to Folgers yet?

I am changing my brake pads for the first time and I am having trouble removing the parking brake cable. I pulled the U-Clip off, but I cannot get the brake cable off the lever. I been trying to pull the cable out and to the side with my pliers with no luck. I can almost get the passenger side to clear the lever, but the driver side won't budge at all. The parking brake is off by the way. What am I doing wrong? Is there a trick to this? BTW, I found that my axle nut was not even hand tight. Thank God for cotter pins. Now I have an excuse to got to sears and buy a new 1/2 inch drive torque wrench .

The pressure plate shouldn't be a problem anymore since you can get one from clutchnet that is 50% stronger than the XT6 pressure plate for I think $225. And if that isn't enough, you can ask them to make you one of their Laser Cut diaphragms that is supposed to be much stonger. Its all about how much money you got in your wallet now.