This is the second time I have encountered this. I run out of gas, pour a gallon or two in the tank, and kill the battery trying to get it to start. This isn't frequent mind you, last time this happened was middle of last year.

 

I have recharged the battery for an round of trying to get it to start. I used some starter fluid in the carb but don't even get a chug attempting to start. Last time I was in this pickle, GD was out helping getting it started and discovered bad spark cables after I had replaced the fuel filter at the tank. Replaced then, bit of starter fluid and fired up with little coaxing. The cables could not be bad again, I checked.

 

Since this is the second time, was sort of side affects of running out of gas causes? I really didn't even run out of gas this time, I stalled taking off in an incline but must have low enough to cause this.

 

I am leaning toward electrical problems but why it rears it's head whenever I happen to run out of gas is baffling. What sort of troubleshooting should I attempt? Can I get a voltage reading from the solenoid with the key in the "on" position and work my way from there?

if it doesnt try to start with starter fluid then id check into spark first.

I am leaning towards that as well. It's too late tonight to mess with it as I have no garage. I want to get a checklist going to start with in the morning.

 

Solenoid

Distributer (cap and rotor was replaced same time as fuel filter)

Spark at plugs

 

Is there any sort of carb screw settings I should attempt?

Did you replace the fuel filter up front too? EA81 W/mega miles on it? I"m leanin towards the fuel pump if you haven't done it.....

Filter up font was good when I checked it as well as the fuel pump was delivering fuel properly. I will rule out the electrical before I get under the car again, smelled like gas for hours when I changed the filter.

I just looked at your post again and missed the part about nothing when you put start fluid in it...sorry.Well maybe the switch on the ign.is going bad { The Electric part} I know they go bad if they have alot of use on em...

how fast is it killing your battery? try a jump start or a known fresh/good battery. if it fires right up, or at least fairly easily, that would point me towards weak batt/alt. A crappy fully charged battery isnt going to give you much starting power.

Check your fuses and fusible links first.  It would suck to go through a bunch of diagnosis to find that it was a fuse.  It's been a while since I had my '84s, but my '81 has three inline fuses up under the  dash by the steering column in addition to the fuse block.  I believe at least one of them is part of ignition control.

Fuses and links are good and look surprisingly new. Solenoid didn't test that well plus the secondary coil connection was corroded bad. Replaced it and still not starting. Checked the cap and rotor, those are still good.

 

Took all freaking day to do the solenoid; 1 each way for a bus (no one is around for rides anymore), the positive post on the coil shears off while attempting to tighten, another 2 hours to replace it, rained, and still nothing.

 

Tomorrow I will work my way to the spark plugs and check spark there. Really hard to do with one person. Will have to see if I can kidnap a buddy and tie him to the bumper and troubleshoot with me.

 

Spark plugs are the last thing I can check, if they check good then I am out of ideas.

Had it mentioned to me that I might not have enough compression and while trying to start it, the fuel washed away the oil lining the cylinder. I replaced the plugs out of principle and dropped a few ounces of oil down the cylinder. Still didn't get it to start though. 

 

I checked the gap specs and saw that it is 1mm to 1.1mm. The plugs I pulled out where at 1.28mm - 1.3mm. That is what I put the new ones unfortunately. I need to charge the battery back up so when that is done, I will set the right gap and try again.

Edited March 17, 201313 yr by 83pickle