Marck

Alright I got it out. It just needed a few more tries. Where can I buy some of this black goop so I can reinstall after I finish taking care of the rust? What is it called?

I have some rust that made its way under the left tailight lens. I am trying to remove the lens so I can work on removing the rust. I removed the 8mm nuts that hold the lens in, but it still won't come out. It seems that there is some kind of black sealing goop that is holding the lens to the body. I tried pushing and prying, but it doesn't seem to want to come out. I don't want to break it. Is there an easier way? Also where can I buy some of this stuff when I am ready to put the lens back on.

I agree that primer is not a sealer, but the Krylon Rust Tough seems to be different from regular primer. It claims that you can prime over metal or rust and it will stop the rust from coming back. Heres a quote from the spray bottle: "Krylon Rust Tough Zinc Rich Primer covers existing rust and stops the formation of future rust. Use Rust Tough Zinc Rish Primer to fill chips and nicks, cover rust, smooth surfaces and improve appearance of topcoat." So does this stuff really work? I might add a couple of coats of paint down the road, but just not any time soon. Maybe some day when scrap enough money together to have the whole car painted. BTW, I have used POR-15 before and its good stuff, but I perfer to use it in hidden locations such as battery trays and under the car.

Has anyone ever used Krylon Rust Tough Primer on there subarus or other cars? Is it recommended? My plan is to remove as much of the rust as possible with a hand sander, then apply some rust converter on the rest, and finally use the Krylon Rust Tough Primer to keep the exposed metal from growing more rust. I was told that primers will not seal the metal like paint does and so moisture will still get through the primer to the metal to cause more rust. So it is important to paint the primed areas. But my plan is to not paint the primed areas because I can care less about looks at this point, and use this Rust Tough Primer as the topcoat. Will it keep the moisture away from the metal and keep rust from coming back?

If you do part it, I'll be interested in the front and rear sway bars with mounting brackets. I think they are both 20mm.

Oceano dunes is about 15 to 20 minutes from where I live.

Cool. Why is the header 'close to equal length' instead of 'equal length'?

Are there any pics of the crossover pipes or downpipes that we can drool over. I can't wait.

I want 1 downpipe and 1 crossover pipe. The downpipe is catless correct? Also, is there a connection for the stock O2 sensor? Will all the heatshield bolt on like normal?

I got a XT6 flywheel, and now I am looking for a XT6 clutch and pressure plate to put on my 87 turbo coupe. What is the best brand to go with for a XT6 clutch kit? Or maybe I should ask which brands I should stay away from.

I know I kind of answered my own question, but I would still like to get everyones opinion on HV oil pumps.

They had no gen 3 or 2 turbo heads. They have I think 1 or maybe it was 2 sets of gen 1 turbo heads.

I am going to be resealing my engine in a few weeks and wanted to ask this question before I bought a new oil pump. The original post about these high volume oil pumps is here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6294&highlight=high+volume+oil+pump I heard that a high volume oil pump is only needed if you are using larger clearances at the bearings, otherwise it robs power. So should I use a HV Oil Pump or should I stick with OEM? Also, after watching "Horsepower TV," I think what we really want is a High Pressure Oil Pump. So if anyone knows where to get a High Pressure Oil Pump then please let me know.

Ok, we all heard this over and over again. The generation 3 heads are supposed to be the least prone to cracking in the exhaust port area, while gen 2 heads are supposed to be second best, and gen 1 the worst. I am not going to talk about how to identify which is which, because I think we all know how by now. (All of the information above, I learned from the USMB.) I just got off the phone with Aluminum Head Rebuilders (http://www.aluminumheads.com/) in Oregon, they told me that there is no difference between the generation 1, 2, and 3 EA82(T) heads. They have dug into who knows how many EA82 and EA82T heads and have not seen any major difference. They said that there is no difference in the material used or the amount used in the exhaust port area. They said that they all have the same chance of cracking in the exhaust port no matter what gen head it is. (None of this is taken to be a quote, just a summary of my understanding from talking on the phone with them.) Now we have conflicting arguments. Is the information that I posted in the first paragraph fact or myth? Who is right? What we need is real proof. Is there any documents from Subaru telling the difference in the different generation heads?

I live in Nipomo.

Which years did turbo cars come with Gen 3 heads?

So is there any plans to make this happen? Sign me up if there is a list going.

Are you making tranny mounts only, or are you also making engine mounts?

Hey Subarutex, What is the duration and lift of those delta cams? The specs that were posted on another thread on the meassage board said that they were .42 inch lift and 260 duration for the mild torque grind. But when I called delta cams a couple of days ago for some more info, they told me that they were .386 inch lift with 260 duration. They said that they don't make a cam with .42 inch lift for the EA82T. So if you can let me know what the lift is, that would help me settle this confusion. Thanks. Curious...are you running Cu HG?

Also be good to stock hoses such as the PCV hoses ($16-30 bucks a piece at the dealer), vacuum hoses, little coolant hoses for the intake manifolds, that $30 coolant hose with the heat shield that sits under the turbo, turbo and exhaust gaskets, maybe a turbo rebuild kit, waterpump, oil pump...

according to my 87 FSM the cover is called the 'oil separator cover' and the gasket is called the 'oil separator cover gasket'. Hope that helps.

You are the one who outbid me on those generation three heads :madder:. I recognize your username. I have been looking for a set of non cracked generation three heads since September. And you had the nerve to bid when there was less than 30 seconds left on the clock :madder: :madder:. Before you showed up during the last 30 seconds, I was the only bidder. I tried to place another bid, but it wasn't high enough. So then I was going to make a much larger bid....but it was too late . Maybe some day I can forgive and forget, but as of now I am very PISSED OFF !! :madder: :madder: :madder: :madder: :madder: (I had to let out some steam) Now my poor soob will sit until summer or maybe longer....:boohoo: Alright, I am done whining for today...

Just curious....What would happen if I were to rev an EA82T pass the redline? Or what I mean is what kind of damage can I expect if I were to rev the engine too high (what are the weak points)? How high can I rev a stock EA82T without any damage? -Mark

Wow, great pics. Thanks for all the feedback. I have always liked the A-Pillar gauge mounts. Skip, if it is not too much trouble can I get the part number for the CRX A-Pillar gauge mount. Thanks a bunch!

My friend gave me his old boost gauge and I am trying to figure out where and how I am going to mount it. I would like to get an A-pillar gauge mount, but I can't find one that would fit my car. Does anybody know where I can find an A-pillar gauge mount that will fit our late 80s sedans/wagons/coupes? Also like to see pics of your mounted gauges (boost, air/fuel, etc) to get ideas. Thanks in advance.