Just curious as to why you went with the "lightened" crank pulley. Aren't these pulleys also harmonic balancers so wouldn't you be throwing the dynamic balance off? Also looks like the new pulley has a larger o.d. so you'll be driving all your accessories faster.

 

It's a damper pulley not harmonic

 

Also the pulley is the same diameter as the stock, this has been beaten around the bush so many times.

take the reluctor gear see the two holes in it use a 8-125 tap and tap those two holes and then you can use a standard puller on it to remove it. When the crank gets worn i peen the end slightly to make it so the pully is tight on crank agian is arkaic but works also i peen the keyway slot to make key a tight fitt agian. And titen the poop outa it with some locktite also while your there check the thrust berring in crank have had a few with bad thrust lately worse on standard cars

 

I never had to tap anything before but I got both, anything special I need to do when tapping the holes?

Got the sprocket off.. hmm it seems the wear on the key caused it to lift up out of the keyway.. from what it seems like it's fine.. Here are some quick shots, just waiting on the dealer to email me about the sprocket to pick up today.

 

Ended up using my pickle fork to get the sprocket off I can take this other stuff back.

 

 

I think driver side head timing is off by one?

 

Well I got everything on.. but the ECU went crazy.. but this is not the first time, I'am very close to buying a spare on ebay..

 

Some of the weirdness that will happen..

 

Reset the ECU

 

misfire 3 & 4 almost back to back..

 

Reset again.

 

misfire 3&4 wont show up again almost at all.. I think the longest time was 8 months..

 

Now today granted I let the battery sit for a long time but I had to use my jump pack but I had the cable off the whole time I was working on the car.. Anyways I must of been getting some serious detonation I thought it was the valve hitting the piston but I was 110% sure I finally got the marks lined up, because I know before the passenger head was one tooth off.

 

Anyways I had the sound on idle, then that went away then it would only sound when giving it throttle. Then it stopped period.. Also the first start I did in like 3 weeks it ran super rich but then again I resetted the ECU as well.

 

I forgot to take a picture of the woodruff key slot but it's very good I caught it in time, it could of been a lot worst then what happened.

 

And the other thing was it also caused my knock sensor light to come on which I knew was not a real code because I replaced that sensor a year ago, and before the crank wobble I never had a knock sensor code and I did not drive the car the while 3 weeks, I cleared the codes, the knock sensor one came right back.. but after more driving I cleared the codes again and this time it never came back....

 

The only code I should be getting now is for the 2nd o2 sensor because I bent the tip when trying to unscrew it out.

 

 

Hmm perhaps piston slap? Maybe I never heard it before because the timing was off by 1 tooth and 2 teeth on the drivers side, so the combustion chamber pressures are higher now?

Edited October 6, 201213 yr by 1-3-2-4

One thing iv'e leaned is the heavyer the crank pully the more tourque the engine makes i add wheight to mine to make it heavyer. And is why the 2.5 use's a heavy pully and the 2.2 use's a light pully. A lighter pully will increase hp but reduce toruque.

I really can't tell the difference

I'm shure you cant tell but when i'm turning 4 31 paddle tires you notice even a small drop in toruque we learned thiss when we lightened flywheels.and ended up with a car that stalls when you let clutch out because there was not enuff rotating mass