this is really weird i started up my car an 80 gl 1600 4wd and it was running good and everything was working fine. then all of a sudden my tach starts acting funny the engine is at an idle and its reading 5k so i went to rev it up and it started running really rough. i went to shut it off but the engine kept running. it finally died when it ran out of fuel so i took the negative battery terminal off and thought it might reset it. now it will start up for a second and die and the volt meter won't show anything untill you start the car. what the heck is going on? :confused:

i would appreciate any response especially a quick one please and thank you. i have to get this car going today

Edited June 22, 201213 yr by mikaleda

phew!! it was just a blown fuse now its running fine. but what i don't get is why did my car keep running even though i shut it off? it wasn't dieseling because it was cold. the fuse that blew was a ignition gauge fuel fuse. that is the fuse i spliced my fuel pump power from and yes i did it properly i used a beldin wire splicer. it is not shorting out i checked that first.

I am guessing the trouble had to do with the external voltage regulator somehow. I know the engine can still have ignition power getting to it under certain conditions of the regulator, even though the ignition switch is turned off.

this style ignition is different than any i've seen before there is a a box on top of the coil and one next to it. the one next to it looks like the voltage regulator and the one on top has something to do with the ignition modulation i think is what it says?

Weird tach and not shutting off is a problem with the FP relay or "rev sensor" as it's reffered to in the FSM.

 

Replace the Fuel pump relay, it's above the hood latch pull.

 

Rewire the fuel pump back to stock. The way you have it is dangerous in an accident.

my fuel pump is running through the fusible link and a fuse in the fuse box so i'm not to worried about having problems with safety believe me its better than it was (it was running directly off of the positive battery terminal with no fuse at all and running through the fire wall with no grommet). and once i replaced the fuse that blew it ran just fine i think the problems all came down to the passing light relay when i plugged that in everything started messing up. i will do a search for the rev sensor that you mentioned for future reference. there is no relays above the hood latch i looked none to be seen

i found my rev sensor, i thought it was a buzzer or something at first. does anyone know what one of these costs? i would like to put back to stock if cheap enough, if not i'm not going to bother with it it works just fine like it is and at least its running through a fuse. i have to buy struts, brakes, caliper, Manuel choke, and a radiator yet so this is not at the top of my priorities.

oh ya i looked up the fuel pump relay on rockauto.com and the closest thing they have is a electronic fuel pump inertia switch. it looks nothing like what i am looking at on my car and they want 80 bucks for it if that is what a rev sensor is going to cost me i like it just fine the way it is.

Edited June 23, 201213 yr by mikaleda